Blade for taper

fiolledapool

fiolledapool

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi friends,

I want to buy a new blade (wiht arbor) for cut/taper my shafts and butts .

Any idea? any store? I want a good blade.
 
fiolledapool said:
hi friends,

I want to buy a new blade (wiht arbor) for cut/taper my shafts and butts .

Any idea? any store? I want a good blade.
Click to expand...

I don't know about near you but the Home Depot by me has them.
I believe they carry Freud.
 
Dave38 said:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/everlast/evr22.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html#Anchor slotct3w
I use the second link, the first I think I got from JoeyinCali. I plan to get some from them once my stock of the others is gone, which if I hit my live center a few more times, that could be real soon:D I use the real thin one 1/16" for final cuts on a slow travel and spindle speed
Dave
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Hey Dave, Why do you use such a thin cutter on the last pass? I use a saw machine myself for shafts but I do use a slot cutter on my Butt lathe and on it I use one that is about .25". I haven't experimented so this is why I'm asking. When I started using them I figured wider would be better as on the saw machine. The saw blade tips act like little planes and scalp the shaft as it turns. The blade needs to be centered perfectly so that the center of the carbide is coming into contact with the shaft so that you don't get lines cut along the shaft. Getting this exactly right is the difficulty on a saw shaft machine. I just took the idea a step further and got the slot cutter wide so as to make it easier to have the center of the carbides contacting the wood. I don't know if this theory is working or not and that is why I'm asking.

By the way, it seems to me that for the cutters to make contact with any metal, other than aluminum, would destroy their usefulness instantly. I turned a couple of cues with Nickle/silver rings and I believe that they have destroyed the sharpness on my cutters. I have stops on my lathe to ensure this never occurs.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Hey Dave, Why do you use such a thin cutter on the last pass? I use a saw machine myself for shafts but I do use a slot cutter on my Butt lathe and on it I use one that is about .25". I haven't experimented so this is why I'm asking. When I started using them I figured wider would be better as on the saw machine. The saw blade tips act like little planes and scalp the shaft as it turns. The blade needs to be centered perfectly so that the center of the carbide is coming into contact with the shaft so that you don't get lines cut along the shaft. Getting this exactly right is the difficulty on a saw shaft machine. I just took the idea a step further and got the slot cutter wide so as to make it easier to have the center of the carbides contacting the wood. I don't know if this theory is working or not and that is why I'm asking.

By the way, it seems to me that for the cutters to make contact with any metal, other than aluminum, would destroy their usefulness instantly. I turned a couple of cues with Nickle/silver rings and I believe that they have destroyed the sharpness on my cutters. I have stops on my lathe to ensure this never occurs.

Dick
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I read on here somewhere at one time that the thinner blades didn't push the wood as much when cutting, so I tried it and it seemed ok, but I've actually been thinking along your theory and will be trying it and see if it cuts smoother. I am using a PC trim router and it sounds louder and rougher with the larger blades on it, so I've shyed away from using them. What size router are you using Dick?
Concerning the stops, I've been trying to come up with a good way to do that. My 50-60 yr old Atlas lathe takes awhile to come to a complete stop, and There isn't a whole lot of room to finish the cut and have room to slow to a stop. I really need to get a longer, slimmer live center.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I really need to get a longer, slimmer live center.
Dave
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Good luck without paying a lot? They did not seem to be plentiful when I was shopping.

Kelly
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://www.mytoolplace.com/Whitesid...-Wing-Slotting-Cutter---6710A-P2258C1727.aspx
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8151&refcode=05INFROO
I use Whiteside now. Much better than Everlast.
I've used as thin as .080.
I like the 1/8th thick one.
Whiteside is the truest of all wing cutters I've tried.
Their arbor is really nice too. I turn on the rpm at almost full speed on my Bosch router and it stays true.
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oh...good product, but I have a question. Can I cut/taper butts with silver ring with a Whiteside?
 
Yea, I know. I bought one from brianna a couple years ago, it worked fine untill I hit it 3 times and destroyed the head the last time! I tried the ones that are sold for the taig lathes, but wasn't impressed with them. There isn't any shield over the bearing so the dirt gets in and the O ring seal comes out. Their spring loaded, but a real weak one. Seemed to have a lot of play also. I now use them in my turning setup for finish. :(
Dave
 
i have a loews, home depot ect in my area. everyone does. i find the odds and ends in stock in a few smaller mom and pop hardware stores often. check out the little guys locally
 
fiolledapool said:
oh...good product, but I have a question. Can I cut/taper butts with silver ring with a Whiteside?
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I would certainly think so. I cut aluminum rings all day long with mine and silver isn't that much harder than aluminum. Nickle/silver rings however have no silver or aluminum content and they are harder. They are made of Copper, Nickle and Zinc alloy.

Dick
 
Dave38 said:
I read on here somewhere at one time that the thinner blades didn't push the wood as much when cutting, so I tried it and it seemed ok, but I've actually been thinking along your theory and will be trying it and see if it cuts smoother. I am using a PC trim router and it sounds louder and rougher with the larger blades on it, so I've shyed away from using them. What size router are you using Dick?
Concerning the stops, I've been trying to come up with a good way to do that. My 50-60 yr old Atlas lathe takes awhile to come to a complete stop, and There isn't a whole lot of room to finish the cut and have room to slow to a stop. I really need to get a longer, slimmer live center.
Dave
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You can get a cnc #2 MT live center from Enco for around $100-120.
I use a very small center hole on the wood on the tail end and it gives you a little extra room. Have to make sure when your doing multiples that the center holes on both ends are the same depth and the pieces are the same length......then you only have to check your stop just once. I always set my tail out at the 1 inch mark so if something isn't kosher with the length I'll know before I turn the lathe on. (I've routered my live center a couple times in my earlier days....makes one God awful of a noise!)
For what it's worth.....I've tried about 10 or more styles of cutting blades for all of my rounding and tapering and have always returned to the 1/16" thin ones for everything from shafts to turning squares of exotics.
Seems I just get a better cut on my set up with them.
As far as a stop for you.....I epoxied a magnet on a 20 amp switch (spring loaded...push in to turn off style) this allows me to put it anywhere along the bed of the lathe for any length of material that I'm cutting....it's wired to turn off the lathe and the router with one push of the button. Once it hits the button head it only moves approx another 3/16 of an inch before coming to a complete stop.

Hope this helps....
 
Dave38 said:
I have the smaller version that Joe sells. It does ok, but I think the price is a little high. I have only used it for the finish cuttings on butts, I use a straight router bit for the roughing and right up to the finish ones.
Dave
Click to expand...
DITTO on the price.
 
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