Another wood question. :)

Gideon

Registered
First, thats to those that responded to my last post. Someone mentioned Gilmer Woods for purchasing, I had just ran across that page after I posted that message, they really do have some amazing woods there! I spent the better part of my day looking through them. :)

I found another place "Cook Woods", link, that had what I hope I was looking for from a piece of Sapele wood, it was not the ribbon striped one as I posted in my last post, but instead the figure on it is refered to as "pommelle", they didnt have any pictures of it that they could email me but assured me that it was "pretty" price was good enough that if I decide that I do not like it I am not out a whole lot. In addition to that I purchased a piece of figured bubinga from them as well, one of the ones from the first set shown on the "individual" boards link on the page. Bought board "1G" to be precise.

But after purchasing the pieces I started to think if they were good woods to use in the making of a pool cue? This is something I had not considered too much other than the fact that if I wanted any burl woods that they might have voids in them that could affect things. Ive seen some cues made with burl woods, was just wondering the practicality of using them?

Something else I was wondering is stabilized wood use. I use stabilized wood myself for the knife handles on knives that I make, it works grat for that use. But I was wondering if anyone has used it for cue making? Would stabilized wood accept a finish? Would it affect the hit of the cue? (If anything I would think it would make it more stable hehe could not resist that).

Oh oh, couple more questions that have nothing to do with wood while I am here. This is going to be ther first cue that I have had made for me the others I have had have been bought second hand so I am rather excited about having my own made, as I am sure you can imagine. Something else I was trying to decide between was the joint, more tot he point the pin. I have seen an increasing amount of the glass pins. What are the advantages and drawbacks of these? Better or worse than steel?

OK I think that is it for now. :)

Just wondering others opinions, thanks for your time.
 

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Gideon said:
First, thats to those that responded to my last post. Someone mentioned Gilmer Woods for purchasing, I had just ran across that page after I posted that message, they really do have some amazing woods there! I spent the better part of my day looking through them. :)

I found another place "Cook Woods", link, that had what I hope I was looking for from a piece of Sapele wood, it was not the ribbon striped one as I posted in my last post, but instead the figure on it is refered to as "pommelle", they didnt have any pictures of it that they could email me but assured me that it was "pretty" price was good enough that if I decide that I do not like it I am not out a whole lot. In addition to that I purchased a piece of figured bubinga from them as well, one of the ones from the first set shown on the "individual" boards link on the page. Bought board "1G" to be precise.

But after purchasing the pieces I started to think if they were good woods to use in the making of a pool cue? This is something I had not considered too much other than the fact that if I wanted any burl woods that they might have voids in them that could affect things. Ive seen some cues made with burl woods, was just wondering the practicality of using them?

Something else I was wondering is stabilized wood use. I use stabilized wood myself for the knife handles on knives that I make, it works grat for that use. But I was wondering if anyone has used it for cue making? Would stabilized wood accept a finish? Would it affect the hit of the cue? (If anything I would think it would make it more stable hehe could not resist that).

Oh oh, couple more questions that have nothing to do with wood while I am here. This is going to be ther first cue that I have had made for me the others I have had have been bought second hand so I am rather excited about having my own made, as I am sure you can imagine. Something else I was trying to decide between was the joint, more tot he point the pin. I have seen an increasing amount of the glass pins. What are the advantages and drawbacks of these? Better or worse than steel?

OK I think that is it for now. :)

Just wondering others opinions, thanks for your time.


Are you going to try building this cue yourself? I don't know if many cue makers like building cues from wood supplied by the customer that may even be a little expermental. What is your price range for this cue?
 

Gideon

Registered
No way in heck I would try to make it myself. :) I would be lucky to be able to make a decent broom handle out of it. I have considered that a maker might not want the wood supplied, whether it be because he does not trust the wood or another reason, in which case it would at least give him a good idea of what it is that I am looking for, and if not use what I have then I can always get the wood stabilized and use it for knife handles. Price range is pretty open. The cue maker I am going to try and use has made several for a good friend of mine so I know how his cues hit/feel, and from looking at some of the cues he has made I get an idea of the range cash wise I am looking at knowing what I want and all I can guesstimate it to what I think is semi close to the cost, if not more than what it will actually cost.

I just got some mammoth ivory in today too. :) Inlays on a cue or knife handles, either way, its purty. :)
 

Gideon

Registered
RSB-Refugee said:
Gideon,

I like knives almost as much as cues. Do you have any pics of your knives?

Tracy


Well.. knife, singular. I've only done one so far. lol
But am working on another, and have orders for several already.

But here is a mediocre picture of the first one I did and sheath.
IMG_0700.jpg
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
Burls can be used if proper coring methods are applied.
A true "custom" cuemaker should have no problem using wood supplied by you. The main drawback will be a longer wait time if the wood needs to dry out a lot.
 

BLACKHEARTCUES

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Cook Woods

Gideon said:
First, thats to those that responded to my last post. Someone mentioned Gilmer Woods for purchasing, I had just ran across that page after I posted that message, they really do have some amazing woods there! I spent the better part of my day looking through them. :)

I found another place "Cook Woods", link, that had what I hope I was looking for from a piece of Sapele wood, it was not the ribbon striped one as I posted in my last post, but instead the figure on it is refered to as "pommelle", they didnt have any pictures of it that they could email me but assured me that it was "pretty" price was good enough that if I decide that I do not like it I am not out a whole lot. In addition to that I purchased a piece of figured bubinga from them as well, one of the ones from the first set shown on the "individual" boards link on the page. Bought board "1G" to be precise.

But after purchasing the pieces I started to think if they were good woods to use in the making of a pool cue? This is something I had not considered too much other than the fact that if I wanted any burl woods that they might have voids in them that could affect things. Ive seen some cues made with burl woods, was just wondering the practicality of using them?

Something else I was wondering is stabilized wood use. I use stabilized wood myself for the knife handles on knives that I make, it works grat for that use. But I was wondering if anyone has used it for cue making? Would stabilized wood accept a finish? Would it affect the hit of the cue? (If anything I would think it would make it more stable hehe could not resist that).

Oh oh, couple more questions that have nothing to do with wood while I am here. This is going to be ther first cue that I have had made for me the others I have had have been bought second hand so I am rather excited about having my own made, as I am sure you can imagine. Something else I was trying to decide between was the joint, more tot he point the pin. I have seen an increasing amount of the glass pins. What are the advantages and drawbacks of these? Better or worse than steel?

OK I think that is it for now. :)

Just wondering others opinions, thanks for your time.


I see a lot of wood sold by "COOK WOODS" on EBAY. I've stayed away from them, because they nearly always say that their wood is "AIR DRYED" & I don't personally know what they mean by that. How long has it been dryed & under what conditions. I've been once bitten & twice shy on "AIR DRYED" wood...JER
 

buddha162

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey that is one pretty knife!
I like the rings (are they called "rings" on a knife handle?)

-Roger
 
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