OK, admittedly I'm a novice player. I was talking to someone better and they said "9 ball is an easy game, all you need to know are patterns". So, what the heck patterns are they talking about? Can you explain to me, what shots you seem to see come up time and time again and what you need to do to get position for the next shot. I'm looking for a "pattern" from you responses.
9 ball patterns
- Thread starter Snorks
- Start date
I'm probably not the best to give an answer but I will start.
Keep the cueball in the center of the table when possible.
Leave yourself an angle so you can get easy shape on the next ball. Most the time you do not want to be straight in.
Focus on having easy shape. Not necessarily easy shots.
Try to follow on most shots instead of drawing. Follow is easier to control.
Give yourself the most margin for error.
Keep the cueball in the center of the table when possible.
Leave yourself an angle so you can get easy shape on the next ball. Most the time you do not want to be straight in.
Focus on having easy shape. Not necessarily easy shots.
Try to follow on most shots instead of drawing. Follow is easier to control.
Give yourself the most margin for error.
You would like control of the center of the table.
Break Shot sink a ball and leave the Cue ball parked in the center. Thats always easy.
Now for pratice put a ball on the 2 dimond on the long rail. Sink it and get the CB back to the center. I like follow going two rails.
Place a Object ball at the same 2 diamond but this time a 11/2 ball width off the rail. Shoot it in from the center with low outside and bring the CB back to the center off the long rail.
Last put a OB at the intersection of the 1 diamonds at a corner, CB in the center sink the OB with low outside and go two rails again to the center.
This should get you started in the right direction.
As far as easy???? I am still a work in progress. I f it was easy it would not hold my attention the way it does!
Break Shot sink a ball and leave the Cue ball parked in the center. Thats always easy.
Now for pratice put a ball on the 2 dimond on the long rail. Sink it and get the CB back to the center. I like follow going two rails.
Place a Object ball at the same 2 diamond but this time a 11/2 ball width off the rail. Shoot it in from the center with low outside and bring the CB back to the center off the long rail.
Last put a OB at the intersection of the 1 diamonds at a corner, CB in the center sink the OB with low outside and go two rails again to the center.
This should get you started in the right direction.
As far as easy???? I am still a work in progress. I f it was easy it would not hold my attention the way it does!
link removed-didn't work
Here's an example. The wrong way to play this would be drawing straight back from the one to get straight in on the two so that you can draw back for the three. Correct way would be a stop shot on the one and then two rails off the two. This involves no drawing and gives you the largest window on the three.
Here's an example. The wrong way to play this would be drawing straight back from the one to get straight in on the two so that you can draw back for the three. Correct way would be a stop shot on the one and then two rails off the two. This involves no drawing and gives you the largest window on the three.
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9 ball is a game of angles.
This table lies very easy.
One in the corner.
Two in the side.
Three in the corner.
Four in the corner.
Key shot: 5 in the corner, get the correct angle to follow up to fairly straight in on the 6.
Six on the other corner and slightly draw back for position on the 7 in the bottom corner.
Pocket the 7 in the bottom corner with slight draw to get a low angle on the 8.
Cut the 8 in the corner with centerball and naturally float down to pocket the 9 in the corner.
When you know your angles and how to keep it simple, 9 ball ain't so bad. After the break, find the KEY shot to run out the rack. If there are clusters, evaluate if you should attempt a breakout or play safe. Develop this gameplan (and this doesn't take long with a good break) and then start executing. Try to minimize cueball movement, and play the simple rails. Why go two rails if you can go one (unless the angle of the shot plays to where it is more comfortable with a two rail approach). You just have to evaluate all of these factors and go from there.
9 Ball. I love it!
This table lies very easy.
One in the corner.
Two in the side.
Three in the corner.
Four in the corner.
Key shot: 5 in the corner, get the correct angle to follow up to fairly straight in on the 6.
Six on the other corner and slightly draw back for position on the 7 in the bottom corner.
Pocket the 7 in the bottom corner with slight draw to get a low angle on the 8.
Cut the 8 in the corner with centerball and naturally float down to pocket the 9 in the corner.
When you know your angles and how to keep it simple, 9 ball ain't so bad. After the break, find the KEY shot to run out the rack. If there are clusters, evaluate if you should attempt a breakout or play safe. Develop this gameplan (and this doesn't take long with a good break) and then start executing. Try to minimize cueball movement, and play the simple rails. Why go two rails if you can go one (unless the angle of the shot plays to where it is more comfortable with a two rail approach). You just have to evaluate all of these factors and go from there.
