larry go back to your first post and read the first line,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,have you forgotten so quick,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,why cant you be civil?
Ask Fast Larry Any Question
- Thread starter fast larry
- Start date
fast larry
Banned
billfishhead said:
Sure, no problem, here is what I said, quote and paste and copy:
No, you want short answers or lessons go buy billiards digest and read their instruction. There are one paragraph lessons that don't say a damn thing or dont teach a damn thing. End of quote:
I stand by that, it's the damn truth. The problem is you guys can't handle the damn truth. I give it to you, you shoot the messenger. Your answer was No. What part of No did you not understand. You are not my boss and you do not command how I write. I can say No to you, it's easy, I just did now three times, No... You are not getting anything short out of me, period. If you don't like that stop reading what I write. There are 15 other post you can read, just avoid mine. Excuse me for not sugar coating that more. No is not rude, nor is No not being civil. No means no. No matter what I write, 50% of you are not going to like it, but half will, so I go forward with that. I cannot allow the 50% negative half to influence what I do as long as I am getting emails and calls telling me what I am doing is wanted and appreciated. Some people are buying what I do, even if you are not. You want to get into this deeper, pick up the phone and call me at 770-381-6609. My intent was not to be rude to you, my intent was to say No and stand behind that.
If I was a staff writer for BD you can write the editor and shut up my mouth and even alter my writing style. Soon to keep my job I adopt to the pressure and then you get nothing articles out of me that say nothing, do nothing and teach nothing. That is what you did to these people and that is why you get the crap out of them you get today. You want to write my editor and complain, his name is wonder dog, www.fastlarrypool.com, send him an email.
Pick up a pool and billiard magazine, it's even worse than billiards digest, read their instruction, then ask what did I really learn and did any of this really work. What can somebody really teach me in one paragraph about anything?
Did you bother to go find a golf digest magazine and see what real writers do and how much space they give the pro or teacher to expand on his ideas of how to play. They don't give one paragraph, they give three or four full pages with color photo's, that is teaching. That is what is wrong with pool and that is what I am trying to change which is in the pool players best interest.
well pardon me for not being specific enough,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the first line of the first post in this thread,,,,,,,,,,,,geesh
pooltablemech
Banned
Drop it bill...........it is like talking to a brick wall! It is USELESS! lol
fast larry
Banned
pooltablemech said:
You got that right, now there is a brief answer for you, 4 words.
For all of you with short attention spans.
Last edited:
H
homerfan666
Guest
Hey larry!!! I have a question.If a ball is touching the rail and ur cue call is exactly in front of it about 4 feet away, how do u get the objct ball to go side ways in to a corner pocket??
your stroke ..
Well it helps if you know and practice the correct stance and hold the cue the proper way to begin with. If you fluctuate in your stroke from day to day, look to your stance and how you are holding your cue.
Next little lesson is to lay a dime on the felt about 14 inches in front of your bridge hand when it is in position to shoot and just stroke without any balls there, and your tip should dip onto the dime everytime. If it isn't, you need to get a real good player, have him watch you, and tell you what you are doing wrong, then correct it, and try again and again until your tip is coming pretty close to the center of the dime almost everytime you stroke. Good little exercise to do before a big match just to get the right feel to your stroke until it becomes second nature to you.
Well it helps if you know and practice the correct stance and hold the cue the proper way to begin with. If you fluctuate in your stroke from day to day, look to your stance and how you are holding your cue.
Next little lesson is to lay a dime on the felt about 14 inches in front of your bridge hand when it is in position to shoot and just stroke without any balls there, and your tip should dip onto the dime everytime. If it isn't, you need to get a real good player, have him watch you, and tell you what you are doing wrong, then correct it, and try again and again until your tip is coming pretty close to the center of the dime almost everytime you stroke. Good little exercise to do before a big match just to get the right feel to your stroke until it becomes second nature to you.
fast larry
Banned
homerfan666 said:
Hi, would love to answer your question but from your description frankly I cannot envision the shot. You must show me the shot, 3 ways to do that, one, diagram it, scan and email it to me, fastlarry@bellsouth.net Two, Fax it to me 770-381-1916, three draw it on the wei table and post that so I can open it to view the shot, then I can give you a proper answer and promise to do so.
fast larry
Banned
Re: your stroke ..
