Best break/jump cue

chenjy9 said:
MitchAlsup said:
The shaft one wants for breaking is stiff and strong
The shaft one wants for jumping is light with significant flex.

I can't see how anyone would want a J/B with the physics of the shafts being so different.
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chenjy9 said:
Not everyone can afford to own 3 different cues. While a JB cue will always be stiff, having something that you can make short and light is better than nothing. Heck… before jump cues were a thing, people jumped with play cues.

Not optimal > Nothing


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The person you were responding to is right though. You need a dedicated jump cue. Most J/B cues the front when taken apart is too heavy to be optimal. You don't neet to spent much on a jump cue as long as the dynamics are correct.
 
middleofnowhere said:
The person you were responding to is right though. You need a dedicated jump cue. Most J/B cues the front when taken apart is too heavy to be optimal. You don't neet to spent much on a jump cue as long as the dynamics are correct.
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You do NOT need a dedicated jump cue. You may want one, but it is definitely not a necessity. Like I mentioned earlier, "not optimal" does not mean "unusable". Not to mention, you aren't even considering the potential hidden costs. What if you only had a 2x2 case? Then in addition to a jump cue, now you have to buy a new case, either one specifically for the jump cue or a 2x3 case. If you play with nice cues, that usually means you also want a nice cue case to protect said nice cues. A good 2x3 or greater case typically runs you at least another $100.
 
chenjy9 said:
You do NOT need a dedicated jump cue. You may want one, but it is definitely not a necessity. Like I mentioned earlier, "not optimal" does not mean "unusable". Not to mention, you aren't even considering the potential hidden costs. What if you only had a 2x2 case? Then in addition to a jump cue, now you have to buy a new case, either one specifically for the jump cue or a 2x3 case. If you play with nice cues, that usually means you also want a nice cue case to protect said nice cues. A good 2x3 or greater case typically runs you at least another $100.
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Then you don't need a personal cue at all for that matter, play with a house cue. Your just looking to argue, but you know you are wrong. As far as a case, the handle of most jump cues fits in the pouch on most cases and the shaft inside.

As far as that goes, get a $5. soft case for your jump cue and bungy it to the other case. Why would someone want a jump cue that doesn't jump properly?
 
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middleofnowhere said:
Then you don't need a personal cue at all for that matter, play with a house cue. Your just looking to argue, but you know you are wrong. As far as a case, the handle of most jump cues fits in the pouch on most cases and the shaft inside.

As far as that goes, get a $5. soft case for your jump cue and bungy it to the other case. Why would someone want a jump cue that doesn't jump properly?
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"Your just looking to argue, but you know you are wrong." Think you might need to look long and hard into a mirror for this one, friend. I am not being argumentative at all, simply honest. I also don't think I am wrong at all. In fact, I 100% believe that you and the other poster are wrong here.

The initial point of discussion was why get a JB cue at all instead of a break cue and a jump cue. I provided an explanation. Fact of the matter is that not everyone cares to own a dedicated jump cue. Fact is, any cue can properly jump a CB and a JB will help you jump even easier than a playing cue simply due to it allowing you to hike up the shaft higher. Not everyone cares to carry around an extra shaft and handle either. Whether or not you personally choose to agree is besides the point. Facts are facts.

As for your last point, "Why would someone want a jump cue that doesn't jump properly?" Does this even make sense to you when you re-read it? You can properly jump a cue ball with ANY type of cue. People were jumping with house cues and personal cues way back before jump cues were even a thing. A JB cue CAN AND WILL jump a CB properly. In fact, by unscrewing the bottom part and making the cue shorter by itself will allow you to jump the CB easier than with a full length cue. All a jump cue does is allow you jump properly with much greater ease.
 
Any cue will properly hit a ball. Why would anyone need to buy a personal cue when there is already a wall full for free ones to use at the hall.

Just learn to hit the ball properly and you wont be running around looking for the easy button.
 
Cuedup said:
Any cue will properly hit a ball. Why would anyone need to buy a personal cue when there is already a wall full for free ones to use at the hall.

Just learn to hit the ball properly and you wont be running around looking for the easy button.
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People get a personal playing cue for consistency. Consistency doesn't change between using a JB cue vs a dedicated jump cue; you are still consistently using the same cue for the task.
 
chenjy9 said:
"Your just looking to argue, but you know you are wrong." Think you might need to look long and hard into a mirror for this one, friend. I am not being argumentative at all, simply honest. I also don't think I am wrong at all. In fact, I 100% believe that you and the other poster are wrong here.