9 Ball. I love it!
mnShooter said:
You definitely don't have to draw back from the one to the two...but if you get a little out of line, you can get to the three very easily. As in my previous post..I've listed the key shots in the rack, which aren't terribly complicated. Remember, if you mess up one way...don't get frustrated. Look for the alternative route, and think about how you might be able to create the angle you need for shape (ala extreme english, rail first shotmaking, cheating the pocket, etc).
One other thing to keep in mind is that on most position play shots you do not want to be straight in, rather it is easier if you have an angle on the object ball as this affords you more opportunity to move the cueball around. Straight in only affords going back and going forward with minor variations achievable by hitting to certain parts of the pocket to fabricate an angle. (aka cheating the pocket).
Another thing to keep in mind is that on most position play you want to take the path that the cueball is heading towards the object ball. There will be in many cases a few different ways that you can "in line" with your next shot, but you will want to learn to recognize which position plays afford you the most margin for error. For example, look at the diagram that mnShooter posted. mnShooter correctly points out that drawing back from the 2 to the three is the wrong way to get position. Elaborating on that a bit, the reason that it is wrong is that when you draw back you have to hit a certain spot on the table, which looks to be roughly about a foot by a foot. Any less or any more and it becomes difficult for you to shoot to get position on the four. Compare that area to the area that you are provided if you shoot the two and go two rails (top rail, right side short rail) and have the cueball heading towards the 3. The angle towards the three from the second rail is such that anywhere on the line from the second rail to the three ball and you are in line. About the only way to dog position here is to overhit it or to put unneeded english on the ball that changes the natural 2 rail position.
You want to choose position play that allows the ball to naturally move towards the next ball in line.
One of the biggest mistakes I see beginners do is to fail to spend the moment and walk around the table and look to see where the correct angle is to get on the next shot. Often times if they looked they would have seen that they just needed to make sure that the cueball moved a foot more. Instead they see that the next shot has a pocket available and they just fire the shot in knowing that they will have a pocket to shoot the next ball in. Then they fire the shot in and complain that they are straight in and have no position play available.
Another thing to keep in mind is that on most position play you want to take the path that the cueball is heading towards the object ball. There will be in many cases a few different ways that you can "in line" with your next shot, but you will want to learn to recognize which position plays afford you the most margin for error. For example, look at the diagram that mnShooter posted. mnShooter correctly points out that drawing back from the 2 to the three is the wrong way to get position. Elaborating on that a bit, the reason that it is wrong is that when you draw back you have to hit a certain spot on the table, which looks to be roughly about a foot by a foot. Any less or any more and it becomes difficult for you to shoot to get position on the four. Compare that area to the area that you are provided if you shoot the two and go two rails (top rail, right side short rail) and have the cueball heading towards the 3. The angle towards the three from the second rail is such that anywhere on the line from the second rail to the three ball and you are in line. About the only way to dog position here is to overhit it or to put unneeded english on the ball that changes the natural 2 rail position.
You want to choose position play that allows the ball to naturally move towards the next ball in line.
One of the biggest mistakes I see beginners do is to fail to spend the moment and walk around the table and look to see where the correct angle is to get on the next shot. Often times if they looked they would have seen that they just needed to make sure that the cueball moved a foot more. Instead they see that the next shot has a pocket available and they just fire the shot in knowing that they will have a pocket to shoot the next ball in. Then they fire the shot in and complain that they are straight in and have no position play available.
Matt_24 said:
Personally, I would play this shot a little differently. I wouldnt worry about trying to get straight on the 5 to play it straight in and follow for the 6 in the other corner. I would just play the cue ball back to the center of the table area. Maybe 1.5 diamonds in from the lower rail of the diagram. Leave an angle to just stun the 5 ball shot. Cue ball drifts past the 7 for the 6 in the same pocket as the 5.
If you over hit the position shot on the 5, your way works. But for me, if I am going for the cue ball about where it is in the diagram (for your position on the 5 to roll ahead), if I over hit going for that position (cue ball goes too close to the top rail in the diagram), I might leave myself where the natural angle is a sewer in the side. Then you are trying to make a harder shot than required.
Just my humble opinion.
Snorks said:So, in the above diagram, what % of the time would you guys run out? This looks to be a fairly easy table but I could manage to get out of line in 3 shots or less
The 5 to the 6 is still the toughest spot on the table. But it is still a wide open table. I dont like to think about what % of the time I would get out. With this layout, I would expect to get out walking to the table. Everytime.
