1340 Geared Head Jet Lathe

N

nucues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a 1340 GHB jet lathe that I won't be able to use where I'm moving.I would like to make a deal for some cash and either a Hightower Deuxe or a Uniqe Products Cuemaker.I bought this lathe brand new last June for 5000.00.It will come with the stand I built.Sorry but I can't post pictures because I had the power shut off in the old shop.I would be willing to deliver within a 400 mile radius of Galesburg IL. Thanks Steve Klapp
 
This lathe is now the newest toy in my shop. I don't plan to do cue work with it, but just use it for metal work. Steve hauled it all the way down here and helped set it up. I have been using a pretty small Atlas lathe for doing my metal work and it does not do the job easy enough on larger stuff, or cut thread easily. So far I have played around with it cutting some threads. Now I need to buy some more tooling. Most of my tooling is 1/4" and this machine uses 5/8" tooling. I am trying to decide whether to buy a Quick Change tool post so I can use smaller tooling or just buy some 5/8" tooling. What do you guys think, since I will probably only use it for metal work? Quick Change or just load up my four way tool post with a Boring Bar, Right Hand, Cut Off Tool and Threading bits?
 
cueman said:
This lathe is now the newest toy in my shop. I don't plan to do cue work with it, but just use it for metal work. Steve hauled it all the way down here and helped set it up. I have been using a pretty small Atlas lathe for doing my metal work and it does not do the job easy enough on larger stuff, or cut thread easily. So far I have played around with it cutting some threads. Now I need to buy some more tooling. Most of my tooling is 1/4" and this machine uses 5/8" tooling. I am trying to decide whether to buy a Quick Change tool post so I can use smaller tooling or just buy some 5/8" tooling. What do you guys think, since I will probably only use it for metal work? Quick Change or just load up my four way tool post with a Boring Bar, Right Hand, Cut Off Tool and Threading bits?
Click to expand...

Everybody gets used to doing things one way and that is what they are comfortable with. I, myself, couldn't consider a lathe without a quick change tool post. The Chinese ones cost so little and work plenty good enough. Going from a right hand cutter, then changing to a thread cutter and then changing to a cut-off tool takes maybe 3 or 4 seconds each. I feel it is one of the three best convenience and time savers I've ever done to any of my lathes.
Dick
 
hi chris, great new lathe way to go. i feel quick change is the only way to go,i use discount tools all the time,also like enco vary much. grab a new drill chuck,and boring bar set well your at it, good luck and have fun. darrin
 
Jet

Chris,
Great addition to the shop, I'm envious. I have a 1340 belt drive Jet and when I get my next lathe, it will be your model. I'd go with the quick change post.
Don't know if it had a dro, but that's money that will pay for it's self over and over again. If you plan on doing much threading, I'd get a micrometer stop, or better yet make one. Discount is a good company to deal with. I've always been happy with what I've gotten from them.
 
I agree on the QC. I use Phase II, which is definitely no Aloris, but perhaps slightly better than the other cheaper imports.

Kelly
 
cutter said:
Chris,
Great addition to the shop, I'm envious. I have a 1340 belt drive Jet and when I get my next lathe, it will be your model. I'd go with the quick change post.
Don't know if it had a dro, but that's money that will pay for it's self over and over again. If you plan on doing much threading, I'd get a micrometer stop, or better yet make one. Discount is a good company to deal with. I've always been happy with what I've gotten from them.
Click to expand...
Have you installed a DRO yourself? How much trouble is it to do?
 
jet lathe

Chris,
It's not hard at all. I stole a sony large mill dro off of ebay and did the installation myself. The y axis sort of sticks out the back, but who cares. Just have to tap some holes in the back of the bed. Hardest part was making sure you get the scales level. I believe the jet already has some holes in the cross saddle for the y axis. Back when I got mine there weren't any of the inexpensive imports available. If I do another one, I'll definitely go with the imports. For about 600-700 dollars you can't go wrong. It sure beats staring at the dials and thinking about backlash.
There's lots of tricks you can do with them, I'm sure some of the real machinist on the forum can give you some tricks of the trade.
 
