Calling all electricians....

[BarenbruggeCues]

My lathe needs a new switch. Got one but I couldn't get an exact replacement so trying to figure out the wiring. Any insight greatly appreciated.
This is the new switch...rated to cover my motor and sez it can be wired to work on 115 or 230.
Pictures of the new switch.....

Forward position ^^^

Reverse position ^^^

I kind of understand the concept of how it needs to be wired but don't know which wires go to which terminals to get both F and R to work. I've searched youtube and the internet with no success on getting a clear picture of what needs to be done.

The motor has 4 wires red, blue, orange and yellow plus the neutral and the hot from the wall. I assume the wires from the motor are connected to the nema terminal numbers on the motor for the correct color code but without pulling the motor out of the lathe (which I really don't want to unless absolutely necessary) I don't know for 100% positive.
I can't get to the terminal plate without pulling the motor out of the lathe.
I was able to get it to run in forward but not reverse. It had a terrible sounding hum when it got switched to reverse so I obviously don't know what I'm doing.
The motor is 115/230 but was previously running in the 115 mode. Like to keep it that way for now.
Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[Dave38]

Model number of the new switch is needed. Is it a Dayton? I did mine a few years ago, it does get confusing.
DAve

 

[claymont]

See if this will help:

how a single phase capacitor start motor is wired for reverse rotation using a drum switch

My lathe needs a new switch. Got one but I couldn't get an exact replacement so trying to figure out the wiring. Any insight greatly appreciated.
This is the new switch...rated to cover my motor and sez it can be wired to work on 115 or 230.
Pictures of the new switch.....

Forward position ^^^

Reverse position ^^^

I kind of understand the concept of how it needs to be wired but don't know which wires go to which terminals to get both F and R to work. I've searched youtube and the internet with no success on getting a clear picture of what needs to be done.

The motor has 4 wires red, blue, orange and yellow plus the neutral and the hot from the wall. I assume the wires from the motor are connected to the nema terminal numbers on the motor for the correct color code but without pulling the motor out of the lathe (which I really don't want to unless absolutely necessary) I don't know for 100% positive.
I can't get to the terminal plate without pulling the motor out of the lathe.
I was able to get it to run in forward but not reverse. It had a terrible sounding hum when it got switched to reverse so I obviously don't know what I'm doing.
The motor is 115/230 but was previously running in the 115 mode. Like to keep it that way for now.
Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Model number of the new switch is needed. Is it a Dayton? I did mine a few years ago, it does get confusing.
DAve

B004VBTPDW
Relay and control Corp.

Got it off amazon

Thanks for the link Claymont. I must have watched over a dozen different ones on the internet and remember starting to watch this one but the narrative was so boring I didn't finish watching. I actually made it all the way through the link this morning and as boring as he is in his mono tone voice, he made the most sense. I'll roll up the sleeves again and give his info a try. As I mentioned, I hope the terminal connections are tapped to the correct color codes. If it doesn't work, I'll just bite the bullet and pull the motor out of the lathe (PIMA) to double check the connections.
Thanks for your guys help.

 

[cueassembler]

Calling electricians

The switch appears to be a Dayton 2X440.
If you know how the old switch was wired, then your best bet is to determine which were connected in the forward and reverse positions. Then refer to a Dayton switch diagram to get the same fwd/rev connections. Search for "dayton 2x440 drum switch diagram". You won't be able to go by the wire colors, need to go by how the switch functions.
If you are like me and didn't record how the old switch was wired, then it gets more complicated.
Good news is you only have to change one or two connections.
Len Mitchell

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

The switch appears to be a Dayton 2X440.
If you know how the old switch was wired, then your best bet is to determine which were connected in the forward and reverse positions. Then refer to a Dayton switch diagram to get the same fwd/rev connections. Search for "dayton 2x440 drum switch diagram". You won't be able to go by the wire colors, need to go by how the switch functions.
If you are like me and didn't record how the old switch was wired, then it gets more complicated.
Good news is you only have to change one or two connections.
Len Mitchell

Thanks Len
That's what got me in trouble in the first place was trying to just mimic the old switch.
The original switch was a different config and could be wired single phase or 3 phase so there was a jumper involved to close some of the loops.
This switch doesn't need the jumper.
I'm just hoping the wire colors and the terminal numbers are correct off the motor. If they are I should be good to go today. If not, then I have to pull the motor and check them in the terminal box on the motor. :frown:

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Mid afternoon update.....

Well let the curve balls continue......
OK...I was able to get it hooked up to run in forward but not reverse. It's not getting the power needed to run reverse mode. No more humming, just nothing.

I was able to get my head in where the motor is in the cabinet and feel around to get the cover off the terminal connections. Using a mirror and a flashlight, this is what I found.....
The wires have brass crimp labels indicating what terminals they are and this is how they have been wired from what I assume has been the beginning of its lathe life in 1971.
T3 and T4 are Blue
C1 is Yellow
T2 and T1 are Orange
C2 is Red
That's it....that's all the wires coming off the motor.
The motor is a Doerr 3/4 hp..1725 rpm... model 60736-E VD

Under the cover of the terminal plate is a label and this is what it says...
for CW rotation
T4 T3 C1 go to one line of the power
T2 T1 C2 go to the other line of power
Has a notation that if you want to change direction to CCW flip flop C1 and C2

Here's where the confusion continues.....
Everything I've watched, every diagram I've looked at on the internet or drawings that have been sent to me NOT A ONE has ever mentioned a C1 or C2 terminal that I recall.
In order to change direction the diagrams I've seen have indicated to flip T5 and T8 which should be a red and blue wire.

So just a guess....on this motor the C1 and C2 wires are replacing the T5 and T8 terminals to change rotation. I believe these two need to go on pole 3 and 4 (the 2 center poles) on the switch?
That's as far as I get......the other wires are still a mystery to what poles they should go to in the switch and where the hot and neutral come into the mix.


handle
X
1-o 2-o

3-o 4-o

5-o 6-o

Somehow the wires need to form 2 Ls in the switch.....
For one direction....poles 1 2 3 form one L and 4 5 6 form the other L
For the other direction......1 2 4 form one L and 3 5 6 form the other
Each L is one side of the circuit to form the 120 volts to make this thing spin.
Am I getting close or is my non electrical brain not functioning properly.....

Any thoughts appreciated............

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Sometimes.......

just talking out loud to yourself is the best way to figure things out.
After typing my afternoon response it was back in the shop and try a few things out.
I would have saved myself a lot of headache and inventing new bad words had I looked in the motor terminal plate first.
The discovery of C1 and C2 terminals and the wire diagram under the terminal plate pretty much explained it all.
Appreciate all the pms and emails helping.