Since you're into the wood, I'm going to suggest that you re-finish the whole cue. Had it been just chips in the clear-coat, they could have been dealt with individually. The only concern at that point would be the 'blending' of the new clear-coat into the original.
Re-finish of the whole handle may seem more daunting than spot-finishing but can actually be easier if done right. The problem with spot-finishing the cue the way it is, requires that you match the Predator 'black'. Your odds of matching it exactly are about 1 in 100. Without a perfect match in the black, you'd see every one of the 'patches'. Don't let anyone tell you that black is black. There are as many shades of black as there are shades of gray.
With a total refinish, you don't have to sand all the way down to bare wood.
You're more concerned with getting the surface smooth and level because you're going to spray 'flat-black' over the entire cue. Rattle-can flat-black will do just fine. If you want to preserve the BK decals, tape them off before you shoot the black. Once you have the entire cue shot with a sufficient amount of black, remove the tape and lightly blend the new black into the Pred. black at the decals, removing any ridges that developed at the edge of the tape.
Once you're satisfied with your application of the black and everything is smooth and flat, you can begin the clear-coat process. You will be amazed at the level of gloss the clear will add to the flat-black. You will 'break' this gloss in your wet sanding. Now's where it gets tricky, though it's not all that trick.
Do your wet sanding all the way to 3000 grit and stop. That should put you at the matte-gloss level of the BK2. Do not use buffing/polishing compounds unless the cue is a BK1. IIRC, they were a high-gloss.
Hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.
