Anyone have this type ringwork made up

[Cue Crazy]

I'm just scouting for a ring or 2 to match a Helmstetter handle. It looks pretty much like the ringwork in ducs second post of this thread- http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=77854 the second post, second picture, on the green 8 point cue. The one with the green in between the black. I need to make sure, because he is still shooting with the cue and I don't have It in hand, but I believe there are two single black strips between each set that have the green. I think there are 4 of the sandwiched pieces with 2 solid blacks spaced between each of the 4.

No biggy, I should be able to make this ringwork from what I have, without too much of a problem, but I know a few guys here have different billet stocked, and thought I would ask, just in case someone already has some made up, and could save Me the effort, as I only need one or 2 rings.

Thanks Guys , Greg

 

[Mcues]

Ring work

Greg,


I probably have those rings made up but a better picture of what you actually need would help.


Mario

 

[Cue Crazy]

Greg,


I probably have those rings made up but a better picture of what you actually need would help.


Mario

Hey Thanks Mario, that's good news

The guy I'm doing the work for, lives and works at the poolhall My buddy owns, as they are both long time friends, so he's easy to catch. I saw him thursday, and looked at It real quick before I had to leave, but I had no camera, and he wasn't in a rush at the time. I should be over there again sometime before this thursday. I'll try to make that sooner then later, and take My camera so I can snap a picture, or I can teach my dad how to use My camera and have them snap a photo when he picks up the house work for me in the next couple of days.

Even if I could get something that was like that, but with maple in between the doubled up strips instead of the green, then I may be able to stain the maple in between the 4 points before finish. that's what I was gonna do if I ended up having to make them. I use some of those black strips in My ringwork, but i don't have any made up with the indexing doubled up like that. His also looked like it may be hair thinner then mine. He did say he just wanted something that matched closer then the shaft he has on there now, which is totally different, so something close to It may be good enough for him even if it's not a dead on match.

Anyhow I'll get a photo and get in touch with you about It. Thank You very much for offering to help.

Greg

 

[sliprock]

I might have some also. Mine is a maple ring with blk/grn/blk veneers in 8 positions. I only have the joint size. Let me know if it will help you out.

 

[Cue Crazy]

I might have some also. Mine is a maple ring with blk/grn/blk veneers in 8 positions. I only have the joint size. Let me know if it will help you out.

Thank You I'll Just post the picture here when I get one taken. I only need joint size for the shaft.

Greg

 

[Cue Crazy]

Here are some pictures. I was mistaken, there is only one black strip between the four sandwiched pieces. They look thinner then the black pieces surrounding the green or turquoise color. The pieces around the green color look like My usual 1/16 black strips, so they will work for that, but the single black strips in between only look half the thickness, and the only other black I have that's thin is some veneer I have, and that isn't even near small enough at about .045

I could probably hog the pocket out with a smaller endmill, and do a black epoxy fill, since It's so thin, or maybe I could sand the veneer to fit, but not sure if i can get a match for the turquoise that's close enough, would have to experiement to find that out.

Also I'm on 24 position indexing right now, and I can pickup the double slots, but seems like I'm gonna have to reposition the billet and recenter it to pickup the thin slots in the correct places.

Thanks , Greg

 

[Cue Crazy]

another picture

 

[sliprock]

Here are some pictures. I was mistaken, there is only one black strip between the four sandwiched pieces. They look thinner then the black pieces surrounding the green or turquoise color. The pieces around the green color look like My usual 1/16 black strips, so they will work for that, but the single black strips in between only look half the thickness, and the only other black I have that's thin is some veneer I have, and that isn't even near small enough at about .045

I could probably hog the pocket out with a smaller endmill, and do a black epoxy fill, since It's so thin, or maybe I could sand the veneer to fit, but not sure if i can get a match for the turquoise that's close enough, would have to experiement to find that out.

Also I'm on 24 position indexing right now, and I can pickup the double slots, but seems like I'm gonna have to reposition the billet and recenter it to pickup the thin slots in the correct places.

