10 Ball Ghost/10 Foot Diamond

[stan shuffett]

https://vimeo.com/69786139

During this race with the 10 Ball Ghost I had only two 1-line visuals.

For the CTE 2-line visuals I had only 2 Bs and the remainder of shots were A or C, on the thick side of course.

97% of all shots were CTE shots to include breaking.

Stan Shuffett

 

[stan shuffett]

Here is somthing to think about Stan. Lets say in a race to 10, I shot A/C 's 60% of the time, B's 35% of the time. what would that tell you about how I was playing?

First impression: table size matters

On a 10 footer you'd be in a little trouble. You'd have to have a better cue ball.

Your percentages might be okay on other size tables, but I am not sure about the transfer. Gary's stats may shed some additional light on your percentages.

A huge note for me on the 10 footer was a little bit of an eye opener.......I was forced to be more precise in every area, particularly with my angles, because it seemed as though everything was automatically 25% tougher at a minimum. In contrast to my 9 footer, I realize that my play has not been as purposefully precise as it could be. LESSON: Table size should NOT matter concerning effort., EVERY SHOT SHOULD GET 100%!.

Stan Shuffett

 

[stan shuffett]

Personal grip info for the session

I could divide my shots into 3 major categories.

1. NINE BALL SHOTS ( Follow, Draw, Spin)

2. PUNCH SHOTS ( @ or near the core of the cue ball) ..typically at least 1/2 tip close to CB core

3. FINESSE SHOTS ( includes many shots with total energy of CB OB that can total up to about 2.5 tables lengths roll)

1-Primarily, my 9-ball shots consist of follow and draw shots where I have to really accelerate the cue above or below the core of the OB. The 9-ball shots require more backswing and follow-through. For my follow shots my cue pivots on my index finger with a definite opening and and closing of my hand. For my draw shots, my cue pivots on my my middle finger with the same opening and closing of my hand. The shift to my middle finger eliminates the problems that the index and thumb can cause as a result of the negative aspects of draw. At finish, I definitely intend to contact my side with my grip hand. I use a light to medium grip for follow and the same for draw shots
Spins shots can fall into this category.
**The index finger and middle finger lead the way for this complete category for these somewhat wristy-like shots


2. My punch shots occur for those shots that require only a strike at or near the CB core. In other words, the tip does not need to impart real spin so my stroke is more compact. I have less backswing and less follow-through. My grip tension is medium for these shots with very little grip hand opening and closing. The compact, very controlled punch stroke allows for great stroke structure control and optimal cueing accuracy verses the the 9 ball stroke that has more variables. Punch shots can be a great addition to anyone's arsenal but the key is to recognize when the punch can be used. I punched many shots in my 10 ball set.

3. Rather than the light grip approach for finesse shots I use a medium tensed-up grip that enhances my control of these type shots. Obviously, I use a much, much shorter backswing with a mostly closed grip hand. I get great cue control with this approach. I think of finesse shots as those shots that require less energy than that of a 2 rail lag shot. The KEY is that I simply roll the cue ball for most of these type shots. The added tension for these shots can encourage a lot of overall stability in one's stance.

** Concerning grip. I try to keep everything very straight for nine ball shots. I have learned what straight means for me. If I were to open my hand, my thumb and fingers would point straight downward. For punch and finesse shots my wrist angle may vary typically with my wrist slightly in the outward position but not always.

LESSON: It is OKAY to adjust your grip tension and your grip from shot to shot. The casual observer may not notice my adjustments but I can assure you the adjustments are key to my higher levels of performance. My grip tensions range from light to medium. I mostly use about 4 grips for my play but I do not limit myself to any hand configuration during play.

You must learn to let your gripping just happen during play. The sooner you can gain specific knowledge and awareness of what makes your grip tick the better off you 'll be.
A top pro once told Stevie Moore that the whole game is in the grip....

I spend a lot time discussing the visual side so I thought I would share a little bit of the physical side that I deem to be very important.

Stan Shuffett

 

[IamCalvin06]

Grip Fundamentals

And once again Stan solidifies himself as a top notch instructor. I have never met Stan only talked to him on occasion over the phone or thru emails regarding PRO/ONE.

I must say though i am truly impressed with his knowledge and teaching ability. Freddy The Beard has addressed this issue about the GRIP. He says its a fundamental "that is overlooked and poorly taught by many." I believe him too. I've had lessons from pros, and so called instructors who's only lesson i took with me was to not pay for something up front. Stroke coaches who never touched on the subject of grip other than telling me where to grip it etc.

Anyways, Stan is correct and Freddy says the same thing. Follow shots the cue pivots along the index, stun the middle finger, and draw the ring and pinky. It makes sense bc once u follow thru if you have the grip correct the tip is still pointing at the area u intended to hit the CB.

If you wanna be an average player with an average stroke by all means be a robot and grip it exactly the same way, but when you need the stroke to move the CB somewhere don't be surprised when you hit an 8ft stop shot instead of a table length draw!

Stan you prove to me once again that i want to learn pool from someone who truly knows the game.