Though I can't dispute the fact that rails molded from the factory to have K55 rail rubber installed on them isn't the right way to go, replacing K55 with K55 rubber, but I've ran into several technicians work that insist on trying to make K66 rail rubber work, thereby screwing up the rails and the play of the tables they've worked on.
SO, in the event someone is going to insist on installing K66 rail rubber on rails designed for K55, the way you'd do it is as follows.
A: After removing the old rail rubber, make sure you clean the bevel surface of the sub-rail real clean, by that I mean sand down any high spots left from the glue/rail rubber ect...
B: You're going to need a planer for this next step. In a jig mounted in the planer opening, plane down a piece of poplar wood to 1/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide by 48" long, in such a way that the top thickness of the wood maintains its 1/8" inch thickness, while the bottom thickness is reduced to 1/16" of an inch.
C: When finished, glue the pieces of wood to the face of the sub-rail bevel so that they in fact work as an adapter plate for the new K66 rail rubber. Cut the overhanging ends of the wood off to match the sub-rail profile, profile the adapter plate at the top and bottom to match the sub-rail, and you're done.
The purpose of the adapter plate is to make up for the 1/8" inch loss of rubber in the difference between K55(1 1/4") and K66(1 1/8") in order to maintain the right playing surface, and to lower the 21 degree bevel of the K55 rail bevel to the needed 18 degree bevel for K66 rail rubber placing the point of the cushion at 1 7/16" of an inch, and to bring the relief bevel at the bottom of the rail up flush with the bottom of the rail rubber.
Go ahead and reinstall the K66 rail rubber, and finish the rails as you normally would.
To go from K66 to K55 is a whole different story, I'm not even getting into that here on AZ.
Glen
SO, in the event someone is going to insist on installing K66 rail rubber on rails designed for K55, the way you'd do it is as follows.
A: After removing the old rail rubber, make sure you clean the bevel surface of the sub-rail real clean, by that I mean sand down any high spots left from the glue/rail rubber ect...
B: You're going to need a planer for this next step. In a jig mounted in the planer opening, plane down a piece of poplar wood to 1/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide by 48" long, in such a way that the top thickness of the wood maintains its 1/8" inch thickness, while the bottom thickness is reduced to 1/16" of an inch.
C: When finished, glue the pieces of wood to the face of the sub-rail bevel so that they in fact work as an adapter plate for the new K66 rail rubber. Cut the overhanging ends of the wood off to match the sub-rail profile, profile the adapter plate at the top and bottom to match the sub-rail, and you're done.
The purpose of the adapter plate is to make up for the 1/8" inch loss of rubber in the difference between K55(1 1/4") and K66(1 1/8") in order to maintain the right playing surface, and to lower the 21 degree bevel of the K55 rail bevel to the needed 18 degree bevel for K66 rail rubber placing the point of the cushion at 1 7/16" of an inch, and to bring the relief bevel at the bottom of the rail up flush with the bottom of the rail rubber.
Go ahead and reinstall the K66 rail rubber, and finish the rails as you normally would.
To go from K66 to K55 is a whole different story, I'm not even getting into that here on AZ.
Glen
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