Thanks , Greg

Greg, it looks to me as though it's indexed in 8 position. From the pics, it looks like 4 positions have a single thin black veneer and 4 positions have a thick black/thin blue/thick black combo. Can't the small slots be cut indexing 6 spots per cut, then change to the thicker cutter, index the billet 3 more spots, then cut the thick slots indexing 6 spots each. Instead of cutting a double slot, I normally cut one wide slot and stack the veneers. It gives the appearance of a double slot. Good Luck

Looking at the pic again, you might be able to do a black/black/blue/black/black veneer stack instead of trying to find a thicker black veneer.

 

[Mcues]

ringwork

Merry Christmas! IM your address.


Santa

 

[KJ Cues]

In the length of time this search has run, the billet could have been built, the ring-work installed, shaft finished and delivered.

So, my question is; do you really have the clients best interests at heart? Just how long do you expect them to wait while you 'find' a ring? That billet could have been built within 2 hrs. of receiving the cue. There's nothing complicated about the ring and building a billet isn't rocket science. All I'm saying is, just do right by the client. He's entrusted you with his cue. Git ur done.

PS. There is nothing in that ring that requires a '6 space' or 60 degree index. Everything is done in 4s. You start with a maple tube, cut your slots and inlay your veneers. Bingo, you're done. Good Luck, KJ

 

[Cue Crazy]

In the length of time this search has run, the billet could have been built, the ring-work installed, shaft finished and delivered.

So, my question is; do you really have the clients best interests at heart? Just how long do you expect them to wait while you 'find' a ring? That billet could have been built within 2 hrs. of receiving the cue. There's nothing complicated about the ring and building a billet isn't rocket science. All I'm saying is, just do right by the client. He's entrusted you with his cue. Git ur done.

PS. There is nothing in that ring that requires a '6 space' or 60 degree index. Everything is done in 4s. You start with a maple tube, cut your slots and inlay your veneers. Bingo, you're done. Good Luck, KJ

Well I never said I was Larry the cable guy, and I'm not so sure I would want him working on one of My cues anyhow . What it takes me is what it takes. It's been three days since I posted this, hardly an lifetime or anything. Also if you read, I said the guy had the cue on him, and it was not in My possesion at the time. I also mentioned he was a friend I'm doing this for, as a favor, not a client. normally I wouldn't mess with this, because i'm only setup to do the ringwork I use in My cues. Installing it, matching, and finishing it to the handle is another story.

I also never said I was setup to match any ringwork regardless of how easy It may look to you. I said I could do it, but don't have materials on hand at the time that I need, but could compromise a close match, which is all he wants. Although that would be a hassle in my present situation, because yes it is out of my norm.

Ok to the indexing. the black is 1/32, and I'm setup for 1/16. upon further examination, The sandwiched pieces actually contain a total of four 1/32 black strips per set, there is a black veneer or it is stained black between each 2 and then the turq. colored piece in the middle of those. What I ended up doing was cutting (2) 1/16 slots for the sandwiched sets, leaving a piece of maple inbetween to stain, which i have found a color match for. You cannot really tell the difference. I just noticed Myself that there was veneer between both 1/32 strips in each set. Well, to get the proper spacing for the piece of maple inbetween to be the right thickness when turned to .840 I had to space two knotches sided By side on My indexing. Well if ya do the math you will see that it leaves 4 slots inbetween, when I would need an odd number to hit inbetween in the middle to cut the one 1/32 slot in between the sandwiched pieces. If there were 2 slots between each set, then they would fall in line. Like I mentioned not a huge problem, but I will have to reset My piece of billet, to pick those slots up. Even then I can cut those slots 1/32 to match, but the thinnest black veneer I have on hand is .040, and that's not gonna get it unless i sand it down, as I said I could epoxy fill, but that's not really My cup of joe. Would you rush quality for the sake of time in that situation? Especially when the owner is not in a rush at all, and has made that perfectly clear to You. He Has a shaft for the cue, that he's been playing with for some time now, the ringwork simply doesn't match, so he was inquiring about getting a close match to his handle. It's not like he is doing without his playing cue for any long period of time.


