mapman72
New member
Wow, these are a lot of shots to go over so I'll just begin with the first one. I'm not fond of how you approached this. It's not a bad idea, it's just not my preference and I'll explain why. It's a high demand shot while still leaving an opportunity for your opponent to win the game. All this work, bank-in his remaining stripe while holding the cueball to leave a bank still leaves a very makeable bank.
EDIT: I just remembered you played another shot. I'm not fond of that idea either simply because you're hiding behind a ball that's frozen to the rail. Even though it's in close proximity to the ball you're contacting, that 8ball provides very little coverage. This shot would be more of an option if the cueball were closer but with the distance you have to shoot combined with the fact that you're kinda on the wrong side of the 5ball to hit it very thin, it's just too hard with little reward.
I like this idea - the primary objective is to hide the cueball behind either the 1 or the 5 and because of their close proximity, it actually makes this a fairly large target. The bonus is making the 9 which REALLY locks him up.
I'm not saying this is an easy safe but a common safe you can develop a feel for with some practice.
Jude, I always like your analysis but I disagree with this one. Even for strong players I think you're 60/40 to not get safe here. There is one way to pull it off. Hit the bank perfect. If you do, you leave the 7 in the hole and get safe. If you don't, the 7 pops out a bit and you don't get the cue ball safe.
I have a theory and it goes like this...if you're between a difficult safe and a difficult offensive shot, take the difficult offensive shot because it provides the opportunity to win the game without your opponent getting back to the table. On an 8 foot table, a SL-7 should be able to cut the 7 in and get out unless you're playing on a triple shim.