best cue tip tool

Never liked the Porper tool...not accurate enough imo...
It's all about the user....it works or doesn't for the hands using it.
it doesn't
👍
It can for sure, I have a ferrule to prove it too
You do not have to prove anything ... please describe how you think the ferrule got damaged so new users know what to look for.
and upon contacting Longoni was told that it is possible and they would pay for the replacement of the ferrule
Longoni looks good...as for their guarantee... who needs the agg of having it redone. To new users ...with any tip tool practice on a beater.
.

But it is the best tool I have used so far.
That's all that counts.
 
I have ivory ferrules on my custom cues and happen to reside in a state where ivory was banned for sale a decade ago.
So if I damage a ferrule, it will be permanent since I cannot replace it with a new ivory ferrule. Trimming a mushroom
tip is something I only entrust only to someone with a lathe and lots of experience replacing cue tips very successfully.
Or do it by hand, taping the ferrule and using a kiridachi knife.Tutorials can be found on youtube.Apart from using a lathe this seems to be the only way to guarantee not touching the ferrule.
 
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It's all about the user....it works or doesn't for the hands using it.

👍

You do not have to prove anything ... please describe how you think the ferrule got damaged so new users know what to look for.

Longoni looks good...as for their guarantee... who needs the agg of having it redone. To new users ...with any tip tool practice on a beater.

That's all that counts.
I was pushing too hard when I cut into the ferrule but even when applying little pressure I could see whitening of the ferrule in spots where tip and ferrule meet, that can only be caused by the blade grazing the ferrule.Think about it, how can the tool perfectly differentiate between ferrule and tip..?All these tools are based on a pencil sharpener principle.

Again, the tool is very good and you can replace a tip quickly with it, but as far as Longoni saying that it cant cut into the ferrule is nonsense and if you want something to guarantee not touching the ferrule, that tool is not the one nor is anything else that uses the pencil sharpener approach.
 
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It's all about the user....it works or doesn't for the hands using it.

👍

You do not have to prove anything ... please describe how you think the ferrule got damaged so new users know what to look for.

Longoni looks good...as for their guarantee... who needs the agg of having it redone. To new users ...with any tip tool practice on a beater.

That's all that counts.
No, all that counts is not touching the ferrule, if that is important to a player.
 
Or do it by hand, taping the ferrule and using a kiridachi knife.Tutorials can be found on youtube.Apart from using a lathe this seems to be the only way to guarantee not touching the ferrule.
It always works best if you have a vice and can towel wrap your shaft so you can smooth the contour of the tip.
Thank goodness I have a Master PBIA Instructor that’s my best friend. He pretty much maintains my cue tips &
will replace my tips as needed. He does a fantastic job of installing my tips so mushrooming is only very slight.
 
I was pushing too hard when I cut into the ferrule but even when applying little pressure I could see whitening of the ferrule in spots where tip and ferrule meet, that can only be caused by the blade grazing the ferrule.Think about it, how can the tool perfectly differentiate between ferrule and tip..?All these tools are based on a pencil sharpener principle.

Again, the tool is very good and you can replace a tip quickly with it, but as far as Longoni saying that it cant cut into the ferrule is nonsense and if you want something to guarantee not touching the ferrule, that tool is not the one nor is anything else that uses the pencil sharpener approach.
Was it adjusted properly. If so it can be set to not touch the ferrule. If you are not familiar with what I’m saying that explains why it did not work out.
 
The right way? With a lathe and experience.

The wrong way that usually leaves peoples shafts and ferrules chewed up? Get one of those cutting tools off amazon / tip shapers.

Most good players I know who don't own a lathe themselves either find someone who does, or they just deal with the mushrooming for the most part.
 
I was pushing too hard when I cut into the ferrule but even when applying little pressure I could see whitening of the ferrule in spots where tip and ferrule meet, that can only be caused by the blade grazing the ferrule.Think about it, how can the tool perfectly differentiate between ferrule and tip..?All these tools are based on a pencil sharpener principle.

It always works best if you have a vice and can towel wrap your shaft so you can smooth the contour of the tip.
Thank goodness I have a Master PBIA Instructor that’s my best friend. He pretty much maintains my cue tips &
will replace my tips as needed. He does a fantastic job of installing my tips so mushrooming is only very slight.
How does the installing affect the mushrooming (except for maybe burnishing the sides, which is a standard procedure)..?Wouldn't the material of the tip be the main factor..?
 
How does the installing affect the mushrooming (except for maybe burnishing the sides, which is a standard procedure)..?Wouldn't the material of the tip be the main factor..?
If you compress the tip before installing, trim the tip completely level and symmetrical with the ferrules, mine being ivory I previously mentioned require extra caution because of where I live, the tip does not mushroom quickly requiring trimming. I have two tips he installed that could be trimmed but really do not require it. Until I notice in my sight picture the tip looks off and needs to be trimmed, I don’t bother with doing it. If I feel it when applying chalk, well, I’ve never waited that long to trim a tip so that would signify my mental alertness is really diminishing fast.
 
If you compress the tip before installing, trim the tip completely level and symmetrical with the ferrules, mine being ivory I previously mentioned require extra caution because of where I live, the tip does not mushroom quickly requiring trimming. I have two tips he installed that could be trimmed but really do not require it. Until I notice in my sight picture the tip looks off and needs to be trimmed, I don’t bother with doing it. If I feel it when applying chalk, well, I’ve never waited that long to trim a tip so that would signify my mental alertness is really diminishing fast.
Wouldnt compressing the tip change the hardness though..?Its obvious that the harder the tip, the less mushrooming takes place but if someone likes a soft tip for example..?
 
Wouldnt compressing the tip change the hardness though..?Its obvious that the harder the tip, the less mushrooming takes place but if someone likes a soft tip for example..?
I mainly play with Kamui Black Clear Soft on 80% of my cues so that’s likely why he does that.
With his credentials, and having also played on the pro circuit in the 90’s, I trust his judgement
that has resulted in zero complaints from me over the past couple of decades.
 
Oh, I am sure that your friend is more than capable but I also saying that a compressed soft tip is not soft anymore
therefore its not the installation of the tip per se but the altering of the hardness that makes the tip not mushroom.

Of course, I understand that this could be viewed as part of the installation.
 
The right way? With a lathe and experience.

The wrong way that usually leaves peoples shafts and ferrules chewed up? Get one of those cutting tools off amazon / tip shapers.

Most good players I know who don't own a lathe themselves either find someone who does, or they just deal with the mushrooming for the most part.
Rafael Martinez and Tommy Kennedy do their own tips for example.Efren doesn't.
 

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