3/4 snooker cue ...what does that mean?
- Thread starter bbb
- Start date
It means the cue breaks apart 3/4 of the way to the end of the butt and not dead in the middle. It requires a longer case to carry it in. On a 60 inch 3/4 snooker cue the butt section would only be about 15 inches long. Snooker cue joints vary just like pool cue joints vary. They do tend to use more two part brass joints than pool cues but there is no set standard.
I think 3/4 snooker cue means, that the joint is in the lower quarter of the cue. or in other words: the joint separates the cue in a 3/4 and 1/4 part.
This way, there is no interfering contour when the chin touches the stick.
This way, there is no interfering contour when the chin touches the stick.
Exactly true I believe.
Though there is no standard, the joint you mention is still used primarily on their "high end", "custom, "hand made" cues.
In pool, such a joint virtually immediately identifies a "cheap" Chinese import.
In their best cues they also still use primarily wood working production techniques such as hand planing rather than machining techniques on lathes as we see in pool cue production.
They do slab splicing rather than prong splicing. When you see a butterfly in their cues, we would not call it a true full splice.
And they don't typically decorate them with inlays or rings at all.
Brass ferrules.
Tips that intentionally mushroom.
All in all, quite different in so many ways.
Of course, there is still a huge variety and some resemble pool cues.
I almost jumped on an antique snooker cue with a wood pin. Really cool English made cue. Ended up being a shipping problem as the seller didn't want to ship here from Europe.
Cool topic. :smile:
3/4 of the cue is the shaft.
No standards of any kind in snooker either, different joints, diameters, ways of installing the ferrule etc..
As mentioned it's more manual labour involved and the tolerances arent as tight as you think, I've done quite a bit of snooker cue repair lately and you quickly notice that the cue is hand planed when you change the ferrule, none of the shaft I've worked on have been truly round, so gettig a ferrule flush is not like on a pool shaft.
Why they use heavy brass hardware and a 3/4 design, I'm not really sure about, I think the answer in large part is: tradition.
But things seems to be happening in snooker, phenolic and Ti ferrules, Kamui, G2 and others now make 10 and 11mm tips, lots of high-end chalks and I've even seen a snooker pro using a glove!
No standards of any kind in snooker either, different joints, diameters, ways of installing the ferrule etc..
As mentioned it's more manual labour involved and the tolerances arent as tight as you think, I've done quite a bit of snooker cue repair lately and you quickly notice that the cue is hand planed when you change the ferrule, none of the shaft I've worked on have been truly round, so gettig a ferrule flush is not like on a pool shaft.
Why they use heavy brass hardware and a 3/4 design, I'm not really sure about, I think the answer in large part is: tradition.
But things seems to be happening in snooker, phenolic and Ti ferrules, Kamui, G2 and others now make 10 and 11mm tips, lots of high-end chalks and I've even seen a snooker pro using a glove!
Not to derail this thread but have you seen Stuart Bingham's cue ? It's the first snooker cue I've seen blinged-up a bit :thumbup:
https://twitter.com/stuart__bingham/status/877999350521241600?lang=en
Dave