Hi Scott, if there is any lesson I have learned is pool players with talent can run out doing everything wrong. As long as they get out and win, is it wrong or not, I think not, winning is what it is about. You see pro's in a dozen different stances, some are aiming off the left eye, right eye, middle of the nose and off the cue entirely. Long strokes, short strokes, it is all over the board.
The main reason I begin filming DVD's is I feel pool has been taught wrong for a long time. The two main things taught wrong are the draw and the follow. My new DVD's will teach my concept of how this should be. This will vary from what most of you came up on. The one thing I am vehemently against is this thing you just described, shooting and dropping the cue to the cloth, it is called cloth not felt. This is how the BCA wants their instructors to teach. This is why I resigned from their school after I graduated, over this. I feel this is wrong and I won't teach anything I believe to be wrong.
I can show you films of all the old time greats and I can assure you none of them did this. Go watch 3-cushion players, none of them do this. Doing this produces players who are what I call ball skidders. My method teaches you to be a pure ball roller. I have written extensively on this subject on ccb and all I got was attacked by those who just do not know or understand or are unwilling to view anything new or different.
My shaft starts out parallel with the table bed and after the hit and impact it stays parallel and on that same plane thought the entire follow through. Sometimes I follow through to the joint and my tip even rises at the end.
I have no intention to get into another debate with the BCA instructors on this forum or any other forum. Been there, done that and all I got was attacked and abused and defiled. My systems premiers on DVD this March at the Allen Hopkins Expo, buy it, view it, and try it out. Then compare the two concepts and you, the player decide which one works best for you. Until then, please excuse me for not answering any more questions on this subject because the contents of my message on the DVD are not for release until 2 l/2 months. I have taken a thousand former ball skidders with this flawed system and every single one of them once they caught on and began to pure roll the ball for the first time every single one of them converted. Most said this was the most important and significant thing ever taught to them in pool and opened a new world up to them.
Pool has been taught wrong for a long time, March, that changes, I finally teach it right. I teach what Hoppe, Mosconi, Greenleaf, Cuelemans, Sang Lee does with the cue ball. This ball skidding crap came from Jerry Briesith and its all dead wrong, IMHO...
Snapshot9 said:
Hi Scott, if there is any lesson I have learned is pool players with talent can run out doing everything wrong. As long as they get out and win, is it wrong or not, I think not, winning is what it is about. You see pro's in a dozen different stances, some are aiming off the left eye, right eye, middle of the nose and off the cue entirely. Long strokes, short strokes, it is all over the board.
The main reason I begin filming DVD's is I feel pool has been taught wrong for a long time. The two main things taught wrong are the draw and the follow. My new DVD's will teach my concept of how this should be. This will vary from what most of you came up on. The one thing I am vehemently against is this thing you just described, shooting and dropping the cue to the cloth, it is called cloth not felt. This is how the BCA wants their instructors to teach. This is why I resigned from their school after I graduated, over this. I feel this is wrong and I won't teach anything I believe to be wrong.
I can show you films of all the old time greats and I can assure you none of them did this. Go watch 3-cushion players, none of them do this. Doing this produces players who are what I call ball skidders. My method teaches you to be a pure ball roller. I have written extensively on this subject on ccb and all I got was attacked by those who just do not know or understand or are unwilling to view anything new or different.
My shaft starts out parallel with the table bed and after the hit and impact it stays parallel and on that same plane thought the entire follow through. Sometimes I follow through to the joint and my tip even rises at the end.
I have no intention to get into another debate with the BCA instructors on this forum or any other forum. Been there, done that and all I got was attacked and abused and defiled. My systems premiers on DVD this March at the Allen Hopkins Expo, buy it, view it, and try it out. Then compare the two concepts and you, the player decide which one works best for you. Until then, please excuse me for not answering any more questions on this subject because the contents of my message on the DVD are not for release until 2 l/2 months. I have taken a thousand former ball skidders with this flawed system and every single one of them once they caught on and began to pure roll the ball for the first time every single one of them converted. Most said this was the most important and significant thing ever taught to them in pool and opened a new world up to them.
