Approximate Cost to Core out Break Cue?
- Thread starter Fore Rail
- Start date
In all honesty, seek to buy a new cue.
Michael Webb said:
The cue already weighs just under 18 ounces, I am looking to create more spd in my break by decreasing the weight. I could shop around & try to find a BK that is around 17, but that may take some time.
If I may ask,
what is the reasoning behind your answer?
It is dangerous to the cue to try and remove that much weight to a finished cue.
Think about this. The wood in your cue butt might weigh 13 ounces. This means you are planning on coring out over 1/7 of the butt. That is a lot of material to take out. Then something has to be pluged into the back to make the back solid again. If you were to bore it out to say 5/8" to where your butt sleeve and butt plate stays on provided they have the normal 3/4 tenon. With normal maple this means you will have to take about 16" out if you leave it hollow. If you foam fill it before plugging it, you will probably need to bore 20" or so. Not a job I would want.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
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cueman said:
That might would fall under one of the jobs we were discussing. I've had some simular come up, and considered the use of foam at one time, but my better judgement forced me to decline. Have you ever used the foam? Is the bore opening enough for expansion? I would not try It capped because that stuff is under alot of pressure from expansion. Probably enough to do some damage If not left open until It fully kicks.
I am getting alot of 18 to 21 ouncers, any tips on those? Usually a weight bolt is not enough to get me there, and don't want to go too deep. Some already have a deep bore but the standard bolts don't fit from too large of a bore, and don't feel any radial threads inside. I have some ideas of My own I may use, I have also heard all kinds of suggestions, even filling with lead, which I must admit does not thrill me. How would you guys approach that situation? Greg
As far as this situation, I have seen some that were bored out quite a bit, so much so that I was supprised the whole buttsleeve section did not snap right off, or just come apart, which I have also seen. I have really seen them thinned out quite a bit to where there was not much sidewall left. I would think material used in the cue would play into how It held up, and how much to take out to get desired weight, from what I've seen. Some would just fall apart right out the gate, others down the line, the odds are not worth the risk IMHO. I would not do It on such a cue with any real value either way. I would have to agree the best alternative is a cue built to spects from the get go, as there are alot of other facters to consider, such as forward balance and so on. Alittle can be a good thing, But you know what they say about too much of a good thing. Some Might not mind the extra balance difference in a break cue, but as for me I like just the right amount of forward, not too much and not too little, just like My shooter cue.
I have not sprayed foam up into the cue because I don't bore cues out like that. Remember I said that is a job I don't want. I am one of those hard headed cuemakers that won't do a job if I think it is a bad enough idea and I think I might get stuck with the reputation of having buthered someones cue. If the cue splits out or the butt sleeve gets damaged the cue-repairman gets the blame. I have a good business and don't need the money bad enough to take on real what I call dog jobs. I am lucky enough to be in an area with several cue repairmen and I tell the customer one of those guys might have the time to do it. I will say I have customers that fill cored butts with spray foam insulation like you seal around windows with. They let it expand out the back of the cue, then bore out a little of the foam and then glue in a plug of wood after foam is dry.
You haven't mentioned the cue specs like pin, joint material. You could change to a lighter pin, say titanium or G10 and the joint material if what you have is a stainless steel joint. Maybe a thinwall or phenolic would do. Keep in mind that this will alter the balance point so something has to be done at the butt end, change of weight bolt perhaps. That is, if you have an 18oz cue and you just need to take off 1oz or less.
Hadj
Hadj
cueman said:
I'm with you on that. I did not like that Idea too much either when approached with It, hence have not taken any on either myself. Thats the Reason I asked. Curious to others experience with them not knowing first hand Myself. Guess that's just one of things I don't want to learn about the hard way, and prefer to stay away from. Like you said the little bit of money, just not worth the bad rep, not to mention I don't want to do anything to a customer cue that I have to warn them about problems on in the first place, because I am genuinely concerned that the job be done in a profesional manner, and in some cases there are just too many Ifs. I am always having to turn away jobs that I cannot recomend doing. Sometimes practically have to refuse when put on the spot, but then guess that's the same old story we disscused before. You would be suprised how many would actually beg you to chop their cue Up. LOL. Well I guess you probably already know first hand.
I am even starting to think this way with retapers, to many variables to control down here in the south. If they want Me to keep the shaft for 6 months, and I know It's nice and stable in the shop, fine, but otherwise having second thoughts on even doing them, because i know eventually one will go bad on me. I am refering to the extreme tapers. I have another right now, and if It does not run really true between centers,Think I am just going to tell them They're better off with Me matching them with a shaft to fit theirs from the shop, and doing the taper on that. The reason is this If the shaft warps, or any other unforeseen circumstances take place from the drastic changes in the climate down here right now, then I will feel somewhat responsible for even taking the job on. I will probably end up giving the shaft to them anyway, and see no money, but a bunch of time wasted, not to mention they have a bad original shaft, and I'm out a shaft. I know it's not good bussiness as far as getting paid is concerned, as you guys have made that clear, and I do aggree, just that, unfortunatly, or fortunatly, depending on how you look at it, that is My nature. Guess I am still learning to deal with the customer in the best manner. That's why I really enjoy hearing you guys stories, and how you explain things to them, gives me a better idea of how to put It to them, without seeming unaprietiative of them bringing the work to me. Honered to get the work, just trying to do the smart thing. Greg
Your right, it's nice to get their repair work but the variables can be a nightmare that don't go away easy.
Yep, LOL, I need a customer relations department that will work for 20 cents an hour, then I would be cooking with gas instead of a sterno. Well I will just try to use My best judgement, and hope It pans out in the end, and continues to bring more work to us, without people taking the no goes the wrong way. Guess I just need to work on My comunication skills a tad bit. Greg