ok thanks. will keep that in mind and would have to see how it turns out coz my butt-section is an older flat-faced cue.You would have less threads on the insert if you remove the piloted end from the shaft. You could be ok, depending on how many threads are left on the insert....
I've done this a bunch of times with zero issues so far. On most shafts the pilot has little to do with the integrity of the insert, with the possible exception of ones that have wood surrounding the part that sticks out past the end of the shaft.Will a piloted 5/16x14 work just by removing or shaving off what's sticking out to turn it into a flat-faced, or do you have to remove and replace it?
TIA
Also if no one local to you will handle this, I'll trim it off and countersink the hole for a $2 bill lolWill a piloted 5/16x14 work just by removing or shaving off what's sticking out to turn it into a flat-faced, or do you have to remove and replace it?
TIA
Roger! Thanks and will definitely keep that in mindAlso if no one local to you will handle this, I'll trim it off and countersink the hole for a $2 bill lol
I had the same problem earlier and experimented with a ring made from a cheap plastic joint protector, it ain't pretty as this one was made in about an hour using a drill and a hacksaw, I reckon a cue maker could make one that would match your current joint color and material. The advantage of this one is that I can still use the shaft on the original butt it was designed for.
One of the reasons I switched to these inserts.Always remove and replace.
Those look great and solves the problem if the customer asks for a flat faced shaft later on. My experience is the same as Chris, you never know how it's gonna turn out when cutting off that pilot. Since I have an induction heater, it's fairly easy to just use heat and a screw extractor and just clean up everything for a new insert.One of the reasons I switched to these inserts.