On the time cutting the slots out, maybe you have a cnc, or just have a setup that cuts faster then mine, but I spent 4 hours today running passes on only 8 of the slots with a 1/16 endmill. I could have risked going deeper, but that would increase the odds of that thin maple snapping as it gets thinner, or risk going too deep, smoking the bit up in the middle of a pass, and ruining the billet, then having to start all over. in other words i have reasons for doing things the way i do, and don't need anyone trying to degrade My ability. I am limited to what I have on hand, and most of My work is done manually. I try to do the best possible with what I have.

I'm sorry If i seem offended, but frankly I am alittle, Your post seems like nothing of use except to degrade someone else. Maybe you don't have better things to do with your time, but I do, then to have to explain my whole situation to respond to this load of crap (which I have done on here many of time already, long before you ever showed up, or you may would know this already). To suggest that I didn't have My clients best interest at heart is ridiculous. Sounds like you would suggest I should do a quick hack job for the sake of time. I don't think that's what he wants.

Thankfully there was someone else in this thread that actually offered to help, and for that I am very thankfull. all Your post did was take time away from My schedule to have to respond to your overly bold question.

I guarentee My work, otherwise i don't take it on in the first place if over My head or beyond what i have to work with. Alot of things are learned the hardway, but that was the reason for Me posting this thread in the first place. Not over My head, but the time involved to get what i needed to make this.

I'm gonna act Like you didn't come around my tree poking your nose around, and try to forget this. I assure you It's the wrong one to be barking up. Go look for trouble somewhere else, and find another to pick on if you have nothing better to do, or have nothing helpfull to add. Nothing personal, your just picking the wrong guy, and I have never done a thing to you to deserve that as far as I know. You can try to deny, but I have a good idea of what your true intentions were, and i think they were alittle less then noble. Again i'm going to try and forget this, and not take offense any farther. I hope you will let me do that. If you don't understand why I took offense then try to imagine if the shoe was on the other foot. how would you see that question.

Sliprock suggested what he would do, which I can apprietiate, and i could hardly take offense to one thing he said, cause he didn't feel the need to add any rude remarks as to ones best interest. he seemed sincere in trying to help. I am thankfull to both him and Mario for their help. Everyone's situation is different in both how they are setup or how they go about doing things.

Greg

 

[KJ Cues]

Sorry Greg,
Didn't mean to offend you. You actually took that better than you could have, for the most part. I realized later that I could have worded that differently. I meant no offense to you, your abilities, your techniques or processes. What I was trying to do was get a spark under you to get you going. That spark apparently turned into a blaze.

Where I was coming from was to put myself in the position of your friend's advocate. The shoe on the other foot so to speak. Usually, when a job comes through the door, the client wants it back yesterday. I didn't know that you could take all the time you needed. Generally, I don't have that luxury. My bad. You presented your job and I took it to mean that you needed to get it done (maybe quickly). I found it very odd, that after 3 days you were still discussing veneer sizes. Hence the phrase, 'Git ur done'. Anymore, that's pretty much a universal phrase. That certainly wasn't meant to imply that you're anything like Larry, The Cable Guy. Not that he's a bad guy, he's pretty likeable actually. Anyway, I assumed you were involved in a business arrangement and not a 'government job'. Again, my bad.

No, my intention was not to come sniffing around your tree just to get in your case. I was considering what the client would be thinking had this been business and he's waiting on his cue. I have an overactive sense of protecting the client's interests; any client. That's why I said 'just do right by your client'.

If, at this point, you would allow me to offer some help that you might find constructive, I think I can offer some tips that will save you some time & grief. I've built many billets and don't mind sharing info. First of all, I wouldn't mill around the maple that you intend to stain. That little piece will be incredibly weak and probably won't stand the inlay process. I'd mill that entire section out & inlay those veneers as a single unit. You're talking 5 veneers @ approx. .032" ea. That's a slot of only .160". That's not unrealistic.

