Can anyone answer this Question!

This one is a G10 radial.Maybe there's no fixing anything,maybe thats just the way they are?

Is there a cue guy close to you that can look at it and make a decision as to what is going on.the two faces have to mate,there is no second option.

bill
 
Is there a cue guy close to you that can look at it and make a decision as to what is going on.the two faces have to mate,there is no second option.

bill
I think I'm going to chalk this up to weirdness cause the shaft isn't bottoming out and both faces are dead on.Who knows?Oh well,its a
unsolved mystery:wink:
 
Wrong!!!
Both carry torsion properties.


bill

Either you did not read my post or you do not understand that although they both have "torsion properties" they have very different torsional properties. Steel is a bit more difficult to twist than epoxy.

Twisting a 3/8"x4" steel pin with no more leverage than a cue shaft offers is a pretty tough job. You'd likely strip the threads out before any noticeable / unwinding twist would occur.
 
Excuse me for jumping in. Bolting is within my professional interest. This question forced me to do some quick/basic research. Whenever stumped I refer to the my bolting Bible "An Intro to Design and Behavior of Bolted Joints" John Bickford Yes I own the book and I'm a torque nerd.

The basic question is why is the energy I produce in screwing my cue together lost. The simple answer is something moved after the energy was produced. Ok so why is G10 a problem vs say Stainless? It appears that G10 is much more flexible. In other words it can twist it easier.

If the fit is very tight going into the wood we could be slightly twisting the G10 pin and shortly there after the pin recovers from the twist and we loose the clamp load initially given. I think if the the pin is bottoming out in the hole it could make twisting worse. So the short hole condition isn't pushing the pin out but possibly contributing to the twisting problem. The abrasiveness of G10 could be giving us enough frictional force to hold the male and female part in place and while the pin recoils back to home, thus the joint loosens at the facings. In other words the shaft moves rather than the pin slipping inside the female hole.

If this wild guess has any validity my suggestion is to slightly open up the tollerance between male and female threads. I understand the abrasiveness of G10 is a problem so treating the shaft maybe required for thread life. Sorry there's always trade offs.
 
After reading this thread yesterday, I checked a dozen or so of my cues since I am using a 3/8-10, .308 minor. My fit is snug but I never experienced any loosening like described.

Along with what 3kushn just explained, there may be a difference between a tight fit and a snug fit. I feel that if you are torquing enough to flex the pin, the fit may be too tight. Make sure that your tap and pin are matched. Not all 3/8-10 taps are created equally.
 
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