Break Cue Shaft Taper Preference

Chopdoc

Chopdoc

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What do you like in a break shaft?

I see some like the stiffer/straighter "European" style taper...like a billiards shaft...while others like something more like a longer taper pool shaft.

What is your personal preference and why? Pros and cons?

I don't care about brands etc, or even tips...just the taper is what I am curious to hear comments about.


Thanks. :)



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My previous breakers all had pro style tapers on em and I liked it that way. My current breaker is a Mezz Power Break Pro with a DI Pro shaft. This shaft has a much stiffer taper and I actually like it a lot better.
 
gunzby said:
My previous breakers all had pro style tapers on em and I liked it that way. My current breaker is a Mezz Power Break Pro with a DI Pro shaft. This shaft has a much stiffer taper and I actually like it a lot better.
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Thanks.

I am very curious about exactly that. I have always used a "pro" taper to break with and am thinking of trying a straighter taper break shaft. Your experience is exactly what I am looking at...the switch from one to the other.



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The way I see it, pro taper leaves room for lateral movement of the shaft while a Euro taper would act more in a compression manner allowing more energy to be transferred to the cue ball.
 
This is speculation but I think a pro tapered shaft would vibrate at a higher amplitude then a conical tapered shaft, so it's possible a pro tapered break shaft is more likely to hit the CB off the intended contact point on a hard break shot.
 
Kaiser Bob said:
This is speculation but I think a pro tapered shaft would vibrate at a higher amplitude then a conical tapered shaft, so it's possible a pro tapered break shaft is more likely to hit the CB off the intended contact point on a hard break shot.
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That's sort of what got me to thinking.

The equipment has evolved a lot since I was any kind of real player.

A couple weeks ago I was breaking 9 ball and miscued a couple of times. I still broke the rack hard but for some reason my contact point was off. Each time it left a scuff on an otherwise pristine ferrule which really pissed me off.

I took a few minutes to analyze my break stroke and of course found I was screwing up my stroke.

Anyway, my playing degraded so much with all the years off but I am not looking for equipment to fix that. Please don't think that, I am not that type. It was just the thing that got me thinking about these stiffer breaking shafts.

I always broke with my McDermott in the old days, but I do have a Jump/Break that I like and have been using and I know where I can get such a shaft for it very cheap.

I'm thinking to try it out. And it has a phenolic tip...which I have never tried either. I tend to be stuck in my ways, so it is surprising to me to be so interested in trying this out.


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Chopdoc said:
Thanks.

I am very curious about exactly that. I have always used a "pro" taper to break with and am thinking of trying a straighter taper break shaft. Your experience is exactly what I am looking at...the switch from one to the other.



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NP
It did take getting used to as I was so used to feeling the shaft flex on the BK2. Once I got used to it I liked it a lot better.
 
EightballJunkie said:
Interesting topic Doc ...here's my 2¢

A shorter 10-12" modified pro-taper that finishes at around 13.5mm seems to be a happy medium. It still has some backbone like a conical taper, but also works well with a closed bridge.
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There may be happiness in the middle.

The one I am looking at isn't as stiff as a straight taper billiard shaft...sort of more in the middle as you are saying. And I think the tip is about 13.25-13.50. Cheap too.


How is the cue building going? I am always eager to see more of your work.

I have been so busy with my new business that I haven't had a chance to catch up with you. I haven't been able to touch my leather work either. On the brighter side I am not as worried about money.

I have something for you when I get the time.

Thanks for your input in this matter.


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I think it depends if the cue is just for breaking, or a jumper too. For a breaker, the stiffer the better, pretty much as thick as you're comfortable with, with your bridge. If it's a jumper too, you have to compromise, and leave some whip, action, in the shaft. If one has room in their case, i recommend seperate cues. A break shaft, does'nt jump great, and a jump shaft, does'nt break great.
 
danutz said:
I think it depends if the cue is just for breaking, or a jumper too. For a breaker, the stiffer the better, pretty much as thick as you're comfortable with, with your bridge. If it's a jumper too, you have to compromise, and leave some whip, action, in the shaft. If one has room in their case, i recommend seperate cues. A break shaft, does'nt jump great, and a jump shaft, does'nt break great.
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I agree. I always had separate jump and break cues. I only started using a jump/break combo cue more recently.

It certainly is an exercise in compromise. But for my purposes it is just fine. If I were to go back to hard core playing I would use the separate cues for sure.

I have room in the case...but I am just curious and want to try something new...which is unusual for me. I tend to be quite stubborn and like my old equipment.

Plus I picked up an 18 year old J/B cue in as new condition for cheap. I took it out to try it and really liked it for breaking. I have not jumped with it yet. So in a way I am still into the old...but I am looking at upgrading it with a newer shaft and real break tip. Kind of exciting for me...but I am a total geek so..... :sorry:



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EightballJunkie said:
The performance can be enhanced even more with a larger diameter joint IMO. My personal break cue has the taper I described above, along with a radial pin and a .86" joint diameter. It's a solid maple butt, and everyone who has tried it comments on how controlled the vibration is. The feel is very rigid and tight.

What are you looking to get Doc?



At this point I have more time than wood, I think it's supposed to be the other way around :grin:




Glad to hear you started a new business Doc. You'll have to fill me in on the details when you have time.



Thanks for starting the topic! Seems like there's always a lot of rhetoric with regard to break tips, but specialized tapers for breaking don't seem to garner much attention.
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I am looking at a Spark Break Shaft. They are only $30.00.

Wood? LOL! I almost bought a cue to send you to convert for me! I balked in the end at the price but I should have gone for it!

The business? Yeah...I'll fill you in some time. I am doing the same thing, teaching, but on my own. My schedule is full and I have yet to advertise. :)



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Chopdoc said:
I agree. I always had separate jump and break cues. I only started using a jump/break combo cue more recently.

It certainly is an exercise in compromise. But for my purposes it is just fine. If I were to go back to hard core playing I would use the separate cues for sure.

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I hear ya, a J/B does me just fine these days as well, (unfortunately:embarrassed2:), but only if i knew then, what i know now.
 
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