Pool has been taught wrong for a long time, March, that changes, I finally teach it right. I teach what Hoppe, Mosconi, Greenleaf, Cuelemans, Sang Lee does with the cue ball. This ball skidding crap came from Jerry Briesith and its all dead wrong, IMHO...
cue stroke
Larry ... Good to have you back, always enjoyed your comments and advice ...
I have played about 41 years Larry, and the advice originally came from Jimmy Caras, 3 time world champion, in person, when I was 14 years old, and just beginning to get into the sport. I am also familiar with Willie Mosconi, one of my Pool idols, as I was privileged to get to play him in a exhibition match in San Diego at the Billiard Tavern near 12th and Broadway in the late 60's. I also beat Jimmy Montaya in San Diego when he first started going on the road when he was 15 years old (I was 19 at the time).
What you failed to note Larry, is that 14" is past the point of normal stroke extension, and the only reason the tip dips is because of the overextension of the stroke. Most players are 6-8", ideally, behind the tip when the cue makes contact with the cue ball, although many players are closer to 10" nowdays on some shots. Skidding results from miscueing the cue ball to begin with or trying to 'push' the cue ball instead of stroking through the cue ball.
Yes, I do agree with you that many players have oddities that exist in their stance and/or stroke, but most of those players never get to higher than an 8 skill level, with Efren being a 12. I would say that anyone a 9 skill level and up, that those oddities are extremely rare, and almost all of those players have a decent stance and a good stroke. Surely, you can concede that anyone that can make a straight in from the jaws of a corner pocket the full length of the table could not do it consistently with those oddities in their stroke.
I do sympathize with you about your being 'off' for awhile, and puttering in your garden, as I have been on disability now for over 5 years, and it is quietly driving me mad, although I have enjoyed the free time afforded to me.
I published a billiards newsletter, The Green Felt, for 2 years, and other business type activities. Yes, I know I must change my terminalogy to cloth nowdays, but I am 'old school'. I have 22+ years experience in Information Systems, so I recently decided the best way to jumpstart my life again was to go back and get my Master's degree in Information Technology via the internet. I tested out of 2 courses already, and begin the 'regular' semester next week, and am on a schedule to be done with it by next December. I am considering going ahead and getting my Doctorate, so that I could teach maybe when I get to 65 or 66, or do high level consulting.
Larry ... Good to have you back, always enjoyed your comments and advice ...
I have played about 41 years Larry, and the advice originally came from Jimmy Caras, 3 time world champion, in person, when I was 14 years old, and just beginning to get into the sport. I am also familiar with Willie Mosconi, one of my Pool idols, as I was privileged to get to play him in a exhibition match in San Diego at the Billiard Tavern near 12th and Broadway in the late 60's. I also beat Jimmy Montaya in San Diego when he first started going on the road when he was 15 years old (I was 19 at the time).
What you failed to note Larry, is that 14" is past the point of normal stroke extension, and the only reason the tip dips is because of the overextension of the stroke. Most players are 6-8", ideally, behind the tip when the cue makes contact with the cue ball, although many players are closer to 10" nowdays on some shots. Skidding results from miscueing the cue ball to begin with or trying to 'push' the cue ball instead of stroking through the cue ball.
Yes, I do agree with you that many players have oddities that exist in their stance and/or stroke, but most of those players never get to higher than an 8 skill level, with Efren being a 12. I would say that anyone a 9 skill level and up, that those oddities are extremely rare, and almost all of those players have a decent stance and a good stroke. Surely, you can concede that anyone that can make a straight in from the jaws of a corner pocket the full length of the table could not do it consistently with those oddities in their stroke.
I do sympathize with you about your being 'off' for awhile, and puttering in your garden, as I have been on disability now for over 5 years, and it is quietly driving me mad, although I have enjoyed the free time afforded to me.
