Brunswick Sport King, setup questions...observations.

jcrack_corn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got a good deal on a Sport King a couple of months ago ($1500), in fairly good condition....the slate was popped on one side where someone tried to lift it up with it still pinned...anyway....the repair was with bondo and 100% smooth as glass.

So after initial setup and leveing of the frame, i noticed that both end slates sag towards the middle slate (all roll off is in direction of middle slate), and middle slate was dead level.....I spent a few hours getting all slates level to each other and the problem is now clear, the two long frame supports seemed to have sagged over time (2"x8" i think, not a home right now, its actually 2" i think, not 1.5 like standard lumber today)...

Anyway, that seems acceptable for a table thats probably 40-50 years old. It took 3 packs of cards to shim it dead level (used 2 "footings" on each side of slate and one in the middle of the table). so now the only place any slate touches the frame directly is on the short ends.

Any significant problem with this? Sure, it may or may not be as "solid" as it would be if all the slate skirts were in full contact with frame, but it is home use and seems as solid as before.....(just FYI...for the worst area, it took 12 cards to get right (dont worry, i "countershimmed" the adjacent slate so they all remained level and flush).

Second....Is there an easy way to make sure all the rails are square? a tape measure and 2ft steel L-square just dont seem accurate enough....
(ohh, and theres no legitimate table mechanic in my area)

Thanks!
 
jcrack_corn said:
I got a good deal on a Sport King a couple of months ago ($1500), in fairly good condition....the slate was popped on one side where someone tried to lift it up with it still pinned...anyway....the repair was with bondo and 100% smooth as glass.

So after initial setup and leveing of the frame, i noticed that both end slates sag towards the middle slate (all roll off is in direction of middle slate), and middle slate was dead level.....I spent a few hours getting all slates level to each other and the problem is now clear, the two long frame supports seemed to have sagged over time (2"x8" i think, not a home right now, its actually 2" i think, not 1.5 like standard lumber today)...

Anyway, that seems acceptable for a table thats probably 40-50 years old. It took 3 packs of cards to shim it dead level (used 2 "footings" on each side of slate and one in the middle of the table). so now the only place any slate touches the frame directly is on the short ends.

Any significant problem with this? Sure, it may or may not be as "solid" as it would be if all the slate skirts were in full contact with frame, but it is home use and seems as solid as before.....(just FYI...for the worst area, it took 12 cards to get right (dont worry, i "countershimmed" the adjacent slate so they all remained level and flush).

Second....Is there an easy way to make sure all the rails are square? a tape measure and 2ft steel L-square just dont seem accurate enough....
(ohh, and theres no legitimate table mechanic in my area)

Thanks!
I bought one of those used once and went through the same thing. The cards should work fine, I didn't have any trouble with mine after it was finally set up. Great playing table. I've seen a bunch of these, all had painted side and end skirts and no ball return. Is that how yours is?

I don't know any tricks for lining up the rails, but they will all stay bolted together and can be moved all at once, once you get them square with each other, so you can center them on the pockets.

unkownpro
 
The original side and endskirts were replaced at some point with very nice oak tounge and groove by one of the owners.....so it looks very much like a GCI (and of course in case you didnt know, these have the same rail rubber/pockets/slate as a GC. Original rubber on all the rails and it play great, word the street is that the rubber from 50/60/70s table will outlast "new" rubber bought today....we will see, lol.
 
jcrack_corn said:
the slate was popped on one side where someone tried to lift it up with it still pinned...anyway....the repair was with bondo and 100% smooth as glass.

Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm curious to learn about this stuff... Can you describe what the term "popped" means? Does that mean that one of the pins broke off?
 
no, thats actually the problem, the epoxy holding the pins in is stronger than the slate.....some idiot tried to pick up the slate (not knowing there were pins) without sliding it out, so the pins broke the OTHER piece of slate with the dowel holes (so i have 4 or 5, forgot how many pins, "flakey" chips in the slate (each a few inches x a few inches x about 1/4" deep).

After bondo it truly is completely unnoticeable........

Cuebacca said:
Sorry for my ignorance, but I'm curious to learn about this stuff... Can you describe what the term "popped" means? Does that mean that one of the pins broke off?
 
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