3 Cushion Billiard for Beginners: Nature System

[cuetable]

First please allow me to say that I am still at intermediate beginner's level although I have been playing 3C off and on for 8 years. By no means I am an experts. It is an answer to Rasta in another thread which I thought might be educational for all. I appreciate and welcome experts to add comments.

This is an easy beginner's "Nature" system that's similar to one of Mr. Ceulemans'. There are at least 6 different types of system for different situations. This is the most basic one and probably have already been published somewhere. It was taught to me years ago by Mr. Young Lee, a very modest gentleman at Carom Cafe.

In diagram 1:

the red number at the lower right is the starting point
the blue number at the top right is the ending point
the black number at the top left is the aiming point
the yellow number at the bottom left is the 3rd cushion reference point

basic rule:
starting point - ending point = aiming point
starting point - aiming point = ending point

When setting the aiming points as variables:

50 - 0 = 50
50 -10 = 40
50 -20 = 30
50 -30 = 20
50 -40 = 10
50 -50 = 0

Notes:
A, First rail contact point and the aiming point is different, one must aim at the diamond instead of the cushion.

B, This works when CB is any where on the line between starting point and aiming point except when 1, the CB is frozen to the rail and addition top spin is applied, 2, the CB is too close to the aiming point where the CB will not reach a nature roll before contact.

C, The ending point 40 is actually 37.5 in Mr. Ceuleman's Mr. 100. Perhaps I was taught this way to remember it a little easier.

D, My friend Ira would give me a hard time (in a sense of being a strict teacher) if I ever mention about system to him. His point is: All systems are like a crutch. Once you use it, it will be hard to get rid of it. It might be easy to learn billiard by relying on them. However, they will prohibit the student from learning the finer points and being creative in the long run. As years went by I started to understand what he meant.

E, This system is a little different on a pool table. From my own experence, the pool table is about 1 to half diamond short. For more interest in this subject on a pool table, please view:

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[cuetable]

Diagram 2

Setting the starting points as variables:

50 - 30 = 20
40 - 20 = 20
30 - 10 = 20

 

[cuetable]

Diagram 3

Mix and Match:

40 - 10 = 30

Note: the ending point would be 30 if the yellow and red are not in the way

 

[Rasta]

These were very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this.

Good Rolls,
Rasta

 

[Bob Jewett]

First please allow me to say that I am still at intermediate beginner's level although I have been playing 3C off and on for 8 years. By no means I am an experts. It is an answer to Rasta in another thread which I thought might be educational for all. I appreciate and welcome experts to add comments. ...

I think what you are illustrating is more or less the standard "corner-5" system. There are lots of variations on it. A major consideration is whether you play "through" or "opposite" the diamond on the first rail. Allen Gilbert in his explanation of his more or less equivalent system also uses two or three other ways to aim at a diamond involving the edges rather than the center of the cue ball.

Another problem is to decide on your origin, which can be by a similar through or opposite approach. There is a major problem around the corner -- where exactly is "5". (Or 50, if you want to multiply everything by 10.)

The system gives you the landing spot on the third cushion, and it does that pretty well. If you are interested in the landing spot on the fourth cushion, you need to include allowances depending on how "long" the cue ball starts. Robert Byrne explains one system of allowances in his "standard" book. Hoppe doesn't mention allowances, as I recall.

 

[cuetable]

Diagram 4

I think what you are illustrating is more or less the standard "corner-5" system. There are lots of variations on it. A major consideration is whether you play "through" or "opposite" the diamond on the first rail. Allen Gilbert in his explanation of his more or less equivalent system also uses two or three other ways to aim at a diamond involving the edges rather than the center of the cue ball.

Another problem is to decide on your origin, which can be by a similar through or opposite approach. There is a major problem around the corner -- where exactly is "5". (Or 50, if you want to multiply everything by 10.)

The system gives you the landing spot on the third cushion, and it does that pretty well. If you are interested in the landing spot on the fourth cushion, you need to include allowances depending on how "long" the cue ball starts. Robert Byrne explains one system of allowances in his "standard" book. Hoppe doesn't mention allowances, as I recall.

Hi Bob,

In this system I learned, "50" is the location for a ball to be frozen to the corner.

When you mentioned about the allowance, I am guess that you are refering to what happens this diagram? If the answer is yes, would you have time to explain why this happens and any solutions for a precise calculation on the 4th and even the 5th rail contact point?

Description: Normal pool player might think the path "2" would be a nature route for the ball after travelling 3 rail. However an a modern heated billiard table found in tournaments, route "1" woule be more correct.

 

[cuetable]

Diagram 5

On the long side, it goes like this:

http://CueTable.com/C/?@1AbKh1BbKh1...cbyy3cfbr3cbqx3cXIk1cbNm2cAWl2cbwX4cYOK4uAAK@