I published a billiards newsletter, The Green Felt, for 2 years, and other business type activities. Yes, I know I must change my terminalogy to cloth nowdays, but I am 'old school'. I have 22+ years experience in Information Systems, so I recently decided the best way to jumpstart my life again was to go back and get my Master's degree in Information Technology via the internet. I tested out of 2 courses already, and begin the 'regular' semester next week, and am on a schedule to be done with it by next December. I am considering going ahead and getting my Doctorate, so that I could teach maybe when I get to 65 or 66, or do high level consulting.
fast larry
Banned
My table is too fast, what do I do?
Andrew sends Fast an email and asks him:
> i just bought a 200 dollar 7ft pool table and the balls roll way too fast
> and for way too long. even if you hit it very soft the ball seems to roll
> way too long. the table is in my basement on a wooden floor on a carpet and
> it is level. i only played a few games on it tonight with a friend and it
> just seemed to play horrible. both my firends have played pool tons of time
> and usually play at the local billiard hall so i know its not me. it came
> with balls that look decent but are probably crap and i will probably
> replace them. it also came with crappy cues but i'm already going to
> replace those tomorrow along with getting better racks and a nice brush and
> rail brush and some good chalk and probably a cue stand. Is there anything i
> can do though to the balls or the cloth or anything to slow down the balls?
> thanks so much for your help! and btw your site rocks!
Hi this is Fast, may I try to help you here? I play and show on only Simonis 760, which is much faster than 860 and twice as fast and the normal house cloth you see in a pool room. A faster cloth will develop a finer touch in your game. I hate a slow cloth which is why I only show on brand new 760. A cloth can get too fast where it becomes unplayable and it’s like being on ice, you can’t stop or shut the ball down. I have seen some rooms leave the simonis on for years and it gets thin and you’re like playing on the slate. You try and stop a ball by the side pocket and it rolls down to the end rail.
Rick Wright, a fellow TASA world trick shot champion was always taking my old 300 simonis cloth off of my 10’ billiard tables when I reclothed and putting it on the 9’ pool table he practiced on in his home room. He would toss it in the washing machine, dry it and put it on. He would then flip it over and put the down side now up and he had a useable cloth. Yes it shank up some, but going from a 10 to a 9 he got by with that. He liked it because he could do more with the Masse with this super fast cloth.
He also gambled 9 ball on it. He had this fabulous fine touch and once he got the speed of it down he was unbeatable on that table. It was so damn fast nobody could shut down the cue ball but him. He would even come in with an iron to press it down and make it even faster. I played on it many times with him and it drove me crazy. 760 is about as fast a cloth as can be handled in pool. I think 860 are too slow. These cheap imitations that are out are even slower than 860.
My concept on tables is any table is better than no table. So many people get this thing stuck in their heads they have to have this brand new Brunswick gold crown and never get up the 6 grand to buy it or wait years to acquire a home that can accommodate a 9’ table. I want a Mercedes convertible also but I faced reality and bought a ford crown vic. Life is full and buying what you need and can afford now.
I sell real pool tables with one inch slates that are 7’ long with real leather pockets. They will fit in just about any room or basement. They are not bar boxes; they are real tables, just shorter, the same size as bar boxes. They play much better than a bar box. Even if the room is small and your cue is bumping the wall, just shove the shot forward keeping the same line until you are free of the wall or use short cues for those shots. If the room is really small, give up a long rail, just shove the table against the wall so you have just enough room to walk buy and pull the balls out of the side pocket.
You can now practice your break and drills off of the ends and one side. You just toss balls out with 3 cue balls on the table and just shoot shots, any shots. This keeps you in stroke. It’s not perfect, but again, it’s better than having nothing. You can’t play games but you can save thousands of dollars practicing at home. I can have you in a brand new 7’ real pool table with an l” slate and leather pockets for $1350. Your accessories you need to play with I have them also, go to my web site www.fastlarrypool.com and open the table tables and cues, click any table shown and the prices are revealed. I think it is better to pay somebody like me $1350 for a brand new table than buy a used table for a $1000 that usually has more miles on it than a New York City taxi cab and is on its last leg.
