Anniversary Rebuild -
- Thread starter Steve149a
- Start date
67GT500
Sorry it took me so long to reply to this thread, I have not checked it for a while. Thank you so much for the stain color, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to pick some up later this week and give it a try. Steve
Sorry it took me so long to reply to this thread, I have not checked it for a while. Thank you so much for the stain color, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to pick some up later this week and give it a try. Steve
67GT500,
By the way, if your table plays half as good as it looks you have a fantastic table! Thanks again for the info, Steve
By the way, if your table plays half as good as it looks you have a fantastic table! Thanks again for the info, Steve
I’m starting to reassemble my Anniversary table now. It’s been a long process but I did have some rail work done by Mark Gregory and worked a deal with the local wood shop on the legs, aprons, and rail surfaces. I think it’s going to look and play outstanding. I’ll post some pictures shortly.
My question today is… Does anyone know a good Table Mechanic in Milwaukee? I have two tables to work on, one is a Gold Crown 1 and the other is this Anniversary table. I’ll need these both leveled, squared up, and cloth put on. I enjoy doing some of this work myself but I play with some pretty competitive guys and need these two tables PERFECT.
Let me know.
Thanks
Steve[/QUOTE
Happy New Year Steve, since you must be in or near Milw. if you need help evaluating your Anniversary when it is done feel free to let me know, Im only about 1/2 hour from the north/west side of Milw.
Your welcome...If you have any questions, feel free to call me (610)781-5186. Good luck to all of the Steve's with your anniversary rebuilds. These truly are some of the greatest shooting tables out there. I've heard a lot of good things about Mark's rail work on this site. I cant wait to see some finished pictures of these tables. I never get tired of looking at or playing on them.
Thanks, Dean
Dean,
Thanks for your number, and I just found your PM. My skirts are the original poplar. I did pick up some pre stain product to help even out blotching. I have not played with it yet so I can't comment on how well it works yet. I've sanded down the skirts and played with a couple trial mixes on some scrap poplar but have not come close to the correct match. It seems odd to me that Brunswick would choose to use one species of wood for the skirts, another for the pedestals, and I'm assuming both would match the formica rails. Seems like a difficult way to go to save a few bucks.
Thanks for your number, and I just found your PM. My skirts are the original poplar. I did pick up some pre stain product to help even out blotching. I have not played with it yet so I can't comment on how well it works yet. I've sanded down the skirts and played with a couple trial mixes on some scrap poplar but have not come close to the correct match. It seems odd to me that Brunswick would choose to use one species of wood for the skirts, another for the pedestals, and I'm assuming both would match the formica rails. Seems like a difficult way to go to save a few bucks.
I stained my GCII last winter, the rail blinds were Maple and the outsides of the the pedestals were Poplar. I used the same stain on both, just less coats and soak time on the Poplar. It turned out real well.
staining poplar
Hi,
Brunswick wasn't saving a few bucks.... they were saving thousands!
Having said that..
This is in defense of a common manufacturing practice. I don't think Brunswick looks bad here... as in "on the cheap".
Staining poplar to look like another species is still a common practice.
Manufacturing the blinds using solid walnut or walnut veneer would have been dramatically more expensive.
Poplar machines easily, is pretty stable and takes stain well.
I'd say those blinds looked pretty good, in their day.
Dave
Hi,
Brunswick wasn't saving a few bucks.... they were saving thousands!
Having said that..
This is in defense of a common manufacturing practice. I don't think Brunswick looks bad here... as in "on the cheap".
Staining poplar to look like another species is still a common practice.
Manufacturing the blinds using solid walnut or walnut veneer would have been dramatically more expensive.
Poplar machines easily, is pretty stable and takes stain well.
I'd say those blinds looked pretty good, in their day.
Dave
Steve D,
It's your call on the prestain stuff... I found it wasn't needed. I'm sure if your using the original aprons they should take stain very easily. I'd say if you bought replacement poplar aprons, then it's probably a good idea to treat the fresh wood with prestain. I'm not an expert on staining...just trying to save you a little time and money. I didn't have to do anything with my legs or stretcher on my anniversary. I just used wood conditioner on them and polished the bands, so I can't really tell you how that stain combination will work on them. I would be curious to know for future reference if that stain combo works as well on the legs as it does on the aprons. You may be able to due some small test areas where the stretcher will cover it or under your bands if your planing on removing them.