No, I don't use CNC. Here's a pic of what I do use and it allows me a great deal of flexibility. It's a Bridgeport type mill with pwr.feed. Mounted on the table is an inexpensive index fixture holding an arbor with a short pc. of blk. phenolic ready to be slotted with an endmill. Since I don't make billets longer than 3", no tailstock is needed. You'll notice that the fixture is keyed on the bottom. This allows me to setup & breakdown in minutes and know that I'm true to the table every time. One big advantage this method has over the winged slot cutter that some guys use is that I can vary the width of the slot, even if I don't have the correct size endmill, by moving the table on the 'y' axis for the return pass. If, in these pics, you see anything that you think would make your job easier, please feel free to use it.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc260/kjcues/indexkey.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc260/kjcues/indexer.jpg

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc260/kjcues/Billets.jpg

For what it's worth, I feel pretty bad about getting you so upset. There was a lot of misunderstanding that I don't care to re-hash. If, as you say, you'd rather forget it and put it behind you, I'd be very grateful.

Respectfully, KJ

 

[Cue Crazy]

You know, I have to admitt, You suprised me, I expected You to either not respond, or respond in a negative way. Either of which I probably would have lost some respect for you over. Anyone that Man enough to say I'm sorry and let things be as they may, I have much respect for.

Since you were able man up, let me say I'm sorry if I over re-acted, and explain why i did-

I'm not overly sensitive to someone being critical over most things towards me, whether I'm wrong or not, because I will never claim to know everything, but when it comes to ethical issues I can go eitherway. probably for the same reason you felt the way you did in asking the question. It's a given to Me that most decent cue guys feel that strongly about honesty and integrity, having one's best interest at heart, etc., and I am no different, so that's where i seem to get offended, and draw a line in the sand. I'm happy that after reviewing, you understand why, because everyone may would not. You could tell me I talk too much, and I would probably aggree with ya, and not be offended at all if said in a polite way, because it is something i'm aware, but only because I'm passionate about this, and have been for many years, and I have alot to learn still yet.

Yes I can definatly forget It ever happened, No hard feelings at all bud. I can respect anyone that is willing to admitt mistake, whether intentional or not. Many people are too pridefull to do that unfortunately, so It is something I have respect for, and someone that I can get along with. There are times I have still done that when I didn't even feel I was in the wrong, but did so to save a friendship, even when they couldn't man up theirself when they were probably more in the wrong then I if any at all. I just think that's part of being a man, can't go through life hating everyone. I'm not one that always tries to avoid confrontation, but I can appologise, and act like it never happened providing no major harm is done. I don't see any harm done here. besides that after my rant I read your post again, and although i saw the questions the way I did, and they seemed clear enough to me, the rest of the post did seem out of context to what I was thinking about in My mind. Again if It did not come out the way You meant, and i just mistook it the wrong way then my appologies.


On the strips , I was worried about cutting the maple too thin also, I guess My 2 indexing holes just happen to have the right amount spacing, because i just did pull it off. I got a tight fit, and none of the v-strips of maple seems to want to breakout. should have no problem glueing them. That was one of the reasons It took me so long just to do those eight slots, I was only doing 20thous max per pass going both ways per slot.It was tricky even at only 20thou, everytime a sliver would bind before kicking out, I thought one of them were gonna snap off. I actually was able to go deeper then I thought I would be able to though with them being so close. I figured on bottoming them out just under .840, but I ended up being able to go deeper then that without getting into the ID area, so they should be pretty much good for any diameter joint. The strips fit snug but are easy to put in and pull out at the same time, and there is no seam at all that I can see. really they came out perfect so far. I checked what the thickness of the maple would be at .840, and It looked as if it would be the same thickness as that green strip in the handle. Mario is kind enough to send me a couple of his, so i'm gonna hold off before doing the single strips in 1/32, and see how close his match first. If they are a good match then I may just use his, and do the other four points of indexing as double 1/16 like i have already cut into the billet. you can see from the picture above that I have the 8 slot single also. Thought the may give me something to stack with those for a different ring pattern.

Another reason I hadn't actually gotton started on what I did do earlier then i did was because I was trying some wing cutters out that I had purchased to try on shafts recently. They weren't cutting a square groove though, they tapered out toward the OD, and were sloppy IMO. I guess it was the shape of the cutter. I was wondering where i could get good cutters that will fit 1/4 and 1/16 sheet material snugly. i don't like relying on glue filling in any gap at all in My billet. probably one of the reasons I have stuck to what I use, because i have some 1/16 chip breakers that make a perfect fit. I have been doing Mine on a lathe.

