Basic Strategy in 8 Ball: General Theory Part I

rkim99

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Qualifier: I am not a pro. In fact, I'm just a BCA 7. Just a self-taught run-of-the-mill player.

However, I've been playing 8 ball for over 25 years and in that time developed my own strategy for the game which has allowed me a certain level of consistent success which I am going to put forth here a piece at a time to see if most agree/disagree and why.

It is my hope that those that disagree can be succinct enough in their explanations for me to glean a better understanding of the game.

One of the first strategies I was taught about playing 8 ball was to "think three shots ahead." I disagree.

I look at a table this way:

1) Find the 8.
2) Find the two balls closest to the eight that are easily pocketed (balls that are frozen to rails or other balls don't count), opposite suits (locate a stripe and a solid closest to the 8).
3) Decide which would be easier to make shape for the 8. That's ball one.
4) Find the next closet pocketable ball and decide the easiest way to get shape after shooting that ball to get to ball one. (Ball two)
5) The next ball again that's easiest get shape to ball two (ball 3)
6) NOW find the most easily pocketed ball from where the cue is presently
7 Mentally run the first three balls (balls 7, 6, and 5), making shape for the fourth
8) The fourth ball is the 'linkage' ball. Make shape from the fourth that gives you the third (beginning of last run)
9) You're out

Note: Obviously sometimes all 7 balls are not on the table. I just used the most difficult scenario to illustrate the point.

Most experienced players will readily see that really all this is is 2-three ball runs with a 'linkage' ball in between.

I developed this strategy after watching good players (sadly, myself included) run themselves into corners, so to speak, where they were forced to make a difficult shape to get back to the 8, miss it, and consequently give away the game.

What I realized was that the majority of the time making the actual shots wasn't the problem. Usually the difficulty of the shots was relatively low. It was making the shapes that was difficult. In fact, many times I could make a fairly difficult shot consistently; if I didn't have to consider shape.

Therefore, it seemed obvious that the ideal run required low difficulty shapes. Shot difficulty was not as great a factor.

Doing the mental gymnastics of figuring the last three-ball run first I came up with when I realized that shape was a much greater concern in 8 ball when there were only three balls left on the table to shoot, rather than 5 or 6 or 7. In other words, I could shoot the first three balls in almost any order as long as I made shape that led me naturally into the second 3-ball run.

Okay, that's the basic theory part I. What say you, O learned scholars of the chalk and cue? Yea or Nay and most importantly why?
 
Phil Capelle gives very similar advice about breaking up the pattern, instead of trying to work backwards through the entire rack.
 
Well, I like the idea, but I think I broaden it. I'll look backward from the 8, as many balls as I feel like (sometimes it's just one :eek:). Now sometimes, this means I plan out the whole run backwards, that's on a good layout. If there are problem balls/clusters, they go into the '1st half' run (along with nearby 'helper' balls) with a provision to reevaluate ASAP when things change. The more problem balls there are, the less likely I am to plan a bunch of balls in the '2nd half' run.

So, I like the idea of splitting it into 'setup' and 'finish' patterns, they just vary in size. Of course, dealing with problem balls supercedes any other plans :D

-s
 
steev said:
Well, I like the idea, but I think I broaden it. I'll look backward from the 8, as many balls as I feel like (sometimes it's just one :eek:). Now sometimes, this means I plan out the whole run backwards, that's on a good layout. If there are problem balls/clusters, they go into the '1st half' run (along with nearby 'helper' balls) with a provision to reevaluate ASAP when things change. The more problem balls there are, the less likely I am to plan a bunch of balls in the '2nd half' run.

So, I like the idea of splitting it into 'setup' and 'finish' patterns, they just vary in size. Of course, dealing with problem balls supercedes any other plans :D

-s
Steev;

I absolutely agree. This was just meant as a general guideline. Call it a mental excercise, if you will.

The reality is that we will and do get out of shape from whatever plans we began with, however, I find that by trying to keep in mind that I really want to make shape for the 2nd 3-ball run, I can run out more often.

The idea being that if I can get into the last three balls according to plan or close to my original plan, the nature of the plan will allow me to get out with the least amount of work, mental and physical.

However, I am glad to see that running backwards in sets is used by more than just me, myself and I.
 
I think the three balls ahead is more for 9-ball than 8-ball.

As far as general theory goes... The first thing I look at is the lay of both sets of balls.

Sometimes the lay of my opponents balls will dictate a more or less aggressive course of action.

Like you mention I will look at the 8-ball and find key balls to get me on the 8. ....I then look for a stop shot pattern all the way to the 8 ...(thats in an ideal world)

As soon as I can't "link" all the balls all the way to the 8...I star looking for safe options...
 
