Atlas metal lathe woes

RidgeRaider

RidgeRaider

Active member
Well, the further I dive into cue-making and repair with my 12" atlas lathe, the more I find out how unfit this machine is for cue-making..

I knew the spindle bore size was small, but it never dawned on me that I'd need to be able to pass most of the handle / forearm through the spindle to do pin installs and such.

So, now I am at a fork in the road. Keep throwing some money trying to solve these problems with workarounds, or just divert and invest in an actual machine fit for cuemaking such as a woodscue lathe or a metal lathe with a 1.375 spindle bore size?

I ordered a steady rest and am going to try doing a pin install on my atlas with that and see how it goes, but I am not hopeful yet.
 
Buy a large bore mid America headstock and build a mount to go on your cross slide or make a mount for the ways.

I adapted a wood lathe for my machine and built an er50 center steady that is quickly removable and stays centered. I like that better than going through the headstock because it takes less space and is dead accurate.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
Buy a large bore mid America headstock and build a mount to go on your cross slide or make a mount for the ways.

I adapted a wood lathe for my machine and built an er50 center steady that is quickly removable and stays centered. I like that better than going through the headstock because it takes less space and is dead accurate.
Click to expand...
Damn, that's actually a really good idea, taking a mid america headstock and making it a steady rest.

I guess I could just weld up a stand for it to sit on top of the ways and lug it with a t post type deal.
 
RidgeRaider said:
Well, the further I dive into cue-making and repair with my 12" atlas lathe, the more I find out how unfit this machine is for cue-making..

I knew the spindle bore size was small, but it never dawned on me that I'd need to be able to pass most of the handle / forearm through the spindle to do pin installs and such.

So, now I am at a fork in the road. Keep throwing some money trying to solve these problems with workarounds, or just divert and invest in an actual machine fit for cuemaking such as a woodscue lathe or a metal lathe with a 1.375 spindle bore size?

I ordered a steady rest and am going to try doing a pin install on my atlas with that and see how it goes, but I am not hopeful yet.
Click to expand...
I started with an Atlas. I used a steady rest with a bearing in place. Appropriately sized donuts were used for various sizes. Got by 2 years before acquiring a 1236 Jet. Been using it since 1985.
 
R2PQZ said:
I started with an Atlas. I used a steady rest with a bearing in place. Appropriately sized donuts were used for various sizes. Got by 2 years before acquiring a 1236 Jet. Been using it since 1985.
Click to expand...
I still use the Atlas for turning butts and shafts.
 
RidgeRaider said:
Damn, that's actually a really good idea, taking a mid america headstock and making it a steady rest.

I guess I could just weld up a stand for it to sit on top of the ways and lug it with a t post type deal.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I spent a lot of time considering it as a solution.

Just make sure to allow for adjustment up (shimming is a fine solution), and alignment of the MA headstock to the lathe axis. Then all you have to do is ensure that the stand goes on the lathe the same every time and you are there.
 
I would sell it to free up both money and space and get a 13x40 with a 1.5" bore, That's what you'll end up with eventually anyway.
If a new lathe isn't in your budget, there's deals to be had out there. Check the usual places like Craigslist, Facebook etc.
But also reach out to companies specializing in selling used equipment, they often sell higher grade stuff like Colchester, Harrison and other well known brands.
In fact I just bought a used Harrison M300 for a good price, so I know these deals are out there.
 

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RidgeRaider said:
Damn, that's actually a really good idea, taking a mid america headstock and making it a steady rest.

I guess I could just weld up a stand for it to sit on top of the ways and lug it with a t post type deal.
Click to expand...
It's not necessary to buy an entire headstock for a steady rest - individual steady rests with adjustable chucks are available.
1757079681776.png
 
RidgeRaider said:
Well, the further I dive into cue-making and repair with my 12" atlas lathe, the more I find out how unfit this machine is for cue-making..

I knew the spindle bore size was small, but it never dawned on me that I'd need to be able to pass most of the handle / forearm through the spindle to do pin installs and such.

So, now I am at a fork in the road. Keep throwing some money trying to solve these problems with workarounds, or just divert and invest in an actual machine fit for cuemaking such as a woodscue lathe or a metal lathe with a 1.375 spindle bore size?

I ordered a steady rest and am going to try doing a pin install on my atlas with that and see how it goes, but I am not hopeful yet.
Click to expand...
What is the center-to-center distance on your Atlas?
 
RidgeRaider said:
Well, the further I dive into cue-making and repair with my 12" atlas lathe, the more I find out how unfit this machine is for cue-making..

I knew the spindle bore size was small, but it never dawned on me that I'd need to be able to pass most of the handle / forearm through the spindle to do pin installs and such.

So, now I am at a fork in the road. Keep throwing some money trying to solve these problems with workarounds, or just divert and invest in an actual machine fit for cuemaking such as a woodscue lathe or a metal lathe with a 1.375 spindle bore size?

I ordered a steady rest and am going to try doing a pin install on my atlas with that and see how it goes, but I am not hopeful yet.
Click to expand...
I built cues on one for a few years and the steady rest method is actually more accurate than going through the headstock if your steady rest bearing bushings are concentric.
 
GBCues said:
It's not necessary to buy an entire headstock for a steady rest - individual steady rests with adjustable chucks are available.
View attachment 848706
Click to expand...
I ended up doing something close.

I found an original steady rest for my atlas lathe and bought that, then went to cue man and bought his 3 jaw steady rest on the bearing, and I can mount that in my lathe's steady rest.

All said and done, should be pretty precise when coupled with the DNA collet system I ordered. Pins and joints shouldn't be an issue I'd assume.
 
RidgeRaider said:
I ended up doing something close.

I found an original steady rest for my atlas lathe and bought that, then went to cue man and bought his 3 jaw steady rest on the bearing, and I can mount that in my lathe's steady rest.

All said and done, should be pretty precise when coupled with the DNA collet system I ordered. Pins and joints shouldn't be an issue I'd assume.
Click to expand...

I built full cues including short-splices on less...way less. You've got the tools and the resources, now have fun.
 
RidgeRaider said:
@Cuemaker Supply

For your tool post dremel mount, what is the purpose of the dremel? Does it get used for live threading?
Click to expand...
I am not sure that it would have low enough runout using a Dremel for live threading. This is not something that I have tried it so I am just guessing. In the past, I have used one with a miniature saw blade for slicing rings from a billet and I suppose you could do the same with a tiny end mill from the front. I think guys that do carbon fiber shafts use it with an abrasive cut off wheel to part off carbon tubes. This piece is something that was offered for sale from the previous owner Todd Shultz so I have just kept it in the product line, but not something that I have used much in my personal cuebuilding experience.
 
Cuemaker Supply said:
I am not sure that it would have low enough runout using a Dremel for live threading. This is not something that I have tried it so I am just guessing. In the past, I have used one with a miniature saw blade for slicing rings from a billet and I suppose you could do the same with a tiny end mill from the front. I think guys that do carbon fiber shafts use it with an abrasive cut off wheel to part off carbon tubes. This piece is something that was offered for sale from the previous owner Todd Shultz so I have just kept it in the product line, but not something that I have used much in my personal cuebuilding experience.
Click to expand...
Understood, thanks.

I am going with a router set up for live threading, making a clamp out of 3" ID steel tube, some 1/2" bar stock and bits and pieces to hold the router in the tool post.
 
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