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How much would you pay for your PERFECT Cue?
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al-capool
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How much would you pay for your PERFECT Cue? - 06-08-2015, 12:07 PM

1. If you had more than enough money, how much would you be ready to spend for a Cue, which would be in everyway perfect for YOU?

Less than 2'000 $
2'000 - 3'000 $
3'000 - 4'000 $
4'000 - 5'000 $
More than 5'000 $
Even more than 10'000 $


2. Who would you like to make or made that cue?


3. What materials and what kind of inlays (if any) would you like?


4. What kind of shaft/s should YOUR cue have?


JMO:
1. 5'000 $ or more
2. Thomas Wayne / Ernie Gutierez / Bob Manzino / Gus or Barry Szamboti
3. For ex. A very dark Ebony forearm and buttsleeve with well figured Amboyna burl boxes. Framed by silver, black & red veneers and some real intrigating tribal scrimshaw works on smaller boxes made of E.I. inside the Amboyna Burl boxes.
4. 3 very good maple LD-Shafts (two Shafts 12,5mm and one 10,75mm)

Last edited by al-capool; 06-10-2015 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Some additional infos...
  
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Bavafongoul
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06-08-2015, 06:54 PM

Not too difficult for me........flat ivory joint 3/8x10......fancy collars.......cue butt weight 14.5 ozs......short ivory butt cap.........shafts weighing 4 ozs.....3.8 min....4.2 max.......but perfect would be 4 ozs (without any brass....flat faced wood shafts).......ivory ferrules (7/8 - 1" long).......original Moori Brown tips (medium).......

BEM or Curly Maple Forearm......Honey - Golden Wheat color tone.........the veneers are.......something doesn't sound right.....about the inlays, the ones I want to use are.......know what....the specs is all anyone needs.

The actual design is mine and I'll probably have this cue built after I heal from the shoulder surgery I underwent last week.....needless to say, it would...or will....be a really handsome cue.......but first I have to find out if the EP cue overseas is going to make to our shores this December for the Mosconi Cup....that is my dream cue.......18.5 ozs........same as Jive's.

My dream cue-makers are Joel Hercek, Ed Prewitt and Danny Tibbits.......a Barry Szamboti is sure calling me but 2 fer 1 is hard to pass up.......for the price of a Barry, I could get 2 of my 3 dream cue-maker cues.......shop smart and it could be a 3:1.......Yeah, I'll stick with the status quo for dream cue-makers.

Matt B.


"My Pool Cues"

*Bob Owen Custom- Level 8 (s/d 4-24-16) - Flat Ivory Joint
*J. Rauenzahn Custom - Level 6 (s/d 5-4-16) - Flat Ivory Joint

*J. Rauenzahn Custom - Level 8 (s/d 2-23-15) - Flat Ivory Joint
*Ed Prewitt Custom '05 - Level 8 - Flat Ivory Joint
*Bob Owen Custom - Level 8 (s/d 5-4-14) - Flat Ivory Joint
*Tim Scruggs Custom (9-6-95) Level 7 - Flat Ivory Joint
*Runde Schon '85 Custom "R" Series (1 of 1)
*Palmer (Original) - '72 (All Cocobolo Wood)
  
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Straightpool_99
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06-08-2015, 09:17 PM

Easy, there's no way I'm paying more than 2000 dollars for a tapered piece of wood. I've owned "the perfect cue" several times before, and my preferences tend to change, while the cue stays the same.

I own close to my ideal cue right now. I have a 40 dollar butt with ebony and straight maple with points (what a steal that was). I have 2 predators and a custom shaft for it, and the original which has a lovely feel. Too bad the deflection is on the high side. If I wanted to change the cue it would be with a slightly hollowed out shaft that was the exact same as the original one (apart from that one thing). Even though I have several shafts, I could sell them tomorrow and get by with just the original, but I like experimenting and I can afford to keep them.

Paying 5000 or even 2000 dollars for a cue is just absurd! How could I ever play with a cue like that? You can't turn your back on it or even play without fearing for the finish etc. I guess if I had unlimited funds and just didn't care it would be allright, but saving up for it? NO way. A cue is a tool. It should have a good balance and ideally good shaftwood, although even mediocre or poor shaftwood gets the job done. The biggest difference is in the feel, anyway.

I have a (trunk)cue I bought on ebay many years ago for 20 dollars. It's a chineese cue that has a soft plastic ferrule and an extremely lightweight shaft I'm not even sure is maple. I put a cheap layered tip on it, and guess what?`I play almost exactly the same with it as I do with my 700 dollar (now retired) cue. It has even stayed straight, lol. I don't use it because the joint snags on the hairs in my beard, lol.

I have to laugh at the people staring at their cues with a magnifying glass, endlessly rolling them to check for near invisible warping etc. Then they play pool on 8 foot tables with bucket pockets A decent player can play snooker on a 12 footer with a cue that is nearly banana shaped. The margin of error in that game is extremely small compared to pool, unless you've tried you just won't get it. A tiny taper roll or even slight lifting of the ferrule MAKES NOT ONE BIT OF DIFFERENCE playing pool! All of that obessing over straightness, grain tightness, perfect inlays etc is just neurotic behavior and it makes the person look extremely silly, especially if he or she can't run 3 balls.

Last edited by Straightpool_99; 06-08-2015 at 09:32 PM.
  
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