11.75 vs 12.75?

BRKNRUN said:
IMO....your Golf comparison is a bit off.....I think the reason Pro's use blades...aka (forged) irons is for consistency.....Cast clubs have hot spots. A pro wants to know that when they hit the 8 iron the ball is going to go an exact distance every time....cast clubs can tend to vary from 5 to 15 yards.....and a ball that flies 15 yards too far can end up being a disaster for that hole.

IF cast were consistent....pros would use them all day because they are a bit more forgiving on mi shits.

There are pros that use cavity back blades....but they are still forged...The difference between the two then becomes personal preference...I played with "muscle back" blades that were just as forgiving as the cavity back "forged" blades....I preferred looking at a smaller "thinner" blade than the thicker "bulky" looking blades.

As far as pool shaft size goes....IMO...I really feel it is just personal preference as far as shaft size goes...what fits your hand?....similar to that of using different size grips on a golf club...what fits your hand....I feel the butt end size should also be determined by what fits your hand.

I think the comparison of shaft playability is more in the whip vs stiffness of the shaft....again similar to golf club shafts....

In golf...ideally you want as much whip as you can control in a golf club...you will get more distance....but you give up some control and "consitency"....The stiffer the shaft, the more controle...but you lose distance if you don't have the swing speed to accommodate.

I think the pool cue shaft is similar in that you (I) seem to get more CB action from a whippy shaft, but I lose control...the stiffer shaft requires a much better stroke but you (I) gain a much greater controle over the CB.

The trick is to find that happy medium of a cue set up that fits your own personal natural stroke....That will be the cue (and cue maker) that you think is the best in the world.

For me...it is a BCM cue....his specific set up fits my hands and has just the right amount of stiffness and balance in the cue that fits my personal stroke.

Personally I prefer a tip size of about 12.5:smile:
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Great analysis. I have thought about getting a 12.75 shaft from an online dealer and requesting it be 12.25mm, but finding that place online is the problem. I have not seen a place online that offers this service to a 314^2 shaft. Would taking a 314^2 down to 12.25 take away from performance in any way?
 
travis13 said:
Great analysis. I have thought about getting a 12.75 shaft from an online dealer and requesting it be 12.25mm, but finding that place online is the problem. I have not seen a place online that offers this service to a 314^2 shaft. Would taking a 314^2 down to 12.25 take away from performance in any way?
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I don't know...but I would tend to think that the thinner you make the shaft the more whip it will get...that may change the performance...(the type of shaft taper would probably play a role in how much added whip the shaft will have as you make it thinner)

Example....A 13" pro taper turned from 13mm to 12mm would probably pick up quite a bit of whip.....a 8" pro taper or even a conical taper turned from 13mm to 12mm may not pick up as much added whip.

My guess is you will need to purchase the shaft and take it to a local cue maker to have him turn it down for you...

If it were me...I would take it down in small increments....from 12.75 to 12.5 and see how you like it...

You can always take more off...but it is pretty hard to add it back on.
 
As stated several times already, no matter what dia tip the contact surface area is the same given identical radius tips.

A smaller tip IMO only helps to pinpoint where the contact point is. If your stroke is perfect you're more likely to hit within a 1/2 mm or less where you want, no matter the diameter. It just takes practice with a given diameter to hit the spot.

Shaft taper and how much flex you want determines the possible end results regarding tip diameter. Ratta mentioned LD shafts with these smaller tips. LD's are stiffer in their construction from joint to tip which allows for the smaller diameters without sacrificing stiffness. Pool shaft tapers for a few decades have been of the "PRO Taper" which inherently is a weaker with its long section with no tapering, than say the traditional 3C European and I believe Snooker tapers. Snooker players play with 8-11mm 3C players play with 10-12mm generally speaking.

If you take it to the extreme, and you had a 20mm tip it would be difficult to scratch on a straight draw shot cause the tip can't get too low, the bottom of the tip is scrapping the table. If you could possibly have a tip of 3mm you would have pinpoint accuracy "lining up the contact point" but your delivery must be exceptional. No mistakes allowed or a miscue. Most of us aren't that perfect. The tip is going up down right left, to some degree between .1mm for a Pro - 13mm for a Beginner.
 
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