At which point does a cue stop being about playability and start becoming Art?

20.00 . I paid 20.00 for a brand new premier sneaky Pete. I took it to Vegas nationals and played the bed I have ever played. I have 12 cues and this 20.00 cue plays better than any of the rest which range from 150.00 to 2,500.00.

I put it in the closet after I got back from Vegas 4 years ago and took it out to olay in a 9 ball team tournament. A decent money tournament with about 3,000.00 for first. My opponent played about 8or 9 safes and I kicked out every time. . Some one on his team yelled out ...somebody take that stick away from him ...he aint missing nothing ...lol.

Its 4 years old now and looks as good and is a straight as the day I bought it. I only play with it during important matches such as the tournament above and apa ltc's .

I just got lucky when I bought this cue because i had heard horror stories about shipping cues to nationals on planes and did not want to take any of my other cues.

I got it at cost from a buddy of mine who bought a dozen of them from a vendor at the southern classic in tunica .

What did you like about it? You liked the taper of the shaft, and you must have really like the way it hit, if you did that well out in Vegas. I went out to Vegas when I was 21 (without a cue), and played in the Singles mini tournaments, with my team captains old Meucci cue. I won 7 out of the 8 Mini tournaments that I played in, which were single elimination, with an old worn out Meucci. Loved the way it played.
 
At the joint: Anything from joint to butt end is art, anything from joint to tip is playability.

I disagree. The butt does play a good part in how the shaft will hit when attached to it. For example, I tried a few Diveney shafts attached to a cheap quality butt, and I did not care for the way the cue hit. If those shafts would have been attached to an actual Diveney cue, then I bet I would have really loved the way they hit.
 
Do you know how many Dufferin house cues have been converted to 2 piece cues because of how good the wood is? I have converted several...

I don't know how many, no. But I don't think that discredits my statement about most house cues being of lesser quality than most everyone here would find desirable.
 
At the joint: Anything from joint to butt end is art, anything from joint to tip is playability.

I'd never heard it put this way before - and I'm an old man. I like the saying. (I'd imagine it's been around a long time)
 
I don't know how many, no. But I don't think that discredits my statement about most house cues being of lesser quality than most everyone here would find desirable.

I've played so much in bars and on the road that I love house cues. The hit is great and the feeling and feedback of a one-piece cue is unmatched by any two piece cue I've hit. I have some great two piece cues but sometimes I just grab a house cue and play with it for a while. Just for fun.
 
I've played so much in bars and on the road that I love house cues. The hit is great and the feeling and feedback of a one-piece cue is unmatched by any two piece cue I've hit. I have some great two piece cues but sometimes I just grab a house cue and play with it for a while. Just for fun.

Oh they're definitley fine if the place maintains them, my dad routinely schools me with house cues. I'm just so used to getting ones with shake and wobble. I guess I've never used whatever kind the guy commenting earlier was talking about, I would have definitley saved some cash just finding a great house cue and having it cut and screwed. Haha
 
I got a $116 cue in the mail yesterday, took it out and played just as well with it as I do my $400 cue. Took it home, exact same length, both made the same vibration when tapped at different points, etc. Outside of inlays the only difference between the two is the $400 cue screws together more smoothly and has a silk wrap, which I think aids in lightening my grip some since there's nothing for the skin of my palm to stick to.

So I find myself wondering, what's the absolute point in which a pool cue is going to play as well as other cues? Like, I can tell when holding a house cue--the wood doesn't seem solid, the tips are kind of crappy, I can feel the poor quality in the cue. But now I'm kind of wondering, are $35-40 cues better than house cues? What's the minimum requirement for a cue to be considered a 'good playing' cue?

I realize a good pool player can just play regardless of equipment but in terms of equipment alone with the player taken out of the equation, what's fundamentally important?

Or even, let's say my $400 cue plays the same my the $116 cue because the $400 cue is in the same classification of cue. Would I notice a difference of wood quality and handling from a $400 cue when compared to a $1,000+ cue? I've looked online and most sources I've seen are from cue dealers trying to make a sale. So I wanted an opinion from the perspective of players instead.
Are you asking a question like this because you truly have no idea at what "point" a cue is about art instead of only playability, or are you trying to teach with a profound point?

If it's the former, then the answer is: the moment you consider looks as part of the value of buying a cue, that's when it becomes a question of art and not only playability.

I have a cue that still has the sticker: $49.95. It's as much cue as anyone in the world needs to win championships. I have a Universal cue that I didn't buy for looks that has a low squirt shaft and an extension that screws in. MR price is about $250. If someone wanted those two considerations for function, that's about as low as it gets. I believe the Cuetec R360 with an extension is actually slightly more expensive.

If your question was the latter, and you're trying to pontificate and teach us the horrors of our low self esteem, materialistic ways , you're entirely too late and not bringing up anything new by about 40 years. Welcome to the party.

I want art included in any cuestick purchase. I get that choice. I deserve that option. We all do.


Freddie
 
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... the moment you consider looks as part of the value of buying a cue, that's when it becomes a question of art and not only playability.
Freddie

You beat me to it.

IMO, 99% of players chose a cue because of it's visual appeal.
 
Are you asking a question like this because you truly have no idea at what "point" a cue is about art instead of only playability, or are you trying to teach with a profound point?

If it's the former, then the answer is: the moment you consider looks as part of the value of buying a cue, that's when it becomes a question of art and not only playability.

I have a cue that still has the sticker: $49.95. It's as much cue as anyone in the world needs to win championships. I have a Universal cue that I didn't buy for looks that has a low squirt shaft and an extension that screws in. MR price is about $250. If someone wanted those two considerations for function, that's about as low as it gets. I believe the Cuetec R360 with an extension is actually slightly more expensive.

If your question was the latter, and you're trying to pontificate and teach us the horrors of our low self esteem, materialistic ways , you're entirely too late and not bringing up anything new by about 40 years. Welcome to the party.

I want art included in any cuestick purchase. I get that choice. I deserve that option. We all do.


Freddie

No, literally just looking for a definitive explination to what materials and price point is considered a 'good enough' cue. I go to buy cues, I see thousands ranging from $20-$4,000, and I wonder "if I didn't care about anything but a solid playing cue, let's say the whole thing is the color of the shaft, absolutely plain. At which point do I stop considering materials necessary and start considering the next best type of wood a luxury?"
 
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