Your pattern is almost completeley correct. According to your pattern up to the 6, the 7 would not be played in the corner, the proper position would be to play it in the side pocket on the top of diagram. Once you clear out the 1 and the 2, playing the 7 in the side is much easier than trying to get it in the corner.Matt_24 said:
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Robbie said:
I wasn't descriptive enough in my post. I never play "straight in" position. If I could "illustrate" what I meant, it would make better sense but I don't have enough computer savey. The best way to run out in 9 ball is the easiest way...and if I could just 'do it' in person versus writing about it, it would make a lot more sense...lol. That layout is a Coz.
PoolFool said:
You might be correct regarding the 7. It is easier to "do it" in person than running out by typing. I just try to play very naturally, and just from looking at it, it seemed like playing the shot in the corner would be the easier shot selection for minimal cueball movement (which I feel is the key to success). I employ the Rempe/Hall method of running out. As little cue ball movement as necessary.
Rude Dog said:Just super-draw the CB off the 1 and make the 9 in the corner. Pfffft, easy out.
Sheesh...I should have realized that!
Honestly though, don't you love it when you have a 9 ball hanger that you can just put a semi-powerful draw off the object ball to bring the cue ball into the 9? That is quite satisfying. It is even more satisfying when you have to use a power draw and you hit it perfectly.
Here's another example
http://CueTable.com/P/?01IbI02O%N03!MD04kOh05gMV06(O;07W$k08r|N09l|y16ZXi19!)O
Please tell me what you see as key balls and how you would handle them. Maybe even post a diagram of your out.
I think the most important part of this rack is not getting straight in on the 7 or the 8.
http://CueTable.com/P/?01IbI02O%N03!MD04kOh05gMV06(O;07W$k08r|N09l|y16ZXi19!)O
Please tell me what you see as key balls and how you would handle them. Maybe even post a diagram of your out.
I think the most important part of this rack is not getting straight in on the 7 or the 8.
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Snorks said:
Some common patterns are:
One rail, straight down the table
START(
%AE5K9%BL1I4%CZ2Z1%PJ1P0%UD6M2%VE6M1%YQ7M6%ZC5L9%[D4C7%\E4J6
%]F2M6%^I0O5%eB6`6
)END
Doubling the corner
- Outside natural START(
%AJ2U5%BP1O2%CZ2Z1%PQ9U6%US4K4%VL3D5%WE2Z1%XI5V2%YL2T8%ZQ0U5
%[D8N4%\K5T4%]K6E1%^D3M5%eB6a4
)END - Force follow START(
%AJ8N3%BP1O2%CZ2Z1%PQ9U6%UU2J4%VI5C7%WC7D1%XJ2M5%YL2P1%ZQ0U1
%]H4D6%^D5I0%eB9`8%_E1J3%`I6O1%aK7O5
)END - Draw START(
%AI4P1%BP1O2%CZ2Z1%PM5J7%UT6J9%VI5C7%WC8[2%XH6P8%YK1N1%ZL8K6
%]H4D6%^D0H2%eC1b0%_C9I3%`G5M5%aJ0N8
)END
Passing through the center of the table START(
%AO1E6%Bj0O3%CZ2Z1%PT1H7%QZ3N8%Ud6Z2%VQ0D1%WD1D0%XN1E6%Yg0Y0
%Ze1Z7%]P6D8%^P0E6%eC1b0%`G1_1
)END
The combination of doubling the corner, passing through the center, and killing the ball on the third rail is absolutely common.
START(
%AL0U5%Bq9N9%CZ2Z1%PV2T6%QZ3N8%Uf6Z2%VN1C8%WD7M0%XL7S9%Yl4X1
%Zg8Z7%[C9[6%\K3V2%]M0D2%^C8K9%eC1a7%_N2T7%`Q4T5%aU0T4
)END
Firm Draw Out and Back
START(
%Ag6Q3%Br0T8%CZ2Z1%P^0T7%QZ3N8%Ur0P1%Vk8Z6%Yr8D3%Zh5P3%[e3R2
%\^9T3%eB8b0%_k3Z5%`h7U2%af4R1
)END
The dreaded inside running 3-railer
START(
%Ab6P1%BG3N5%CZ2Z1%PS9Q5%QZ3N8%Ur4I6%Vm8D5%Ym4D9%Za6O6%[e3Z7
%\r7J6%]`7O9%^U3Q3%eC1a8%_P9D8%`Z7O3%ad6[0%bb7^9
)END
Oh, there's more standard patterns, but these come up all the time.
Fred