A Question For Jump Meisters

For all of you jump meisters that have tried, experienced, or owned various jump cues (dedicated-not J/B combos), which one seems to do the best job of getting the CB airborn the quickest from the closest distance and is still somewhat controllable. The Bunjee; Lucasi; Scorpion (with brass ferrule); Frog; Jacoby; Mezz; Cuetec? Remember NO J/B combos!
 
I have not tried many of the ones on your list, so I cant speak for all of them. But I can tell you this, I have always jumped well, first with a full cue then a jump/break that I bought. Held off on getting one of the "knew bread" jump cues for a long time thinking there was no way it would really jump that much better than what I was currently playing.

I purchased a Lucasi from Neilsens Billiards on ebay (great person to deal with) and have to tell you it is unbelievable how easy this things jumps! The problem I had at first was jumping all the way over the ball I was trying to hit LOL. For the money I think the Lucasi is a hard one to beat, and I am not a big fan of Lucasi playing cues.

It took me a while to learn how to jump overhanded, but now I can get over balls that are pretty close. I still jump most of the time underhanded as I have alot more control that way, but if the ball is close and I just need a hit I can usually get there.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but seeing how drivermaker made sure to specifically not include j/b combos I always wondered how much of a difference in performance do you see when comparing a jump cue thats part of a combo or a specialized jump cue such as The Frog.
 
drivermaker said:
For all of you jump meisters that have tried, experienced, or owned various jump cues (dedicated-not J/B combos), which one seems to do the best job of getting the CB airborn the quickest from the closest distance and is still somewhat controllable. The Bunjee; Lucasi; Scorpion (with brass ferrule); Frog; Jacoby; Mezz; Cuetec? Remember NO J/B combos!

head and shoulders above the rest IMO............jacoby jumping jamess II


VAP
 
drivermaker said:
For all of you jump meisters that have tried, experienced, or owned various jump cues (dedicated-not J/B combos), which one seems to do the best job of getting the CB airborn the quickest from the closest distance and is still somewhat controllable. The Bunjee; Lucasi; Scorpion (with brass ferrule); Frog; Jacoby; Mezz; Cuetec? Remember NO J/B combos!

I own a frog, Buddy Hall/Lucasi and a Jacoby and the jacoby gets the cue ball up and down the fastest.
 
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For anyone interested in a new jump cue you have to look at the Stinger Jump/Break. It is an unbelievable jump cue. I have played with many and I can get over balls with the whole cue that I used to need a jump cue for. I know that you said no J/B cues but if you want the best than I believe this is it. Breaks really well too.
 
Chris_Lynch said:
For anyone interested in a new jump cue you have to look at the Stinger Jump/Break. It is an unbelievable jump cue. I have played with many and I can get over balls with the whole cue that I used to need a jump cue for. I know that you said no J/B cues but if you want the best than I believe this is it. Breaks really well too.


Chris,

I wonder how long the tip/ferrule on the Stinger will hold up. According to Jerico, there is a small gap between the "stinger end" of the tip and the bottom of the ferrule. IF that's the case, the ferrule is compressing everytime. You would think this might cause the ferrule to start cracking.


Eric
 
Lucasi produces a very good jump cue. Which alot of players around here have. I still think they are good, but by far the best is the Jacoby Jump Cue, with a brass phenolic tip. We couldnt believe the difference compared to the Lucasi even. My friend who has a Lucasi, want to purchase the Jacoby on the spot. If you are looking for a jump cue, try the Jacoby, only if you have the money, cause you will want it.
 
Perk said:
Lucasi produces a very good jump cue. Which alot of players around here have. I still think they are good, but by far the best is the Jacoby Jump Cue, with a brass phenolic tip. We couldnt believe the difference compared to the Lucasi even. My friend who has a Lucasi, want to purchase the Jacoby on the spot. If you are looking for a jump cue, try the Jacoby, only if you have the money, cause you will want it.


I own a Lucasi and I have to say it is a nice cheap option when purchasing a jump/break cue. For $200 you really can't go wrong but it's not the best out there. Chris is absolutely right. The Stinger break/jump is revolutionary. Simply put, there are situations where you need to perform a full-cue jump (either by rule or for long-distance accuracy). You can do that with The Stinger which automatically makes it a more versatile cue. If you haven't tried it out, DO SO. You'll be floored by how good it is.
 
drivermaker said:
For all of you jump meisters that have tried, experienced, or owned various jump cues (dedicated-not J/B combos), which one seems to do the best job of getting the CB airborn the quickest from the closest distance and is still somewhat controllable. The Bunjee; Lucasi; Scorpion (with brass ferrule); Frog; Jacoby; Mezz; Cuetec? Remember NO J/B combos!
I have tried various brands and models of jump cues. I agree that to get the maximum effect of your break and jump cue that the cues need to be separate. I have found that the main performance issue in jump cues lies in the weight of the cue. The lighter the cue, the quicker the ball gets up. I'm not a scientist, so I can't give any data to prove this, but it's just how it works for me. I now use a J&J jump cue that weighs slightly under 8 oz. The only thing I have seen lighter is an Oliver Stops j/b of which the jump part weighs appx. 7 oz. It jumps better than the J&J, but I can't get the guy to sell me the Stops. Both cues have the phenolic tip/ferrule combination.

So, my suggestion would be that you try a jump cue that is as light as possible.