I like your setup, It's nice. I have an extra indexer just like that one, and I have a mini mill (actually the cue in that picture is propped up against it), so I would need a mandrel, and might have to make a jig plate to get enough travel with that huge indexer, but i could probaly do that with It. I like the idea of being able to fit the pocket to the piece instead of the other way around. I could cut the pocket alot faster too, and if like in this situation I could easily cut the pocket to fit the stacked material.

Anyway all is forgiven & out of mind. Thanks for the suggestions and pictures.

Greg

 

[MVPCues]

You could tell me I talk too much, and I would probably aggree with ya, and not be offended at all if said in a polite way, because it is something i'm aware, but only because I'm passionate about this, and have been for many years, and I have alot to learn still yet.
Greg

What? You talk too much?? I don't understand...what exactly are you getting at?



Your friend,

Kelly

 

[Cue Crazy]

What? You talk too much?? I don't understand...what exactly are you getting at?



Your friend,

Kelly

Yeah I know, hard to believe Huh? rotfl, because i knew that one was coming..


Greg

 

[rhncue]

You know, I have to admitt, You suprised me, I expected You to either not respond, or respond in a negative way. Either of which I probably would have lost some respect for you over. Anyone that Man enough to say I'm sorry and let things be as they may, I have much respect for.

Since you were able man up, let me say I'm sorry if I over re-acted, and explain why i did-

I'm not overly sensitive to someone being critical over most things towards me, whether I'm wrong or not, because I will never claim to know everything, but when it comes to ethical issues I can go eitherway. probably for the same reason you felt the way you did in asking the question. It's a given to Me that most decent cue guys feel that strongly about honesty and integrity, having one's best interest at heart, etc., and I am no different, so that's where i seem to get offended, and draw a line in the sand. I'm happy that after reviewing, you understand why, because everyone may would not. You could tell me I talk too much, and I would probably aggree with ya, and not be offended at all if said in a polite way, because it is something i'm aware, but only because I'm passionate about this, and have been for many years, and I have alot to learn still yet.

Yes I can definatly forget It ever happened, No hard feelings at all bud. I can respect anyone that is willing to admitt mistake, whether intentional or not. Many people are too pridefull to do that unfortunately, so It is something I have respect for, and someone that I can get along with. There are times I have still done that when I didn't even feel I was in the wrong, but did so to save a friendship, even when they couldn't man up theirself when they were probably more in the wrong then I if any at all. I just think that's part of being a man, can't go through life hating everyone. I'm not one that always tries to avoid confrontation, but I can appologise, and act like it never happened providing no major harm is done. I don't see any harm done here. besides that after my rant I read your post again, and although i saw the questions the way I did, and they seemed clear enough to me, the rest of the post did seem out of context to what I was thinking about in My mind. Again if It did not come out the way You meant, and i just mistook it the wrong way then my appologies.


On the strips , I was worried about cutting the maple too thin also, I guess My 2 indexing holes just happen to have the right amount spacing, because i just did pull it off. I got a tight fit, and none of the v-strips of maple seems to want to breakout. should have no problem glueing them. That was one of the reasons It took me so long just to do those eight slots, I was only doing 20thous max per pass going both ways per slot.It was tricky even at only 20thou, everytime a sliver would bind before kicking out, I thought one of them were gonna snap off. I actually was able to go deeper then I thought I would be able to though with them being so close. I figured on bottoming them out just under .840, but I ended up being able to go deeper then that without getting into the ID area, so they should be pretty much good for any diameter joint. The strips fit snug but are easy to put in and pull out at the same time, and there is no seam at all that I can see. really they came out perfect so far. I checked what the thickness of the maple would be at .840, and It looked as if it would be the same thickness as that green strip in the handle. Mario is kind enough to send me a couple of his, so i'm gonna hold off before doing the single strips in 1/32, and see how close his match first. If they are a good match then I may just use his, and do the other four points of indexing as double 1/16 like i have already cut into the billet. you can see from the picture above that I have the 8 slot single also. Thought the may give me something to stack with those for a different ring pattern.

