Any extensions that natively work with Schon?

chuckpilegis said:
Plastic or rubber washer? or maybe something below

www.cuefits.com

3/8-16 PLUG Cue Bumper Extension Kit

The listing is for 1 set pool cue 3/8-16 PLUG bumper extension kitAluminum pin installation thread: 5/16-14Head Diameter: 0.866
www.cuefits.com www.cuefits.com
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My issue with those is that you can get very little torque on the tiny allen wrench you need before stripping them out. There's also no relief cut for the rubber, so if it's not bottomed out, you have rubber between the aluminum and the buttcap when you tighten it down.
 
Busbee Cue said:
With some slight tweaks this should work.
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I like that. Probably need a slight spacer under the machined portion to set the protrusion of the bumper right and have it bottom on the internal lip of the Schon, but that would be simple to figure out. I also like the extra length of the screw as with those others shown there is not much screw going into the butt cap and I feel the screw should extend past the butt cap like Schon screws do.
 
muskyed said:
I like that. Probably need a slight spacer under the machined portion to set the protrusion of the bumper right and have it bottom on the internal lip of the Schon, but that would be simple to figure out. I also like the extra length of the screw as with those others shown there is not much screw going into the butt cap and I feel the screw should extend past the butt cap like Schon screws do.
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This version of the cuefits part looks (to my untrained eye) to be the same thing as that other picture. They do mention needing a spacer for cues with a recess in the butt cap. https://www.cuefits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=310

The other advantage to that cuefits one for me is they sell a matching extension. I don't have the tools to make my own, so I'm leaning this route.

They do provide dimensions, so if I can get the current weight bolt out, I can use some calipers to see if it's worth an order.
 
muskyed said:
Here is that exact Jacoby bumper you show on a Schon. This is why I said it will not work on a Schon. The inset on a Schon butcap is .380, the Jacoby rubber is about .380, then it needs to stick out about that much also. Your cues must not be Schons. Nice cues though.View attachment 809375
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Is that a ltd-202. I remember I bought one on here from a guy that had a online store. Under 700 brand new. And a stl-1 for under 350. They shot ok. Looked better once I had the wraps changed
 
Top 2 were some of my older schons

1740587570138.png
 
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Beautiful cues. Not sure how ,if you did, get that stock Jacoby bumper to fit like that as on my 4 Schons it fits as shown in my photo.
Ps, if you ever think of selling the second one down, contact me.
Edit, sorry I didn't see your other question.
4 Schons, 3rd from right SP, 4th from right Elite, 5th from right LTD, 6th from right LTD
fgke0wtq.jpg
 
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spoons said:
This version of the cuefits part looks (to my untrained eye) to be the same thing as that other picture. They do mention needing a spacer for cues with a recess in the butt cap. https://www.cuefits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=310

The other advantage to that cuefits one for me is they sell a matching extension. I don't have the tools to make my own, so I'm leaning this route.

They do provide dimensions, so if I can get the current weight bolt out, I can use some calipers to see if it's worth an order.
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Appreciate everyone's help so far.

Now I'm struggling more than I ever expected to get the existing weight bolt out so I can take those measurements. It holds a magnet, so it appears to be steel. But despite all my efforts, I can't get the thing to budge.

I've tried screw drivers clamped to a workbench, and the metal flat bar rig that they use in this video to no avail.

I assume there's adhesive on the threads of the weight bolt, so I'm thinking I need to soften that to get it to break loose. I don't own a soldering iron like they suggest in the video, so I tried heating a nail stuck into the weight bolt to try to replicate the soldering iron trick, and got nowhere.

Anyone have other tricks to try? I'd hate to buy a soldering iron just for this purpose.
 
 
I think you would need one with a tip more like this. $20 home depot. Quite honestly I would be really nervous doing this as that screw really isn't going into wood for a bit, if at all.
Edit, just looked at their video and they use a fine tip like you posted, so forget what I posted. I'm lucky as I go near there every 2 months or so and would just stop in for them to do.
 
