10 foot table too fast

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pw98

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I have a 100 year old 6 let Brunswick Regent with Simonis 860 that is relatively new. If you do the standard speed test shot it goes 6.5 table lengths with a firm (not even close to as hard as possible, as this would launch the ball off the table) stroke. Also, if you kick the cueball hard into the rail it hops and goes airborn.

The question is what would need to be done to make the table play at a more 'normal' pace. The way it is now you have to play totally differently (take 3-4 rail positions when 1-2 rail should be possible) than any other table I've played on, even the faster tables at local pool halls w/ artemis.

I would like the rails to play 'normal' (for artemis at least) and be able to put 760 on it because as it stands now its hard to draw the CB without being very close to the OB. I have played on a 10 footer at a friends house that has 760 and normal rail speed and it played good and was worth playing on, something my 10 footer is not.

It is probably worth noting that the house it is located at is about 40 feet away from Lake Erie which makes for a very humid environment and I think this has something to do with the cloth being hard to draw on and the rails being so fast.
 
Check on the height of the rail in relation to the cue ball. I had a table many years ago that I had to put a spacer under the rails to lift it up a little. It stopped the cue ball from flying off the table.
 
I'm with the nose height is wrong crowd. My first table had the wrong profile cushions or something and it put the nose a little low and balls would hop like that.

Table does sound damn fast though. Is it near a heat source
 
A reasonable fix, until you can get the problem fixed correctly:
Loosen the rail bolts, and place shims under the rails - strips of playing cards should do.
Set the nose height somewhere close to 1 7/16", and tighten the rails.
 
bradsh98 said:
A reasonable fix, until you can get the problem fixed correctly:
Loosen the rail bolts, and place shims under the rails - strips of playing cards should do.
Set the nose height somewhere close to 1 7/16", and tighten the rails.
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I bet it's a T-rail table and the cushions were replaced without corrections made to the subrails. Good luck raising those rails with shims placed under them😅
 
realkingcobra said:
I bet it's a T-rail table and the cushions were replaced without corrections made to the subrails. Good luck raising those rails with shims placed under them😅
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That's exactly what I believe to be the case. But, there should be enough clearance on the rail bolt holes to get the height adjustment needed.. I've had to do it before as a stop-gap solution, until the customer was ready to have me perform the correct fix.
 
bradsh98 said:
That's exactly what I believe to be the case. But, there should be enough clearance on the rail bolt holes to get the height adjustment needed.. I've had to do it before as a stop-gap solution, until the customer was ready to have me perform the correct fix.
Click to expand...
I've run across so many that have had the rail bolt holes hugged out so the rail bolt will line up its a joke.
 
UPDATE: I played on the table again last weekend for the first time during the winter and it played a lot better. The cueball still jumped if it was hit really fast into the rail but it was playing about 4.5 table lengths and overall was playable. The cueball wasnt jumping on normal shots as before. I suppose the high humidity in the summer supercharged the rubber? And yes it is a t-rail table I believe.
 
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