Break Q questions?

LWW

MEMGO5
Silver Member
I hear people say to go with the lightest weight Q, and I have had success with this but an 18 oz is the lightest I've played with, is their any low end limit to this?

I hear get a steel joint, I hear get a wood to wood joint, I hear get a phenolic ringed joint to joint, which seems to work best for you and why?

I hear use a phenolic tip, I hear use a hard leather tip, what has worked best for you and why?

I have 2 break shafts that I use currently. Both are pro taper, 1 has a phenolic break tip/ferrule and the other a Picone white diamond. The phenolic breaks a little harder and the Picone breaks with a little more control. I've tried breaking with a Triangle and with a Talisman BK tip and didn't like either.

I can buy a new Schmelke with 8 inch break taper, Triangle tip (which I can replace), 22 layer laminated low deflection shaft, phenolic ringed or steel or brass joint, 16 oz for $136 brand new in plain black listed here:

http://www.schmelkecue.com/product_...d=149&osCsid=6230636719d0e7b8ebfcd4c52de579bc

which seems like an awesome deal.

I've never tried a Schmelke however I have heard good things about them.

I would order a Predator BK but I just hate the big cat. I don't mind spending the mpney I just want to make the right choice the 1st time.

Any and all thoughts are appreciated in advance.

BTW if I haven't said it before I would like to thank the forum for the great advice I have been able to receive here.

LWW
 
Your signature is a false statement. IMO there are more. Many more. Like an infinite number.
 
I only quoted Albert, and besides infinity is more than 6,000,000 anyway! :p

LWW
 
I would say that the weight of a break cue has a lot to do with the person using in more than just getting the lightest. I'm a pretty big bloke (6'4" and about 280) and a 18oz breaking cue is just to light for me. My BK is about 20oz and it makes a big difference to me.
 
Personally I like Breaking with 10.6-17.0 Ounces. Seem to work bets for Me. playing Q's are 19.0-19.25 Ounces.... :D
 
A range ...

of weights for break cues should be able to be
figured out mathematically considering the
weight and amount of object balls (a rack).

At some point on each end, I would think it would
be detremental to your breaking.

I mean, think about trying to break a rack of
ping pong balls with a straw, no matter how
fast you were. Total force is determined by
just more than speed of break.
 
Why don't you find something that works and stick with it.


I wish I could follow my own advice.

FWIW I'm not a good player, but I have a pretty good break for whatever reason. Some decent players have commented on it. One thing I noticed is that I can't tell a huge difference. I've broke them with a 22 oz house cue, a light break cue, wood joint cues with various shafts (carom type wood joints not flat face wood to wood) flat face wood to wood, stainless steel, brass, elk master, le pro, triangle, talisman and phenolic. And the more I do it the more likely I am to break with my playing cue. You want to hit the break hard, but good. What do you hit the most shots with? Your playing cue. If you don't hit them good with your playing cue, get another cue. If your technique is so extreme or flawed that you will damage the cue, use a break cue or maybe think about a technique that won't damage your cue. if your cue (not tip) can't stand up to breaking with a non-destructive technique you need a different playing cue.

I have been experimenting with weight. I am now leaning back toward the heavier end. Why? Because I don't think the extra weight is going to slow the cue down enough over the course of a relatively short swing that propels a ball at a relatively low speed to make a big difference in cueball velocity and therefore force applied to the rack. OTOH, extra weight may be more controllable and lead to a little better stroke, at least for me. So whichever weight gets you hitting them solid is the one to go with. With what weight can you make a stroke that hits the cueball into the head ball accurately and with control at the highest speed you can muster. To that end, a bigger diameter tip can help.

I need to get the ceebee book BTW. Given the fact I can break them decent naturally I should get some knowledge about it. Anyway, for now I may go down and screw around with putting the bigger weight bolt in a break cue I have and see how i am hitting them. But in the end, I think a lot more has to do with me than the break cue. Which is why people routinely beat me who have inferior cues to the ones I miss balls with. ;-)
 
I usta think having a heavier breaking cue was better, if you could get the same speed as you would from a lighter cue.

Which is probably true in some aspects, but at the time i also had a very inconsistent break stroke. several months later lol i bought a Players JB that had a phenolic tip on it, from a guy i know for 40$. and its a 19oz, my old Break cue was a 21oz.

After working on my breaking technique and practicing breaking from all area's behind the line, its a world of difference, when using a 19oz.

I will say that i dont think a break cue only makes a world of difference, cuz i know guys who break with thier playing cue or a cheap dufferin, or whatever, and do just as good if not better than guys with the Custom break cue's.

I can probably break better with my playing cue because i can control the CB alot better. which leaves me wondering why i ever use a break cue lol.

Dave
 
I know guy who Break with 20's and 22's. I suffer from Arthritis, and Bursitis. I find a Lighter Cue 16.5-17.0 for me is works best, as I can move that Cue pretty Fast with out CRY UNCLE at day end with PAIN...
 
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