Best break cue
- Thread starter Flakeandrun
- Start date
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
What are the serious benefits? Curious
I don't want to damage the tip on the playing shaft.
I don't want to damage the joint (if using a different shaft with harder tip when I am giving it a good old bashing)
If I was only playing the MR format of 9ball, I'd consider that route maybe.
But I will play any format 8/9/10 ball. A lot of people here like 8ball, or 9ball (1 on the spot/192), and requiring 3 past the headstring.
Last edited:
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
What are the serious benefits? Curious
I don't want to damage the playing shaft.
I don't want to damage the joint (if using a different shaft with harder tip when I am giving it a good old bashing)
If I was only playing the MR format of 9ball, I'd consider that route maybe.
But I will play any format 8/9/10 ball. A lot of people here like 8ball, or 9ball (1 on the spot/192), and requiring 3 past the headstring.
If you damage the shaft or joint while breaking, your cue is junk.
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
I don't want to be replacing my tip every other month Is what I meant, not damage the shaft. Edited above to correct that
As for the joint, I don't think giving it a good old smash is going to do it any favours, no matter how well it's made. especially 8/10-ball, as I end up bending it into the table somewhat. Maybe I am wrong? I'm no engineer
Also, still curious on the perceived benefits of it. My break has certainly been heading in the right direction since choosing a dedicated breaker.
CanadianGuy
Well-known member
for me personally, been using various carbon shafts with kamui black tips from super soft to hard
each shaft has a good 6000 plus breaks above 20mph
no damage ever , the hard tips barely wear thin, the super softs last almost as long
takes a bit of getting used to, form needs to be very good to produce the same results as a good dedicated breaker, that's the biggest benefit of a breaker imo,
has worked well for me thus far
each shaft has a good 6000 plus breaks above 20mph
no damage ever , the hard tips barely wear thin, the super softs last almost as long
takes a bit of getting used to, form needs to be very good to produce the same results as a good dedicated breaker, that's the biggest benefit of a breaker imo,
has worked well for me thus far
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
I used a house cue for a brief period. I definitely prefer the dedicated breaker... probably a little bit of placebo effect involved.
I haven't had much experience breaking 'seriously' - as I've only committed to playing since December. Before that I'd play snooker regularly and only play the occasional bar game. With the only intention being to treat the balls like someone who called my mum fat...
Really spent a lot of time working on the break, as I would say, that's the hardest and most important adjustment to make when switching games (even between different pool disciplines)I prefer the Sonic tip on my PB Kai (which is some kind of fibre composite I believe), to the couple of phenolic tips I've had a hit with (although phenolic has worked well in 8/10 ball for me)
I'm using wood shafts on my playing cue, I don't get on with carbon (feel/sound/stiffness/cost) so am unlikely to switch to this. I am playing with tips on the softer side. Interesting to hear the super softs are not misshaping or pressing over time to leave a different feel. Maybe I will try it in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience
https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Champion-Exclusive-Hercules-Trainer/dp/B0CJ7GDF19 these are super nice at a giveaway price. Couple friends have them and they work great. Well made, breaks/jumps fine. No need to spend more. If you don't like the tip upgrade to a Whitediamond, Bulletproof, etc.
I used to smack everything playing 9 ball and mashed tips to oblivion - some ferrule too, if I let it go too long, but these days there isn't a lot else to go wrong on a cue. I think if you damage something, it's probably a faulty stroke. Although, the scientists will tell you there is no way to mash into a ball in normal play; from on top for sure but that's it.
It does occur to me that if you break only with your player (I do) a wood shaft might "remember" the break and bias itself away from a neutral playing action. Could be negligible or nonsense. IDK...
I just break with a sneaky made by the same cue maker as my playing cue. Tip is a Kamui Black Hard. I really don't see a reason for anything more then that.
i’ve owned many break cues and bk rush is the best for me
George the Greek
Well-known member
I use an old Dufferin Sneaky Pete (17oz) with the shaft turned down to 11.5mm and a LePro tip. I had a collar installed so it didn't look like a house cue lol. I break pretty decent with it for short money and it's nothing fancy.