Thanks for all the info on the DRO.
Has anyone ever sheared a shear pin on the lead screw coupling?
Does anyone have any good suggestions for changing it out?
I spend hours just getting the sheared off pin out of the hole. I have never seen anything pressed in that tight.
Does anyone want to sell their old 4 way tool post cheap that they took off of theirs and replaced it with the quick change? I won't be using this lathe much and if I calculated everything right with two 4 way tool posts I can load the two with just about everything I need to do small metal work.
One for turning, threading and parting off. And another for turning, boring internal threading and parting.
 
Last edited:
cutter said:
Chris,
It's not hard at all. I stole a sony large mill dro off of ebay and did the installation myself. The y axis sort of sticks out the back, but who cares. Just have to tap some holes in the back of the bed. Hardest part was making sure you get the scales level. I believe the jet already has some holes in the cross saddle for the y axis. Back when I got mine there weren't any of the inexpensive imports available. If I do another one, I'll definitely go with the imports. For about 600-700 dollars you can't go wrong. It sure beats staring at the dials and thinking about backlash.
There's lots of tricks you can do with them, I'm sure some of the real machinist on the forum can give you some tricks of the trade.
Click to expand...


Now I know why I was told to keep an eye on you......
 
1340 jet

Chris,
I have had the privilege of changing out the shear pin. Mine was made of brass and wasn't that interesting in coming out either. A spare had come in the tool box that came with the lathe. You can get spare and any other parts directly from Jet (WMH tool group) The number should be with the manual if you have one.
 
cueman said:
Thanks for all the info on the DRO.
Has anyone ever sheared a shear pin on the lead screw coupling?
Does anyone have any good suggestions for changing it out?
I spend hours just getting the sheared off pin out of the hole. I have never seen anything pressed in that tight.
Does anyone want to sell their old 4 way tool post cheap that they took off of theirs and replaced it with the quick change? I won't be using this lathe much and if I calculated everything right with two 4 way tool posts I can load the two with just about everything I need to do small metal work.
One for turning, threading and parting off. And another for turning, boring internal threading and parting.
Click to expand...

You may already know this, but the pin is tapered. I pulled out the lead screw, and examined the sheared off pieces to make sure which one was the smaller diameter/larger diameter to make sure when you line it up in the coupler correctly and tap out in the right direction. Once lined up it should tap out fairly easily with a punch. I may have tapped out the small broke off pieces in the coupler first before I put the lead screwn back in to tap out the larger piece.

If you did not get a 4 way tool post from ToolJunkie, I might part with mine.

Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
You may already know this, but the pin is tapered. I pulled out the lead screw, and examined the sheared off pieces to make sure which one was the smaller diameter/larger diameter to make sure when you line it up in the coupler correctly and tap out in the right direction. Once lined up it should tap out fairly easily with a punch. I may have tapped out the small broke off pieces in the coupler first before I put the lead screwn back in to tap out the larger piece.

If you did not get a 4 way tool post from ToolJunkie, I might part with mine.

Kelly
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips. Your PM box is full.
I took some measurements from my tool post so you can see if yours is the same. I am hoping to find an exact match.
Mine is about 2.6" tall
the bottom solid part that the tool bit sets on is .770"
The tool gap is 1.040"
The top hole is .700"
The bottom hole is .945"
Thanks,
Chris
 
cutter said:
Chris,
I have had the privilege of changing out the shear pin. Mine was made of brass and wasn't that interesting in coming out either. A spare had come in the tool box that came with the lathe. You can get spare and any other parts directly from Jet (WMH tool group) The number should be with the manual if you have one.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I did not get a spare pin or a manual so I turned a brass pin. Was your pin tapered?
 
1340 jet

Chris,
I sheared a brass pin in the feed shaft. I checked my manual and it's listed at 6x28mm. I don't remember it being tapered. I do have a large steel tapered pin, part number GHB1340-61ab, but that is not designed to shear and goes into a bracket. wmh tool phone number is 800 274 6846 or (6848).
 
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