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Okay, resurrecting this thread from a couple weeks ago since I was finally able to get that weight bolt out. I've got measurements for my cue, and a decent idea what I'm working with now. But I also have some more questions:

The inside looks pretty identical to this picture Sheldon posted:

1742791026138.png


My main concern based on the comments here so far is making sure I adequately support the butt cap. How critical is it that the butt cap is fully filled edge to edge, top to bottom? The reason I ask -

The bumpers on all of these extension kits are smaller than the factory Schon by a smidge (1/32 of an inch or so), and most of them include some kind of step down in width from the bumper to the metal head of the bolt. Should I be concerned about the space that would create in the butt cap?

The factory bumper completely fills the butt cap, and sits directly up against the weight bolt. The butt cap is 1 1/64 in wide, and 1/2 inch deep from end of the butt cap to the top of the existing weight bolt. Assuming I'm going to need to add some kind of washer or spacer to get the bumper protrusion correct, I like this option from Cuefits the best. It should give me enough length in the bolt to secure the thing, and it's a tad lighter than my existing weight bolt, so the added weight of the washer should roughly bring it back to the current weight and balance of my cue.

But looking at the listed measurements, I'm not sure it's a good idea. It seems too small? Am I overthinking this?

1742791924779.png
 
Also, for anyone reading this thread in the future, the way I got the bolt out was to use a borrowed soldering iron with a thin pointed tip, and heat the bolt up like they showed in the Schon video I posted earlier. Then I mimicked the bench mounted flat bar in the Schon video by clamping a 1/2 in wide demolition screw driver to my work bench.

It took about two minutes total heating time to get mine to break loose. But I did it in shorter bursts because I was paranoid about overheating and damaging something. I bet if I'd done one solid 60 second heat cycle it would have been enough.
 
Sheldon said:
View attachment 814460View attachment 814462View attachment 814463View attachment 814461View attachment 814462
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That looks like a slick insert, and once you can fit the predator bumper, options are plentiful. A couple questions if you don't mind?

It looks like you also have the step down from the insert at the widest point to the piece just before the threads. Is that right? I assume as long as there's sufficient surface area making contact with the butt cap, a little space down there won't be a problem?

Also, (roughly) what does that combo of carbon fiber and bumper weigh? I've got about 1.5 oz to replace between the bolt, screw and bumper. That's part of why I think the Cuefits setup might work for me, because all in, I would probably land about even with my current weight.

Thanks for this!
 
spoons said:
That looks like a slick insert, and once you can fit the predator bumper, options are plentiful. A couple questions if you don't mind?

It looks like you also have the step down from the insert at the widest point to the piece just before the threads. Is that right? I assume as long as there's sufficient surface area making contact with the butt cap, a little space down there won't be a problem?

Also, (roughly) what does that combo of carbon fiber and bumper weigh? I've got about 1.5 oz to replace between the bolt, screw and bumper. That's part of why I think the Cuefits setup might work for me, because all in, I would probably land about even with my current weight.

Thanks for this!
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The buttcap is bored precisely and the phenolic plug was machined to match. I left the step just a few thousandths short of the bored hole so that the plug put a good amount of pressure on the large bore of the buttcap when cranked tight. I put a step in the plug so the phenolic would be at a larger diameter where the weak point is. Without that step the ID of the threads would be a weak spot. I was able to keep the cue's weight the same, but I can't recall exactly what the plug and bumper weighed.
 
Got it, that makes sense. I know the best thing to do is get something custom made, but I might just be okay with close enough as long as I'm not compromising the cue too much. I might take a flier on that cuefits part, and trust that I can make something work.

This has been a super helpful thread. Appreciate you all sharing your knowledge!
 
spoons said:
Got it, that makes sense. I know the best thing to do is get something custom made, but I might just be okay with close enough as long as I'm not compromising the cue too much. I might take a flier on that cuefits part, and trust that I can make something work.

This has been a super helpful thread. Appreciate you all sharing your knowledge!
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Look at the bottom left pic, looks like Schon with spacer, Inexpensive way out, under 50.00 all in
 
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