That's pretty much the way I think when my head is on straight. I treat it like the end of a straight pool rack. The 8 is the only possable break shot. I find the key ball for that break shot and the key ball to the key ball. Then I look at my beginning ball and the two ball pattern it leads to. The other ball is the link. When it works out,m it's a sweet thing. Also I start by deciding which balls are more runnable for me.

Pete
 
rkim99 said:
I look at a table this way:

1) Find the 8.
2) Find the two balls closest to the eight that are easily pocketed (balls that are frozen to rails or other balls don't count), opposite suits (locate a stripe and a solid closest to the 8).
3) Decide which would be easier to make shape for the 8. That's ball one.
4) Find the next closet pocketable ball and decide the easiest way to get shape after shooting that ball to get to ball one. (Ball two)
5) The next ball again that's easiest get shape to ball two (ball 3)
6) NOW find the most easily pocketed ball from where the cue is presently
7 Mentally run the first three balls (balls 7, 6, and 5), making shape for the fourth
8) The fourth ball is the 'linkage' ball. Make shape from the fourth that gives you the third (beginning of last run)
9) You're out

If I read this correctly, are you deciding whether to be stripes or solids based solely on which ball in step 2 is easiest to get shape on the 8 from? I assume you're not, since even though it might be easier to get shape on the 8 from the stripe nearest to the 8 than from the solid nearest to the 8, the solids might be the better choice given the layout of the rest of the table.

Also, using your method (find ball close to 8 that affords easy shape to 8, find next closest pocketable ball and easiest position from it to first ball, find next closest pocketable ball and easiest position from it to second ball...etc.) would not necessarily yield the easiest pattern/order to run the balls.

For simplicity, imagine that just the 8 ball and three solids (the 1, 2, and 3) are on the table, and you're deciding in which order to run them (so this will be after your 'linkage ball'). It is easiest to get from the 3 to the 8, so the 3 is ball 1. Of the remaining balls, it is easiest to get from the 2 to the 3, so the 2 is ball 2.

The problem with this analysis is that there may be a pattern which is better. For example, it may be easier to play shape on the 8 from the 3 than it is to play shape on the 8 from the 2, but the pattern 1-3-2-8 may be a higher percentage runout than the one you chose. But once you've chosen the 3 as your key ball (because it is the easiest ball to play shape on the 8 from), you've eliminated the 1-3-2-8 pattern.

For this reason I read the table holistically when playing 8-ball, taking the difficulty of the whole pattern into account when deciding in which order to run the balls.
 
Sounds like a good plan to me, being a C players this would work into my game plan nicely. Thanks for sharing, i'll give it a try.
 
I don't play much 8 ball but I look at that game like I would straight pool. You can get the first few balls off the table by playing loose but when you get down to those last 4 balls or so you better have a plan/pattern in mind to get you to the break ball (8 ball in this case).
MULLY
 
PoolBum said:
If I read this correctly, are you deciding whether to be stripes or solids based solely on which ball in step 2 is easiest to get shape on the 8 from? I assume you're not, since even though it might be easier to get shape on the 8 from the stripe nearest to the 8 than from the solid nearest to the 8, the solids might be the better choice given the layout of the rest of the table.

Also, using your method (find ball close to 8 that affords easy shape to 8, find next closest pocketable ball and easiest position from it to first ball, find next closest pocketable ball and easiest position from it to second ball...etc.) would not necessarily yield the easiest pattern/order to run the balls.

For simplicity, imagine that just the 8 ball and three solids (the 1, 2, and 3) are on the table, and you're deciding in which order to run them (so this will be after your 'linkage ball'). It is easiest to get from the 3 to the 8, so the 3 is ball 1. Of the remaining balls, it is easiest to get from the 2 to the 3, so the 2 is ball 2.

The problem with this analysis is that there may be a pattern which is better. For example, it may be easier to play shape on the 8 from the 3 than it is to play shape on the 8 from the 2, but the pattern 1-3-2-8 may be a higher percentage runout than the one you chose. But once you've chosen the 3 as your key ball (because it is the easiest ball to play shape on the 8 from), you've eliminated the 1-3-2-8 pattern.

For this reason I read the table holistically when playing 8-ball, taking the difficulty of the whole pattern into account when deciding in which order to run the balls.
Dear PoolBum;

Yes, you are correct this can and does happen. This is just a theory, and when theory and reality meet, seldom are the results what were planned.

This, in and of itself, does not invalidate the potential of said theory, however. It just means that we may have to be a little more creative in our execution.

There are of course many strategies to the game and I intend to post others that I have developed over the years and I sincerely hope you critique those as well.

That said, you are correct. However, for those that are still learning the game (who may not have developed a concrete plan of attack) this is one strategy with which they can experiment. I believe it can help less experienced players learn to play the game more successfully.

