1940 - 1959 Brunswick tables

N

NYC

Member
Which older models of Brunswick tables are commercial grade tables? I grew up in NYC and spent a lot of time playing on Brunswick Anniversary and Centennial tables. The Anniversary models came in 3 different trim styles IIRC and the plain Jane table that had no chrome adorning it, was still a great table to play on. The Centennial table did cost more from all of the shiny trim pieces on it and some told me the Centennial rails were made from a better quality wood, as another reason why the table cost more. I don't know if this is true or not, hopefully a few of the folks who have worked on these tables can shed some light on this.

Brunswick made some home tables like the Moderna and the Sportsman are these tables as robust as the Centennial/Anniversary tables are? I have been looking for a 9 ft table and wouldn't mind finding an older Brunswick for the job. I have taken apart my share of GCs in the past, but have never worked on 1 of the older Brunswick tables. Are the K66 cushions correct for these tables? TIA
 
NYC said:
Sure a nifty ball washer you fabricated up there rexus31.
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Thanks.
NYC said:
A 7 1/4" car buffer motor being used?
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No sir. Full build thread here: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/gold-crown-ball-polisher.538320/
NYC said:
Here are the specs for the Moderne table made from 1937 to 1946. 1" slate same as the Anniversary and Centennial slates were.

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The slate is just a small portion of it. It's what's underneath it (frame) that counts.
 
NYC said:
Which older models of Brunswick tables are commercial grade tables? I grew up in NYC and spent a lot of time playing on Brunswick Anniversary and Centennial tables. The Centennial table did cost more from all of the shiny trim pieces on it and some told me the Centennial rails were made from a better quality wood, as another reason why the table cost more. I don't know if this is true or not, hopefully a few of the folks who have worked on these tables can shed some light on this.

Brunswick made some home tables like the Moderna and the Sportsman are these tables as robust as the Centennial/Anniversary tables are? I have been looking for a 9 ft table and wouldn't mind finding an older Brunswick for the job. I have taken apart my share of GCs in the past, but have never worked on 1 of the older Brunswick tables. Are the K66 cushions correct for these tables? TIA
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Yes the Centennial came standard with Rosewood rail caps, while the Moderne, Anniversary and Sportsman had Walnut rails. (pre 1953) Depending on the version, all those rails we’re interchangeable. Upgraded Rosewood rails could be ordered. We have a few forum members with Rosewood rails on their Anniversary.
 
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The RW rail caps on all BBC tables that had them is a very thick veneer. Up to maybe 1/8" or 3/16" thick on the old T-rail tables, with a RW filler at the edge.

How wide are the rail caps on a GC?
From the feather strip measured right around the curve to the bottom edge?
Anyone know how thick the veneer was?
The rails on my Royal were BR, well faded from sunlight.
Prolly going to use PF as replacement, though there's still some limited BR here.

smt
 
Ssonerai said:
Anyone know how thick the veneer was?
The rails on my Royal were BR, well faded from sunlight.
Prolly going to use PF as replacement, though there's still some limited BR here.

smt
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As far as I know, the veneer on Gold Crowns is just standard Formica veneer, so thickness is probably about 1/16”.

What is PF? I understand BR as either Brazilian Rosewood, or Bolivian Rosewood.
 
Oops, sorry.
I did 2 confusing things.
1.) I meant how thick is the veneer on the rails on Centennial and Anniversay, right over the curve. Brain phart, just thinking these were the first modern version bolt-down rails.

Then, since someone above mentions veneering GC rails with hardwood *instead of* formica, how much width of custom sawn RW veneer would it take to do such a thing, if someone thought that was an interesting feature to have on their own table?

2.) I was using "BR" as shorthand for "Brazilian Rosewood". PF is "Pau Ferro" which is not a rosewood, but sometimes substituted as such. It can be cool looking wood, i have small pile of long, 8/4 lumber & sort of planned to use it for new rails if i ever get our room done, and can set up the table. OTOH, I have enough Brazilian rosewood to resaw for veneers if the rails are built up of ash and veneered over, like the originals. Then again, the Brazilian is desirable for sticks, so it is a conflict...... :)

PF is often labeled "Bolivian Rosewood" to make it seem fancier/more expensive.
OTOH, Honduran Rosewood, really is rosewood, and for some things i like it better than real Brazilian. But if you like black, and those surreal black streaks, then only true Brazilian will do.

Sorry for the confusion!
smt
 
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Ssonerai said:
But if you like black, and those surreal black streaks, then only true Brazilian will do.
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You can buy remnants, or a whole flitch of Macassar Ebony or Coromandel Ebony that is cut to veneer thickness already. If going this route I would use a quality vacuum bag setup when gluing the Ebony veneer panels to the table pieces.
 
You can buy remnants, or a whole flitch of Macassar Ebony or Coromandel Ebony that is cut to veneer thickness already. If going this route I would use a quality vacuum bag setup when gluing the Ebony veneer panels to the table pieces.
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The problem is that commercial veneer is too thin for billiard table rails. IMO. :)
As noted in other posts, i find collapsible discharge hose (firehose press types, but available in wider increments) more convenient, and offers higher pressure, for long, thin constructions like rails. But vac will work ok, if the veneer is thin.
 
Ssonerai said:
The problem is that commercial veneer is too thin for billiard table rails. IMO. :)
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IIRC Grade 12 Formica is used for the rails that is 1 MM thick. Wood veneers come in different thicknesses and some very close to the 1 MM Formica size. You can finish/seal the wood veneers with the thickest viscosity of industrial type of Cyanoacrylate glue and once that CA product cures, you will never have to worry about refinishing the rails for a very long time. Even with very heavy use on the table. The CA glue will really add the luster and make the wood veneer pop.
 
Standard veneer thickness today is 1/52" = less than .020" = slightly less than 1/2mm
I still make veneers for my own use at the old standard, 1/28" or around .035". Sometimes as thick as .062"/1/16"

Do you have pix of the cyano treatment?
How about epoxy bar finish?
 
There are some very good Epoxy top coat/finish products out there. There is a very good water based product made by Zar Poly OMU that is self leveling and has a 30 minute dry time. The Zar product was about 80 dollars a gallon when I last bought some, but it lays down perfectly, looks great and once totally cured it will last a very long time. The premium water based epoxy finishes of today are great products that are easy to apply, look great. For most people the premium epoxy top coat product if applied correctly, will out last them and look great while doing so.

CA glue can be bought in large quantities, but it is an expensive product. Once applied correctly, the CA top coat will last a very long time, even under very heavy use. When cost is no object, the CA top coat is very hard to beat.

 
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