Another reason I hadn't actually gotton started on what I did do earlier then i did was because I was trying some wing cutters out that I had purchased to try on shafts recently. They weren't cutting a square groove though, they tapered out toward the OD, and were sloppy IMO. I guess it was the shape of the cutter. I was wondering where i could get good cutters that will fit 1/4 and 1/16 sheet material snugly. i don't like relying on glue filling in any gap at all in My billet. probably one of the reasons I have stuck to what I use, because i have some 1/16 chip breakers that make a perfect fit. I have been doing Mine on a lathe.

I like your setup, It's nice. I have an extra indexer just like that one, and I have a mini mill (actually the cue in that picture is propped up against it), so I would need a mandrel, and might have to make a jig plate to get enough travel with that huge indexer, but i could probaly do that with It. I like the idea of being able to fit the pocket to the piece instead of the other way around. I could cut the pocket alot faster too, and if like in this situation I could easily cut the pocket to fit the stacked material.

Anyway all is forgiven & out of mind. Thanks for the suggestions and pictures.

Greg

Greg, I used a lathe to make tubes of deco-rings for years and years and I thought it was very easy. I did it a couple of different ways depending on the lathe I was using. On my general use lathe, which has a rear chuck, I mounted a plate below the rear chuck and would rest the indexer on it and locking the nose of the indexer in the rear chuck. In this way I could put my stock in the front chuck and use the indexer in the back to index. I then would use a router with a straight bit, coming in sideways, and cut my slot. I would use a 1/32, 1/16 or a 1/8 straight bit to cut the slots and if the slot was a little to narrow I would use the indexer to adjust the position of the material one or two degrees for a good fit. On another lathe that I just set up for nothing but making deco-rings, I took off the chuck, mounted the indexer at the proper height on the bed facing toward the rear and then put my dowel between the indexer and the tail-stock and used the lathes feed to move the router to cut my grooves. I would turn my dowel down to around an inch in diameter and then turn one end down to about .680 to .700 so that I would know what depth to cut my grooves down to. I used this set-up until I started using the CNC to make the grooves. Although I have a mill, I never used it for cutting deco-ring grooves because it wasn't fast enough for using the small endmills without breakage.

On that deco-ring that you are asking about. I would never try cutting two grooves and leaving the thin center piece standing alone. I would glue up the all of the veneers the same as making mitered veneer points, and then cut them into strips around 3/16" in width before I started making my grooves, mike them for thickness and then cut the grooves to fit.

Dick

 

[KJ Cues]

Thanx Greg,
I appreciate it. You've got good attitude.

 

[Cue Crazy]

Greg, I used a lathe to make tubes of deco-rings for years and years and I thought it was very easy. I did it a couple of different ways depending on the lathe I was using. On my general use lathe, which has a rear chuck, I mounted a plate below the rear chuck and would rest the indexer on it and locking the nose of the indexer in the rear chuck. In this way I could put my stock in the front chuck and use the indexer in the back to index. I then would use a router with a straight bit, coming in sideways, and cut my slot. I would use a 1/32, 1/16 or a 1/8 straight bit to cut the slots and if the slot was a little to narrow I would use the indexer to adjust the position of the material one or two degrees for a good fit. On another lathe that I just set up for nothing but making deco-rings, I took off the chuck, mounted the indexer at the proper height on the bed facing toward the rear and then put my dowel between the indexer and the tail-stock and used the lathes feed to move the router to cut my grooves. I would turn my dowel down to around an inch in diameter and then turn one end down to about .680 to .700 so that I would know what depth to cut my grooves down to. I used this set-up until I started using the CNC to make the grooves. Although I have a mill, I never used it for cutting deco-ring grooves because it wasn't fast enough for using the small endmills without breakage.

On that deco-ring that you are asking about. I would never try cutting two grooves and leaving the thin center piece standing alone. I would glue up the all of the veneers the same as making mitered veneer points, and then cut them into strips around 3/16" in width before I started making my grooves, mike them for thickness and then cut the grooves to fit.