Obviously, you have developed your own strategies and/or learned some that you feel are successful and used them long enough to have some insight as to how to play 8-ball well. Which is great, because you are exactly the kind of person I want to examine my ideas.

So, thanks for your insight, PB. Hope you're reading when I post the next one.

Sincerely,

Rich
 
This is my favorite part of my favorite game; the science of winning at eight ball. I have an can sit for hours analyzing with very good players learning the pitfalls most common league shooters will make.

I feel a great deal of accomplishment when I can beat a better "shooter" with winning tactics.

Sometimes making a few balls and playing a solid safe will do it. Sometimes attacking trouble balls early on with the game in question will get you to the point where it's time to make your runout.

Again, nothing worse than a failed runout, when you run off all of your "pawns" within your category just to get down to a ball or the eight ball left that is difficult or even impossible to get at. But you learn. :)
 
A Different Approach

One of the frequent contributors to this forum told me that he had been in Vegas at the BCA Nationals, just like every year, but one year he tracked down some of the better players and picked their brains about strategy and so forth.

He said the one thing they all agreed on was, when they get to the table they looked to see if the 8 was makeable, then which ball would be used for the out ball, then which group had the fewest problems....and eventually if the layout was crap for both groups, where was the best place to play safe.

I personallychoose to only look 1 shot ahead. While I'm on a shot, I look to where I want to go with it for the next ball and that's about it. If you miss your spot now you have to re=think things. Too much thinking :D .

I can't change what happened and I can't do anything about what hasn't happened, I can only do my best to make my shot and make the cue ball do what I wanted after the shot so I don't waste time and energy thinking about alll the shots I still need to make.

It also never ceases to amaze me the number of players that get BIH and pass up the chance to breakout a problem area and hook their opponent. They think if it's a iffy shot they should leave it alone....only to have come back and bite them cuz it's all that's left to shoot at. The correct strategy would be, breakout your problem area and if you can't make your ball, leave your opponent the bad shape.
 
Last edited:
ne14tennis said:
...when they get to the table they looked to see if the 8 was makeable, then which ball would be used for the out ball, then which group had the fewest problems....and eventually if the layout was crap for both groups, where was the best place to play safe.

I personally choose to only look 1 shot ahead.

I have to admit I was more the 1 shot ahead player until recently.

The only problem with running out all the balls only to have messed up on the 8-ball or a ball or two before the 8-ball is that your opponent has too much opportunity to run out and beat you at that point. Even if they have a bad table to run out on, he can safe you repeatedly with so few balls on the table.

I hear people talk about "patterns" and couldn't comprehend what they were saying. That's because it's not really a repeatable pattern; it's more a method of running out that specific table.

So I have to agree that starting with the 8-ball and working backwards is a good idea.

I will always first look to see which balls are better. Which group has more on rails or clustered? Choose the other group. For now, it's a good rule of thumb.

8-ball is a very forgiving game. In the beginning if you don't get the shape you really want for the next ball, you do have options. So the method you started with isn't necessarily what you end up doing.

Just my 2 cents.
 
rkim99 said:
Qualifier: I am not a pro. In fact, I'm just a BCA 7. Just a self-taught run-of-the-mill player.

However, I've been playing 8 ball for over 25 years and in that time developed my own strategy for the game which has allowed me a certain level of consistent success which I am going to put forth here a piece at a time to see if most agree/disagree and why.

It is my hope that those that disagree can be succinct enough in their explanations for me to glean a better understanding of the game.

One of the first strategies I was taught about playing 8 ball was to "think three shots ahead." I disagree.

I look at a table this way:

1) Find the 8.
2) Find the two balls closest to the eight that are easily pocketed (balls that are frozen to rails or other balls don't count), opposite suits (locate a stripe and a solid closest to the 8).
3) Decide which would be easier to make shape for the 8. That's ball one.
4) Find the next closet pocketable ball and decide the easiest way to get shape after shooting that ball to get to ball one. (Ball two)
5) The next ball again that's easiest get shape to ball two (ball 3)
6) NOW find the most easily pocketed ball from where the cue is presently
7 Mentally run the first three balls (balls 7, 6, and 5), making shape for the fourth
8) The fourth ball is the 'linkage' ball. Make shape from the fourth that gives you the third (beginning of last run)
9) You're out

Actually, 8 ball strategy is more complicated than you have depicted.

IMHO, you FIRST have to determine if you can run out or not, and then which balls to choose, and then do as you have prescribed if you can runout, except that I really disagree with choosing balls near the 8 every time because this in fact may NOT be easy depending on where the opponent's balls are etc., and getting to the ideal spot may require greater precision.