Mike
 
Mike Templeton said:
I have tried various brands and models of jump cues. I agree that to get the maximum effect of your break and jump cue that the cues need to be separate. I have found that the main performance issue in jump cues lies in the weight of the cue. The lighter the cue, the quicker the ball gets up. I'm not a scientist, so I can't give any data to prove this, but it's just how it works for me. I now use a J&J jump cue that weighs slightly under 8 oz. The only thing I have seen lighter is an Oliver Stops j/b of which the jump part weighs appx. 7 oz. It jumps better than the J&J, but I can't get the guy to sell me the Stops. Both cues have the phenolic tip/ferrule combination.

So, my suggestion would be that you try a jump cue that is as light as possible.

Mike


Mike, try the Stinger. I'm serious, this thing is ridiculous. Obviously, these guys have discovered another element in cues that promotes jumping because they can get a 19 oz. full-length cue to act like a jump cue and yet, this thing still breaks down.
 
I'm intrigued by the this Stinger. I had been leaning toward getting a Fury because of all the good things I've heard about them as well as they price. Any more details on the Stinger and how much it'd set a fella back?
 
drivermaker said:
For all of you jump meisters that have tried, experienced, or owned various jump cues (dedicated-not J/B combos), which one seems to do the best job of getting the CB airborn the quickest from the closest distance and is still somewhat controllable. The Bunjee; Lucasi; Scorpion (with brass ferrule); Frog; Jacoby; Mezz; Cuetec? Remember NO J/B combos!


fast eddie's 747
 
Stinger...

I have to agree with the Stinger contingent...just got mine last week, and it is nothing short of phenomenal! Tom Simpson has exclusive rights to sell it right now...great guy!...try it and you will want one!...and its beautiful to boot...everyone on my teams wants one...

http://www.poolclinics.com/products.html
 
You guys are all wrong, there is absolutely no better Jump Cue than a Foster Jump cue. I have tried Bunjee, J&J, Predator, Falcon, and various others and a Foster out-jumps them all. He has a phenolic tip/ferrule combination (not 1 piece) that he designed himself, long before any of the major manufacturers started using them. go to www.fostercues.com. I think the Price is around $125. He also offer full Length Jump/Break cues that you can easily jump with at full length. His tip ferrule combination is not just a throw together idea, Doug tried many, many different approaches to Jump cue making, and has come up with a result that is simply impossible to surpass. Doug is great with a jump cue, and pulls it out every chance he gets, it may not be the best for his game, but you can be sure he has spent countless hours fiddling with minor properties or construction to come up with the best possible result.

Those stinger cues look nice, But how do you get consistent performance out of cues made with different wood in the forearms? Anyone else notice that the forearms of those cues are not maple? I would not Want a dense wood like ebony to be the main Forearm Component. Is it just a sleeve?
 
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fxskater said:
You guys are all wrong, there is absolutely no better Jump Cue than a Foster Jump cue. I have tried Bunjee, J&J, Predator, Falcon, and various others and a Foster out-jumps them all. He has a phenolic tip/ferrule combination (not 1 piece) that he designed himself, long before any of the major manufacturers started using them. go to www.fostercues.com. I think the Price is around $125. He also offer full Length Jump/Break cues that you can easily jump with at full length. His tip ferrule combination is not just a throw together idea, Doug tried many, many different approaches to Jump cue making, and has come up with a result that is simply impossible to surpass. Doug is great with a jump cue, and pulls it out every chance he gets, it may not be the best for his game, but you can be sure he has spent countless hours fiddling with minor properties or construction to come up with the best possible result.

Those stinger cues look nice, But how do you get consistent performance out of cues made with different wood in the forearms? Anyone else notice that the forearms of those cues are not maple? I would not Want a dense wood like ebony to be the main Forearm Component. Is it just a sleeve?

Check it out...

http://www.poolclinics.com/products.html
 
I did check it out, look at the forearms. I'm not trying to say anything bad or negative against this guy. I always thought wood selection (different density and such) made a huge impact on the hit and feel of the cue. Maybe i am wrong, can someone explain why the forearms, with different woods, perform consistently? If it were the points that were a different wood it wouldnt be an issue for me, but it is the Main Component from what i can see in those pictures.
 
fxskater said:
I did check it out, look at the forearms. I'm not trying to say anything bad or negative against this guy. I always thought wood selection (different density and such) made a huge impact on the hit and feel of the cue. Maybe i am wrong, can someone explain why the forearms, with different woods, perform consistently? If it were the points that were a different wood it wouldnt be an issue for me, but it is the Main Component from what i can see in those pictures.

The best jump cue, would be the lightest.
From looking at the picture that shows the bottom of the forearm, with the insert, i wish someone would let somebody with a "Mike Sigel type" break, break with that cue...
Just once...
ROFL.

CAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK!!!!!

:eek:
 
BiG_JoN said:
The best jump cue, would be the lightest.

At the risk of personal injury from flying cocobolo, has anyone made a jump cue with a titanium or aluminum or kevlar tube for a butt ? Wood is traditional of course, but one could make a lighter cue with other materials. I know of titanium cues (shaft and butt), a regular at the hall uses a WalMart unit as a break cue, it hits better than I expected. What about jumpers ?

Dave
 
Eric. said:
Chris,

I wonder how long the tip/ferrule on the Stinger will hold up. According to Jerico, there is a small gap between the "stinger end" of the tip and the bottom of the ferrule. IF that's the case, the ferrule is compressing everytime. You would think this might cause the ferrule to start cracking.


Eric

I'm not going to worry about it since it has a lifetime guarantee for the tip/ferrule.
 
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