You make me guess about what kind of table you bought. If you paid $200 for it then it’s a good guess your table bed is not slate but particle board. Hit it with your knuckles, you can tell that way. You probably got one of those department store tables that are really only good for kids to bang around on. You are never going to be happy with it or be able to play any serious pool on it. The pockets are too small for the balls and usually they use some kind of nylon cloth that is too fast. I have one of these and I only use it to take around and set up for Wonder Dog to do his show on it. There is little I can do on these tables. My advice is this, $200 is so cheap, just bang around on it until you can sell it and buy something better. Trying to upgrade it I think is chasing good money after bad.
You can try using a damp towel on the cloth, damp, not dripping. You have wood under that cloth and you don’t want the water going through the cloth on the wood. When you clean cloths that way it always slows down the roll for a while. If it’s this nylon stuff that won’t work. Some of these cloths almost feel like velvet, don’t use water on them. If the pockets are too small for the balls and they usually are on these tables you can buy a set of snooker balls which are 2 l/8” instead of the 2 l/4 pool balls. Play 8 ball, one guy runs the reds, you run the 1-7, put a little paint spot on both sides of one of the extra reds and have that be the 8 ball. You will make more balls and they will pocket better. I can sell you a set of these.
If you want to slow the table down you can have somebody come in to recover the table with the slowest house cloth they sell, but that can run you much more than the table is worth, sometimes twice what you paid. You can go buy the cloth, they are cheap, the expense is putting it one. If you have never done this before or are not mechanically inclined avoid this. These tables are not made to be worked on and repaired. You might end up destroying the table trying to recover it.
You can always get your dog up on it and teach him how to run out with his nose like I did. Who knows, you may get on TV also. Turn your kids loose on it, they don’t know and like just slamming balls around any way. Turn your back and kids lay the sticks down and begin slinging balls with their hands anyway. You can buy one of these table covers that have a crap table on one side and shoot crap. The table cover then lets your wife dump her cloths on it to sort out after the wash and it’s a nice ironing board as well. Get the right chairs and you can even use it as a dinning room table during those times when you have more people over than your regular dinning room table sit. Go buy and cut out three thick pieces of l” plyboard so they cover the rails and the bed. Put dowels in them so they fit together and wont slide apart. Put a nice table cloth over that. There are many cool things you can do with a pool table. No player should ever be without one. Even in your apartment, it will go in one of your rooms or in the living room. If you are single you can do this, married, forget that one, she will never go for that.
May God bless and peace be with you. May the wind be always on your back and
All 9 balls fall. VENI VIDI VICI, OMNIA VINCIT AMOR. Latin for “I came, I saw, I conquered, love conquerors all.
“Fast Larry” Guninger
Andrew sends Fast an email and asks him:
> i just bought a 200 dollar 7ft pool table and the balls roll way too fast
> and for way too long. even if you hit it very soft the ball seems to roll
> way too long. the table is in my basement on a wooden floor on a carpet and
> it is level. i only played a few games on it tonight with a friend and it
> just seemed to play horrible. both my firends have played pool tons of time
> and usually play at the local billiard hall so i know its not me. it came
> with balls that look decent but are probably crap and i will probably
> replace them. it also came with crappy cues but i'm already going to
> replace those tomorrow along with getting better racks and a nice brush and
> rail brush and some good chalk and probably a cue stand. Is there anything i
> can do though to the balls or the cloth or anything to slow down the balls?
> thanks so much for your help! and btw your site rocks!
Hi this is Fast, may I try to help you here? I play and show on only Simonis 760, which is much faster than 860 and twice as fast and the normal house cloth you see in a pool room. A faster cloth will develop a finer touch in your game. I hate a slow cloth which is why I only show on brand new 760. A cloth can get too fast where it becomes unplayable and it’s like being on ice, you can’t stop or shut the ball down. I have seen some rooms leave the simonis on for years and it gets thin and you’re like playing on the slate. You try and stop a ball by the side pocket and it rolls down to the end rail.