Good Luck, Dean
It's your call on the prestain stuff... I found it wasn't needed. I'm sure if your using the original aprons they should take stain very easily. I'd say if you bought replacement poplar aprons, then it's probably a good idea to treat the fresh wood with prestain. I'm not an expert on staining...just trying to save you a little time and money. I didn't have to do anything with my legs or stretcher on my anniversary. I just used wood conditioner on them and polished the bands, so I can't really tell you how that stain combination will work on them. I would be curious to know for future reference if that stain combo works as well on the legs as it does on the aprons. You may be able to due some small test areas where the stretcher will cover it or under your bands if your planing on removing them.
Good Luck, Dean
Last edited:
Dean,
Will do, I thought I would get in the ball park first and then try it on the backside of one of the skirts. Steve
Will do, I thought I would get in the ball park first and then try it on the backside of one of the skirts. Steve
Got ya...check back a few posts ago. I have some info about the pre-stain. The forum police had to approve it, so it didn't show up for a few days.
Dean,
Thanks for the info on the stain pre-conditioner. I have several Minwax stains left over from my first attempts to match the rails. As luck would have it I have not been able to find any Sedona Red locally, so I ordered some online and am waiting for it to arrive.:thumbup:
Thanks for the info on the stain pre-conditioner. I have several Minwax stains left over from my first attempts to match the rails. As luck would have it I have not been able to find any Sedona Red locally, so I ordered some online and am waiting for it to arrive.:thumbup:
Thanks for the update Steve...I was wondering how you were making out.
Hey Steve149a , Were all waiting for some finished pictures of your table. Your probably too busy shooting on it:thumbup:
Last edited:
Table Finished -
Well… I’ve had the Anniversary together for about a month and man what a nice table. A buddy of mine contacted Jeremy Chambers and he came up from Chicago and assembled a Gold Crown and my Anniversary. Jeremy went WAY out of his way to help us out. I’d HIGHLY recommend Mr. Chambers to anyone needing table work done in the Midwest.
So here’s the Table spec’s - -
- Rails were redone by Mark Gregory (K66 Rubber and the sub-rails completely replaced). Most of the people on this site know, when rails go to Mark, they come back better than new. I’d agree.
- Rail resurfacing was done by Plank Road Cabinetry out of Nashotah Wisconsin. Ask for Steve, (Yes, another Steve working on Anniversary Tables) I had him replace the beat up rail Formica with Walnut veneer. He also did the skirts and ball box in Walnut for me. I talked to him and he’s open to more table work if you need anything done.
- The legs were wrapped in Walnut veneer and new leg skirts installed. The old skirts were pretty beat up.
- The support beam between the legs is covered in Walnut veneer.
- The pocket castings, score counters, and corner lowers were all Nickel plated.
With this being the sixth table I’ve owned, it is by far the best.
Oddly… I’m looking forward to the next table.
Thanks,
Steve
Well… I’ve had the Anniversary together for about a month and man what a nice table. A buddy of mine contacted Jeremy Chambers and he came up from Chicago and assembled a Gold Crown and my Anniversary. Jeremy went WAY out of his way to help us out. I’d HIGHLY recommend Mr. Chambers to anyone needing table work done in the Midwest.
So here’s the Table spec’s - -
- Rails were redone by Mark Gregory (K66 Rubber and the sub-rails completely replaced). Most of the people on this site know, when rails go to Mark, they come back better than new. I’d agree.
- Rail resurfacing was done by Plank Road Cabinetry out of Nashotah Wisconsin. Ask for Steve, (Yes, another Steve working on Anniversary Tables) I had him replace the beat up rail Formica with Walnut veneer. He also did the skirts and ball box in Walnut for me. I talked to him and he’s open to more table work if you need anything done.
- The legs were wrapped in Walnut veneer and new leg skirts installed. The old skirts were pretty beat up.
- The support beam between the legs is covered in Walnut veneer.
- The pocket castings, score counters, and corner lowers were all Nickel plated.
With this being the sixth table I’ve owned, it is by far the best.
Oddly… I’m looking forward to the next table.
Thanks,
Steve
Attachments
Last edited:
perfectpocketz
Banned
WOW....Steve the table looks awesome.....and thank you for the rail work.
And what a great choice using Jerimy Chambers for your table set up.....he's a top notch table mechanic...on any table.
Again...thanks....and have fun playing.
Mark Gregory
WOW!! You are one lucky lucky guy.Congrats on that table,it's beautiful!!