Best way to cut wrap groove

patrickjuhlin

patrickjuhlin

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I am having trouble cutting a wrap groove in a finished sneaky pete I made.

Here is my setup and the tools I have to work with.

Uniques Taper Shaper

Hightower deluxe lathe (do not have taper bar or attachment)

Harbor Freight Mini lathe.

I understand I could do it on my Unique Taper Shaper machine but the Jacobs chuck attachment I have that allows me to chuck up the pin to mount the cue is not centered. I am having a hard time adjusting it to get it centered.

Picture of Chuck Adapter for Unique Taper Shaper

drill_chuck_and_adapter_400.jpg


Anyone have any suggestions on how to center that Jacobs chuck attachment.

Other than that I can't follow the original taper on the cue with any other machine I own.

Thanks in advance.
Pat J
 
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What I have done in the past is take a piece of maple 1" round by 1 1/2" long.
Tap it for the thread on the cue face it off and install it on the cue chuck it up in your lathe. Center drill the maple on the back end then stamp it with your tool for the Unique spur drive set it up in your taper shaper and it should be very close to center. With a little adjustment you can get it to dead nuts center.
This has worked for me.
I do the same thing for shaft retapering. I have made plugs to fit in the shafts so I can set them on center.
Hope this helps.
David
 
ddcuerepair said:
What I have done in the past is take a piece of maple 1" round by 1 1/2" long.
Tap it for the thread on the cue face it off and install it on the cue chuck it up in your lathe. Center drill the maple on the back end then stamp it with your tool for the Unique spur drive set it up in your taper shaper and it should be very close to center. With a little adjustment you can get it to dead nuts center.
This has worked for me.
I do the same thing for shaft retapering. I have made plugs to fit in the shafts so I can set them on center.
Hope this helps.
David
Click to expand...

I've been doing roughly the same thing for many years when I encounter a cue with the pin a little out of whack, (not one of mine of course :) ) but I make them a little longer so I can re-use them by just screwing them on the butt, chucking it up in the lathe, re-facing and recentering the "plug" with respect to the center of the cue.

I've also found it necessary with some rather crooked cues which came in for repairs/upgrades to chuck the cue right above the wrap, while undercutting, thereby eliminating any runout in the forearm from throwing it off.

just more hot air!

Sherm
 
patrickjuhlin said:
I am having trouble cutting a wrap groove in a finished sneaky pete I made.

Here is my setup and the tools I have to work with.

Uniques Taper Shaper

Hightower deluxe lathe (do not have taper bar or attachment)

Harbor Freight Mini lathe.

I understand I could do it on my Unique Taper Shaper machine but the Jacobs chuck attachment I have that allows me to chuck up the pin to mount the cue is not centered. I am having a hard time adjusting it to get it centered.

Picture of Chuck Adapter for Unique Taper Shaper

drill_chuck_and_adapter_400.jpg


Anyone have any suggestions on how to center that Jacobs chuck attachment.

Other than that I can't follow the original taper on the cue with any other machine I own.

Thanks in advance.
Pat J
Click to expand...

I don't know how a Taper Shaper works but if you can use it to taper your butt I can't really see where you would have a problem what-so-ever in cutting the wrap groove. After making your last pass turning the butt to final size, just mark your wrap area and cut in an additional .020 or so (.040 smaller than butt size), as close as you can to the marks leaving the ends of the groove feathered to the regular butt size. I then sand, install pin, fit shafts and put on and rub out finish. I then take the finished cue and chuck it up in my lathe as near to one end of the wrap groove as possible to insure that it is running dead nuts and then with a very sharp tool and the lathe running slowly ( 3 to 500 rpm) I cut to the proper wrap depth squaring the channel. I then turn the butt around and square the other end. I then take some sand paper and blend both ends of the wrap groove with the taper that is already there from when the groove was cut. Both of the squared ends in the channel will tun straight for a very short distance before blending in with the tapered part but it is such a short distance that it can't be discerned.

I do it this way on every cue that I wrap or rewrap to insure the wrap channel is the proper depth and square for the new wrap. The very ends are the only place that a person can discern that the wrap is to low or proud of the cue itself.

Dick
 
Make a j/p for the butt's pin. Face off so 1/8" of the pin is exposed.
I hope the pin is center drilled.
Dent the j/b for the spur driver.

Turn around your taper bar and indicate the bar's face and adjust for the angle. Lock it.

Cut the grove.
 
I have a question in the same topic but different issue, when cutting a wrap groove deeper, ( linen wrso to leather or stacked leather) the finish on the endd if the wrap groove get that hazing ie.air got in there or little chips on the edges then I need to refinish it...is there a trick,I make sure bits are sharp I've tried slow, fast rpms same result, is there a trick? Or what else can I try. Ty
 
Always feed your tool in towards the cue, never face off the shoulder going away from the cue. You can also try scoring the finish with a sharp razor before making your cut with the lathe tool , you can use a wrap of masking tape as your guide and you have to be very careful to not accidentally go off your mark.
 
EagleIQ'S said:
I have a question in the same topic but different issue, when cutting a wrap groove deeper, ( linen wrso to leather or stacked leather) the finish on the endd if the wrap groove get that hazing ie.air got in there or little chips on the edges then I need to refinish it...is there a trick,I make sure bits are sharp I've tried slow, fast rpms same result, is there a trick? Or what else can I try. Ty
Click to expand...
Use sharp lathe bit inserts .
 
Remove the chuck so you have the center and spur driver exposed. Make a delrin joint protector, threads of your cue in one end, 60 degree center hole and tabs for the spur driver in the other end. Use the limit bushings so the router only can travel in the wrap groove area. You need to cut the shoulder on each end on your lathe.
 
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