Rick Wright, a fellow TASA world trick shot champion was always taking my old 300 simonis cloth off of my 10’ billiard tables when I reclothed and putting it on the 9’ pool table he practiced on in his home room. He would toss it in the washing machine, dry it and put it on. He would then flip it over and put the down side now up and he had a useable cloth. Yes it shank up some, but going from a 10 to a 9 he got by with that. He liked it because he could do more with the Masse with this super fast cloth.
He also gambled 9 ball on it. He had this fabulous fine touch and once he got the speed of it down he was unbeatable on that table. It was so damn fast nobody could shut down the cue ball but him. He would even come in with an iron to press it down and make it even faster. I played on it many times with him and it drove me crazy. 760 is about as fast a cloth as can be handled in pool. I think 860 are too slow. These cheap imitations that are out are even slower than 860.
My concept on tables is any table is better than no table. So many people get this thing stuck in their heads they have to have this brand new Brunswick gold crown and never get up the 6 grand to buy it or wait years to acquire a home that can accommodate a 9’ table. I want a Mercedes convertible also but I faced reality and bought a ford crown vic. Life is full and buying what you need and can afford now.
I sell real pool tables with one inch slates that are 7’ long with real leather pockets. They will fit in just about any room or basement. They are not bar boxes; they are real tables, just shorter, the same size as bar boxes. They play much better than a bar box. Even if the room is small and your cue is bumping the wall, just shove the shot forward keeping the same line until you are free of the wall or use short cues for those shots. If the room is really small, give up a long rail, just shove the table against the wall so you have just enough room to walk buy and pull the balls out of the side pocket.
You can now practice your break and drills off of the ends and one side. You just toss balls out with 3 cue balls on the table and just shoot shots, any shots. This keeps you in stroke. It’s not perfect, but again, it’s better than having nothing. You can’t play games but you can save thousands of dollars practicing at home. I can have you in a brand new 7’ real pool table with an l” slate and leather pockets for $1350. Your accessories you need to play with I have them also, go to my web site www.fastlarrypool.com and open the table tables and cues, click any table shown and the prices are revealed. I think it is better to pay somebody like me $1350 for a brand new table than buy a used table for a $1000 that usually has more miles on it than a New York City taxi cab and is on its last leg.
You make me guess about what kind of table you bought. If you paid $200 for it then it’s a good guess your table bed is not slate but particle board. Hit it with your knuckles, you can tell that way. You probably got one of those department store tables that are really only good for kids to bang around on. You are never going to be happy with it or be able to play any serious pool on it. The pockets are too small for the balls and usually they use some kind of nylon cloth that is too fast. I have one of these and I only use it to take around and set up for Wonder Dog to do his show on it. There is little I can do on these tables. My advice is this, $200 is so cheap, just bang around on it until you can sell it and buy something better. Trying to upgrade it I think is chasing good money after bad.
You can try using a damp towel on the cloth, damp, not dripping. You have wood under that cloth and you don’t want the water going through the cloth on the wood. When you clean cloths that way it always slows down the roll for a while. If it’s this nylon stuff that won’t work. Some of these cloths almost feel like velvet, don’t use water on them. If the pockets are too small for the balls and they usually are on these tables you can buy a set of snooker balls which are 2 l/8” instead of the 2 l/4 pool balls. Play 8 ball, one guy runs the reds, you run the 1-7, put a little paint spot on both sides of one of the extra reds and have that be the 8 ball. You will make more balls and they will pocket better. I can sell you a set of these.
If you want to slow the table down you can have somebody come in to recover the table with the slowest house cloth they sell, but that can run you much more than the table is worth, sometimes twice what you paid. You can go buy the cloth, they are cheap, the expense is putting it one. If you have never done this before or are not mechanically inclined avoid this. These tables are not made to be worked on and repaired. You might end up destroying the table trying to recover it.
You can always get your dog up on it and teach him how to run out with his nose like I did. Who knows, you may get on TV also. Turn your kids loose on it, they don’t know and like just slamming balls around any way. Turn your back and kids lay the sticks down and begin slinging balls with their hands anyway. You can buy one of these table covers that have a crap table on one side and shoot crap. The table cover then lets your wife dump her cloths on it to sort out after the wash and it’s a nice ironing board as well. Get the right chairs and you can even use it as a dinning room table during those times when you have more people over than your regular dinning room table sit. Go buy and cut out three thick pieces of l” plyboard so they cover the rails and the bed. Put dowels in them so they fit together and wont slide apart. Put a nice table cloth over that. There are many cool things you can do with a pool table. No player should ever be without one. Even in your apartment, it will go in one of your rooms or in the living room. If you are single you can do this, married, forget that one, she will never go for that.