The initial point of discussion was why get a JB cue at all instead of a break cue and a jump cue. I provided an explanation. Fact of the matter is that not everyone cares to own a dedicated jump cue. Fact is, any cue can properly jump a CB and a JB will help you jump even easier than a playing cue simply due to it allowing you to hike up the shaft higher. Not everyone cares to carry around an extra shaft and handle either. Whether or not you personally choose to agree is besides the point. Facts are facts.

As for your last point, "Why would someone want a jump cue that doesn't jump properly?" Does this even make sense to you when you re-read it? You can properly jump a cue ball with ANY type of cue. People were jumping with house cues and personal cues way back before jump cues were even a thing. A JB cue CAN AND WILL jump a CB properly. In fact, by unscrewing the bottom part and making the cue shorter by itself will allow you to jump the CB easier than with a full length cue. All a jump cue does is allow you jump properly with much greater ease.
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I made an instruction video on jumping years ago. I jump from 1 inch away, I jump and bank, jump and kick, spin off rails, play position and so on.

What the jump cue actually does is let you jump with much less speed and force. It also due to the light weight bounces off the cueball letting it rise off the table.

The heavy cue traps the cueball and it won't hop from a close angle. With a whole playing cue it is almost possable to to jump across the width of the table and keep the cueball on the table. That is because of the weight.

The first time I saw Pat Fleming use a jump cue it was a full length house cue. What we didn't know at the time till I picked it up was, it only weighed like 9 ounces. He tricked us. He could do things no one else could and we didn't know why. Then the cat was out of the bag.

Later the short light jump cue was developed. I can go to Home depot buy a 48 inch 1/2 inch maple dowel, put a tip on it, tape some added weight to the end to bring it to about 8 ounces and jump equal to most any jump cue you buy.

Remember the jump pipe? It was outlawed. People were making their own and showing up at tournaments. All that is needed is the right dynamics and you have a jump cue.
 
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Cuedup said:
Any cue will properly hit a ball. Why would anyone need to buy a personal cue when there is already a wall full for free ones to use at the hall.

Just learn to hit the ball properly and you wont be running around looking for the easy button.
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This is an even worse generalization than "it's the Indian not the arrow" statement.
 
Cuedup said:
Any cue will properly hit a ball. Why would anyone need to buy a personal cue when there is already a wall full for free ones to use at the hall.

Just learn to hit the ball properly and you wont be running around looking for the easy button.
Click to expand...
Seems to be an older thread from the summer but I got a Viking crush break cue a few months ago so I thought I would comment on my experience. Break cues are worth it. I picked this up used for a little over $200 with the jump extension. The jump part I decided against using. I got a decent table not trying to jack up my rails with balls flying off the table. Also I believe that you should be kicking not jumping shots. Just personal preference/opinion. In regards to breaking this cue smashes 9 ball racks. I can make the wing everytime usually plus +1 or 2. Spread is great. I was breaking with a lucky mcdermott and while it worked I would get a ton of vibration from the cue and I warped the shaft in only a couple of months. Break patterns were not as consistent. I know some hate phenolic but I dig it. I never chalk now and it's very rare I have a miscue. It just smashes the cue ball into the rack. I have also dialed down power with this cue and breaking. I have more control now and this shaft is beefy I don't think it will ever warp. It's also nice to keep the wear and tear off your primary player imo.

Brent
 
Of all the jump / break cues I have ever had, I owned 3 that I liked. 1 I would like to have back is my purple heart DZ j/b sneaky with my name J. Duke in the hoppe ring of the butt sleeve. I enjoyed a couple Andy Gilbert j/b sneaky Pete's as well, but my fav was a bacote model. Now I own and like a Josh Tweadway j/b I bought here not long ago. If I had to start over and was unable to get a DZ, my choice would be a Gilbert for sure

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I have a Lucasi J/B, works just fine. Looks good too. Actually I have 2 shafts for that cue. 1 for breaking and 1 for playing.
 
I'm a bit to old fashioned I don't intentionally try to jump the cue ball off the table but love kicking at the object ball with good success normally .

I've recently started breaking with a Predator BK2 which I enjoy using way more than the other JB cue I have at 25 oz and instead of bringing out a custom cue to the bars that I play in I shoot with a older Predator SP , now I'm just waiting for Predator to take notice and sign me up on their semi pro staff ha ha don't worry I won't hold my breath !
 
I've had a lot of Jump/Breaks and dedicated Jumpers, and IMHO the best J/B for the money is the PureX 4-piece. Price used to be around $200, is now closer to $300, but still a great value. Breaks as good as any dedicated break cue I've used (currently a BK Rush) and jumps pretty well, plus the multiple configuration options give you a lot of flexibility. If I had to carry only one, that would be it.

People say you don't need a dedicated jumper, and that's true if your primary goal for jumping is to not give up ball in hand. If your goals for jumping include making balls and playing position, that's where dedicated jumpers fill a need.
 
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