African Blackwood
- Thread starter Hit Man
- Start date
Hit Man said:
Any of the heavy, dense woods, can be cored with a lighter wood. This does not affect the hit or feel of the Q...JER
Hit Man said:
We have a local cuemaker here that uses it frequently. It can make for a stunning cue...I like it.
Maybe this link could be helpful:
http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/blackwood, african.htm
Lisa
no worries
It is an excellent wood for cuemaking and the harmonics make for a wonderful feeling cue. African Blackwood is used in the construction of bagpipes and clarinets and I have seen it in many top cuemakers cues over the years, especially early Joss Wests....
No worries at all about using it, it's dense and heavy like Ebony so a forearm would be best cored, and quite honestly I think it's much more attractive than Ebony...lots of character once it has a good finish....good luck!!
Mike
It is an excellent wood for cuemaking and the harmonics make for a wonderful feeling cue. African Blackwood is used in the construction of bagpipes and clarinets and I have seen it in many top cuemakers cues over the years, especially early Joss Wests....
No worries at all about using it, it's dense and heavy like Ebony so a forearm would be best cored, and quite honestly I think it's much more attractive than Ebony...lots of character once it has a good finish....good luck!!
Mike
African Blackwood has about all the characteristics of black ebony; color, weight, density, glueing and finishing aspects... etc., but it has more strength.
As Black ebony is extremely strong lengthwise, it is very weak when looking at bending aspects. A rod of ebony is rather easy to break in two.
On the other hand, african blackwood is much stronger when trying to bend it.
You might be asking yourself now; why is he telling this?
It is of a great importance when making a full splice cue. When choosing black ebony for the low part of the spliced butt, it happens more often that the points just snap because the wood can't take the forces of bending and twisting during a shot.
African blackwood on the other hand is stronger and "more flexible" wich minimizes the risk of points losening or breaking after a while.
African blackwood is therefore a very reliable wood for instrument building as it resonates very well and takes the vibrations very well...
BE CAREFULL: both woods mentioned here are very toxic and create a very fine dust when working it. That dust gets in your lungs and respitory ways very easy. The dust also gets into the pores of your skin wich can make you walk around for a few days with dirty hands...
Therefore, wearing a mask and gloves when working the wood is a very healthy tip. Also make sure there is enough ventilation...
Tom Penrose
As Black ebony is extremely strong lengthwise, it is very weak when looking at bending aspects. A rod of ebony is rather easy to break in two.
On the other hand, african blackwood is much stronger when trying to bend it.
You might be asking yourself now; why is he telling this?
It is of a great importance when making a full splice cue. When choosing black ebony for the low part of the spliced butt, it happens more often that the points just snap because the wood can't take the forces of bending and twisting during a shot.
African blackwood on the other hand is stronger and "more flexible" wich minimizes the risk of points losening or breaking after a while.
African blackwood is therefore a very reliable wood for instrument building as it resonates very well and takes the vibrations very well...
BE CAREFULL: both woods mentioned here are very toxic and create a very fine dust when working it. That dust gets in your lungs and respitory ways very easy. The dust also gets into the pores of your skin wich can make you walk around for a few days with dirty hands...
Therefore, wearing a mask and gloves when working the wood is a very healthy tip. Also make sure there is enough ventilation...
Tom Penrose
African blackwood
Thank you everyone for posting replies. I've been doing a bit of research here on the net myself about this wood. Seems to be the ideal choice for me. I've also found a few instrument grade blanks in blackwood (rare stuff and pricey too). Hard to get in this grade and size. I wouldn't mind sharing info sources for anyone interested.
Regards, Ralph
Thank you everyone for posting replies. I've been doing a bit of research here on the net myself about this wood. Seems to be the ideal choice for me. I've also found a few instrument grade blanks in blackwood (rare stuff and pricey too). Hard to get in this grade and size. I wouldn't mind sharing info sources for anyone interested.
Regards, Ralph