May God bless and peace be with you. May the wind be always on your back and
All 9 balls fall. VENI VIDI VICI, OMNIA VINCIT AMOR. Latin for “I came, I saw, I conquered, love conquerors all.
“Fast Larry” Guninger
fast larry
Banned
Re: cue stroke
Snapshot9 said:
fast larry
Banned
LastTwo said:
Amen, all of my teaching methods came from years of studying the worlds greatest players on tape and trying to find how and why they did it and what same things they all did well. I did that on snooker, billiard and pool players. I took the best of those 3 worlds and adapted it to pool. That is what I teach, what the best did. If you trying to teach this chop down on a ball in golf on the putt, they would laugh you out of town. You hit up over the top of the ball to get it rolling and not skidding. Being a scratch golfer and a decent putter all of my life that was what called attention to how pool was being taught. Rolling a ball is rolling a ball, period.
It then became clear this thing was not right. Yes on some shots I do this, but on most I do not. I do not like any form of teaching that gives you only one way to perform all shots and that is how these people teach. I teach every shot is different and every shot has a different technique, yes most of them are the same or similiar, but I don't lock my self into one way to play.
I teach a lot to do what comes naturally to you, find your own path to these things. This is a feel game and it must be played by feel and not mechanically.
I will use a downwards choppy stroke if I am trying to kill the cueball with inside english for example, but otherwise I go straight through and upwards with my tip. To help me do this I look at the top of the object ball and try to touch it with my tip.
fast larry
Banned
LastTwo said:
Yes, I use and teach that same stroke, it is called a drag shot, you can also hit it low with a soft draw that releases quick so when the cb hits the ob, it will only roll forward an inch or so. It is a wonderful way of shutting a shot down so it won't come in too hot.
Every shot is different, every solution and technique is therefore different as well to the player I teach to play out of the box and by feel. He shoots what works.
Larry,
Here's a question on Grip.
I remeber you talking about a new grip you were working on (probably years ago) where you had all your fingers on the cue, but still held the cue lightly. There was also something about using your pinkie as a rudder.
Can you elaborate on that grip, and/or your current grip technique if it's different from that one?
Thanks!
Here's a question on Grip.
I remeber you talking about a new grip you were working on (probably years ago) where you had all your fingers on the cue, but still held the cue lightly. There was also something about using your pinkie as a rudder.
Can you elaborate on that grip, and/or your current grip technique if it's different from that one?
Thanks!
fast larry
Banned
Dakota Cues said:
Yes, I think players should experiment with different fingers on the cue to find out what works or them best. I do use several different holds to achieve different shots. On some I hold with just the index finger, others the first two, some all four. I wont use the word grip, because I do not grip the cue, i very lightly hold it, my finger tips lightly just ride on it with a velvet touch. The hold I described was having two dominate fingers, the first finger, index and the last small pinky, they hold the cue with equal pressure and balance each other while the bird finger just rides and the ring finger hangs free. Those two fingers seem to balance each other and remove the twist from the stroke. My mental concept of this is the out rigger canoe you see in the south pacific, one keeps the other in balance.
T
THE SILENCER
Guest
hi fast larry. i am thrilled with my playing in general. i play close to pro level, especially in 8-ball where i believe i could beat any pro on earth, here's my question, latley when i'm on the 8-ball if i'm not straight in and perfectly easily close, i usually miss, cause i believe i'm upset withmyself,in conjunction with left brain thinking, help me how can i say, so what? so i'm not perfect, and continue on? thanks.
T
tshot
Guest
ANYONE ELSE FEEL LIKE THEY ARE WATCHING THE REMAKE OF THE MOVIE SYBIL ON THIS THREAD?