Dick

That's basically How I've been doing mine so far with the use of straight bits, only with a dremel, but My lathe has 24 positions. I guess I could use the import indexer still yet with it through the chucks or the other way around If I got the height set correctly, and could pickup more positions that way. I use the powerfeed also, much smoother for sure, and have a limit switch hooked up for running shafts out which is also nice for doing these too. I haven't tried moving It yet like you say to get the fit though. I'd probably need more indexing positions for that huh?


I aggree would much rather being stacking them in there, then this route, mainly because of how slow I had to go, but after feeling these mocked up and after the fact, I'm confident they will be plenty strong enough after glue, but yeah much easier & faster to stack them in, and less risk getting them cut without snapping the maple strip during cutting.

Here's some pics of where I had gotton to so far. I do them alittle different then some. Yeah I know it has not been bored out yet, and I understand the advantages to that, but I have no issues with the spacing running out on me, as long as I have the piece dialed in when I bore them and chop rings off. I like the option of leaving them open to fit different size tenons, so I bore alittle at a time and chop them off as I go. The way I do things now is not set in stone, just the way I'm going about them now. Like you have done over the years, I'm sure I will continue to try many different things & methods along the way along the way.

Thanks For the input Dick,



Greg

 

[rhncue]

That's basically How I've been doing mine so far with the use of straight bits, only with a dremel, but My lathe has 24 positions. I guess I could use the import indexer still yet with it through the chucks or the other way around If I got the height set correctly, and could pickup more positions that way. I use the powerfeed also, much smoother for sure, and have a limit switch hooked up for running shafts out which is also nice for doing these too. I haven't tried moving It yet like you say to get the fit though. I'd probably need more indexing positions for that huh?


I aggree would much rather being stacking them in there, then this route, mainly because of how slow I had to go, but after feeling these mocked up and after the fact, I'm confident they will be plenty strong enough after glue, but yeah much easier & faster to stack them in, and less risk getting them cut without snapping the maple strip during cutting.

Here's some pics of where I had gotton to so far. I do them alittle different then some. Yeah I know it has not been bored out yet, and I understand the advantages to that, but I have no issues with the spacing running out on me, as long as I have the piece dialed in when I bore them and chop rings off. I like the option of leaving them open to fit different size tenons, so I bore alittle at a time and chop them off as I go. The way I do things now is not set in stone, just the way I'm going about them now. Like you have done over the years, I'm sure I will continue to try many different things & methods along the way along the way.

Thanks For the input Dick,



Greg

I never bore my dowels until the inlays have been glued in and the dowel turned to around .900. This insures that the bore is concentric.

Those cheap indexers have 360 increments so by moving one degree at a time can get you real close. Trying to move ten or fifteen degrees at a time wouldn't get it.

Dick

 

[rhncue]

That's basically How I've been doing mine so far with the use of straight bits, only with a dremel, but My lathe has 24 positions. I guess I could use the import indexer still yet with it through the chucks or the other way around If I got the height set correctly, and could pickup more positions that way. I use the powerfeed also, much smoother for sure, and have a limit switch hooked up for running shafts out which is also nice for doing these too. I haven't tried moving It yet like you say to get the fit though. I'd probably need more indexing positions for that huh?


I agree would much rather being stacking them in there, then this route, mainly because of how slow I had to go, but after feeling these mocked up and after the fact, I'm confident they will be plenty strong enough after glue, but yeah much easier & faster to stack them in, and less risk getting them cut without snapping the maple strip during cutting.

Here's some pics of where I had gotton to so far. I do them alittle different then some. Yeah I know it has not been bored out yet, and I understand the advantages to that, but I have no issues with the spacing running out on me, as long as I have the piece dialed in when I bore them and chop rings off. I like the option of leaving them open to fit different size tenons, so I bore alittle at a time and chop them off as I go. The way I do things now is not set in stone, just the way I'm going about them now. Like you have done over the years, I'm sure I will continue to try many different things & methods along the way along the way.

Thanks For the input Dick,



Greg

I never bore my dowels until the inlays have been glued in and the dowel turned to around .900. This insures that the bore is concentric.

Those cheap indexers have 360 increments so by moving one degree at a time can get you real close. Trying to move ten or fifteen degrees at a time wouldn't get it.

Dick