Best Layer'd Tip

I disagree ...

That is the cost of the tip and installation both from what I have been told ... and I said up to, not normal cost.

Second, I disagree about the TipPik, it slightly separates so chalk will hold on the tip. If not this, what would you use, a scuffer - no thanks ...
You know, you are not going to penetrate the tip very much with the TipPik, just slightly. I have asked a professional custom cue maker what I should use for my cue on all maintenance products.

I use to use a scouring pad or very fine sandpaper on my shaft for years, until
I was told what it would gradually do to the shaft, and that only a chemical treatment should be used so as to not change the shape or levelness of the shaft.

Some guys grind their tip with tools like they are trying to whittle something
down, probably not realizing that later on, it can have adverse effects on the tip -- like miscueing several times.

I have used several tools with tips over the years, originally had a 1929
Brad scuffer, had the cube, had the ultimate tip tool, but nothing gives
better results for a simple application as the new TipPik, and I haven't had any problem with my Hercules medium hard layered tips at all after
6 years of use.

Troy said:
First, $60-$70 for a Moori installed is way over the top. You're being taken.
Second, using a TipPik® on a layered tip is not a good idea. The picking action tends to soften the top layer which leads to delamination.

Troy...
Click to expand...
 
our local cueman charges $40 for a moori tip. sounds like alot but they can last a pretty long time. i had one on for 7 months and with 2-3 hours of play per day i think i got my moneys worth.
 
Snapshot9 said:
That is the cost of the tip and installation both from what I have been told ... .
Click to expand...

doesn't matter if you disagree or not.......you're wrong.........or.......someone out there installing tips is fu&$ing over people.

i'm starting to see a pattern here for opinions you post on here........most seem to be leaning on the wrong side more times than not :rolleyes:

VAP
 
Have it your way. Your comment about using "a scouring pad or very fine sandpaper on my shaft for years" tells me enough about your vast depth of experience.

Troy
Snapshot9 said:
That is the cost of the tip and installation both from what I have been told ... and I said up to, not normal cost.

Second, I disagree about the TipPik, it slightly separates so chalk will hold on the tip. If not this, what would you use, a scuffer - no thanks ...
You know, you are not going to penetrate the tip very much with the TipPik, just slightly. I have asked a professional custom cue maker what I should use for my cue on all maintenance products.

I use to use a scouring pad or very fine sandpaper on my shaft for years, until
I was told what it would gradually do to the shaft, and that only a chemical treatment should be used so as to not change the shape or levelness of the shaft.

Some guys grind their tip with tools like they are trying to whittle something
down, probably not realizing that later on, it can have adverse effects on the tip -- like miscueing several times.

I have used several tools with tips over the years, originally had a 1929
Brad scuffer, had the cube, had the ultimate tip tool, but nothing gives
better results for a simple application as the new TipPik, and I haven't had any problem with my Hercules medium hard layered tips at all after
6 years of use.
Click to expand...
 
Used to use Moori medium. Switched to Talisman Medium and I just love it. I have a shaft with Talisman medium and one with Talisman soft. For some odd reason I miscue qutie often with the soft. Talisman play just as well as Mooris and at half the price.
 
I use either a Morri or Talisman hard. Can't tell much, if any, difference between them. In fact, I'm no longer sure which cue has which tip.

RE: the Tip Pik on layered cues I don't know quite what to think. I have used the Tip Pik and I don't twist it at all...just push it into the tip a bit and move to another spot on the tip. Other means of roughing up the tip to hold chalk are abrasive and seem to be a violent means of getting the tip to hold chalk. I've not had any problems but I seldom find a need to use anything. The Moori's and the Talismans, even the hard ones I use, don't need any roughing up. They hold chalk just fine without messing with them.
 
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I have been using a moori H/fast I put on over a year ago. I never had to shape it, or cut a mushroom down. I turn my radius on the lathe, so I don't use a scuffer, just a tip pik. I don't twist when I use It, just barely poke small holes on the surface of the tip to help It hold chalk when the tip gets alittle glazed over. My tip is pretty much the same thickness as when I put It on, so unless It pops off, or I pull It off to try another tip, I should have no problem with It wearing down. I am going to try a medium on My extra shaft to see if I get any benifit in performance from it.

That does seem kind of pricey if just for one tip installed, the most we ever charged was 45-50 and that was paying retail for the tip when they were alot more money, I thought that was too high, but some people were more then happy to pay what It cost for the tip. Nowdays most decent cue guys can do 2 tips at that price, unless you start getting into having dents pulled, ferrule work, and the shaft reconditioned. But hey, If the guy does good work then maybe It's worth It. Sometimes hard to put a price on quality, or another man's time.

I have used many of the tips mentioned in the past, and a few that were not. Most them were good, and had their own characteristics. Some where just what I needed at the time as My stroke is always changing the older I get.

I hear This question all the time, and It's hard for me to say which is the best, because the question is very subjective to say the least. I would say that the best tip is whatever is working for the individual at the time :D Some people think if they spend more on a tip, It's going to make them shoot better, and It's just not always true. Everyone has a different style, and needs various amounts of control from a tip. That's where the various characteristics of a tip come into play IMO. I also have have cues with a different tip simply because that paticular cue played better with It.

Some people are so unconsious as to what tip they are using that It does not even make much difference, they can use most any tip on any cue they pick up. Must be nice :p
 
35 years ago my dad liked the Elkmasters... soft, good control. The downside is mushrooming and shorter life.

Harder tips offer longer life, layered tips the best of all, if you don't fiddle with them much and keep chalked up.

My Moori M's last several years. I have seen these same tips go in 3 months from some players always taking files and dissatisfaction to their tips.

Ultimately, a matter of preference. I am now used to the Moori's and have no complaints on holding shape, long life, control, etc. I suppose also living in Japan, being able to buy them for about $12 and having them installed free makes the cost of Moori's balanced against their long life a pretty easy decision for me.

Any miscues I don't blame on the tip, it is faulty chalking or poor stroke on my part.

Good luck in your search for the ultimate tip.
 
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