If there is no runout, then you have to pick the balls with the least problems. For instance, if the balls you choose have more balls in clusters nearer the pockets then this is better.

BTW, it is more important in 8 ball to learn what to do when there is no runout, unless you have the dynamite break.

I recommend the 8 Ball Bible for the BEST book on strategy out there. It not only deals with the theory but also with the techniques which can really improve your game.
 
a quick note: I think the most important thing to know is what your chances of completing the runout! Then you need to factor in what the chances that your opponent will if you miss the runout. Then you need to make an educated choice how to move forward. The thing to remember is to always use your time at the table to improve your position. The funny thing is, making two balls often hurts your position!

I've been playing peer quite a bit of 8ball on a triple shimmed table. We don't often run 8 and out on this table, so there is a lot more blocking pockets, two way shots, and semi-safeties (breaking out balls while leaving an extremely dificult shot).
 
Treat the 8 Ball a problem ball

A lot of good posts here. I certainly agree that you need to look at the lie of the 8 ball right at the outset, and how you are going to get onto it.

Too many runnouts fail because the player has not thought about the way to finish the run until he has pocketed most of his balls. By then it is often way too late because he has got rid of most of his options.

On a minor point, Rich, would you agree that the best ball to get onto the 8ball is not always the one closest to it? Quite often you can find a stop shot that is half a table away which you can use as your approach ball.

Alternatively, you can quite often find a key ball that is very forgiving in terms of what shape you get on it, in that it gives you a route to the 8ball no matter how you land on it (ie you don't have to worry too much about getting on the 'right side' of the ball). A good place to look for these balls is a few inches off the rails - often you can land on one side of the ball and you get position for your next shot using a 1-rail route, land on the other side and you can go no-rail.

While I am a fan of backwards planning in theory, in practice I find the real difficulty with it is when there are problem balls (which with my break is more often than not, especially on a bar box :o ). In these situations, you really need to be giving priority to how you are going to deal with these problems - and for a number of reasons, I like to do this as early on as I can.

The way I square the circle is this: When I get to the table, I look to see what are the problem balls and what are the problem-solving balls (eg break balls, insurance balls etc). But I always include the 8ball as a 'problem'. I find that this approach will often will show up whether a runnout is on, and if so what pattern to follow.

I then take careful aim at my first ball, miss the pocket by at least 3 inches and send the white hurtling round the table changing the layout completely. The best laid plans etc....:D
 
Siz said:
I then take careful aim at my first ball, miss the pocket by at least 3 inches and send the white hurtling round the table changing the layout completely. The best laid plans etc....:D

Hehe, you stole that move from me!
 
jondrums said:
I've been playing peer quite a bit of 8ball on a triple shimmed table. We don't often run 8 and out on this table, so there is a lot more blocking pockets, two way shots, and semi-safeties (breaking out balls while leaving an extremely dificult shot).

Okay, I've been looking at this for awhile and I just can't figure it out. What is 'peer'?
 
My apologies t the court . . .

whitewolf said:
Actually, 8 ball strategy is more complicated than you have depicted.

IMHO, you FIRST have to determine if you can run out or not, and then which balls to choose, and then do as you have prescribed if you can runout, except that I really disagree with choosing balls near the 8 every time because this in fact may NOT be easy depending on where the opponent's balls are etc., and getting to the ideal spot may require greater precision.

If there is no runout, then you have to pick the balls with the least problems. For instance, if the balls you choose have more balls in clusters nearer the pockets then this is better.

BTW, it is more important in 8 ball to learn what to do when there is no runout, unless you have the dynamite break.

I recommend the 8 Ball Bible for the BEST book on strategy out there. It not only deals with the theory but also with the techniques which can really improve your game.
Okay fellas, I guess I should have chosen a couple of my words more carefully.

First things first though. You guys are of course correct: the first thing you have to do in a game of 8 is determine whether it's even possible to run out. Many times it is so diifcult as to make it unwise to try. Naturally this is due to the fact that many times there are clusters of balls that require break-out shots, etc.

HOWEVER, what I should have listed in the original post is that we were going to use an open table for the purposes of the examination; that no balls were clustered. That's my mistake and I do apologize.

Honestly that's part of the reason I titled the thing part I. In later installments I intended to discuss clusters, the strategy of breaking them, or not, depending on the situation.

That said, the cat's already tear-assing down the street. You guys have stolen a good bit of my thunder for the third part, but that's okay. I appreciate the time you guys have taken to review my post.

All things being equal, had I presented the situation as I just described with no clusters, my basic strategy of working the run backwards is valid, correct? If it's not, please tell me why.

P.S. I promise I get part II out soon and will probably just throw in part III since we are already talking about this stuff.
 
Back
Top