I bumped my Predator Triton on my home table and took a small chip out of the forearm right above the grip. I have the chip that was knocked out and was thinking of super glueing it back in place, doing a light, high grade sand, then coating with some fishing rod finish. But I would much rather have a professional do the repair and do it correctly. I e-mailed Predator Cues, but they do not do any refinishing on their products for various reasons. Any help out there?
Can anyone repair this??
- Thread starter yankee817299
- Start date
SeniorTom
Well-known member
If you did yourself, like you mentioned, you would probably still notice some imperfection. I am real sensitive to marks like this, so I feel your pain. If you want it done right, you probably should let a professional do it. Also, I have a nice Pechauer cue I paid good money for, brand new, and don't take it out at all because I don't want it to get these kind of marks on it. I wonder why I bought it ?
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xX-Wizard-Xx
Well-known member
i would ask predator about it first ...
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Maybe read the complete post.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Personally, I wouldn't touch that. Your method would work, you won't need any finish over the replaced chip, just buff the area.
That cue retails for $1100. This is a prime, unfortunate example of what cues are going to become if buyers keep supporting companies like predator.
The reason predator has no refinishing is because it costs too much and they don't care.
How would predator refinish this? They wouldn't replace the chip. They would have to replace the entire finish and fancy sticker on the cue. That would cost them waaaaay more than cutting the cue up into small pieces and giving you a new cue. They already have a price for that, it is $1100.
Traditional cue construction allows for refinishing in a way that gelcoat over stickers and sparkles does not.
similar thing happened to my re released bk2. had a small chip at the shaft joint. talked to predator, their garbage made in china has a proprietary paint from a factory over there and predator cant use it or have any repair shops use it.
Your exactly right about Predator Cues. The reason that they can't refinish this is because they don't keep any of the decals from their past designs.
Looking at this makes me wonder
How many layers of paint or whatever is there.
You can ask someone to repair it but don't expect any guarentee on how long it might last.
Especially that close to the wrap area.
It wouldn't be fair.
Better off trying it yourself.
Better off just adding a collar to it.
Extreme care should be given especially close to colored areas.
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I have seen other cue makers say yes to refinishing these cues, only to find that points and logo is painted on.. The fact that Predator don't refinish their own products should be a clue. I would go to a store that sells automotive paint, get a small can of black and a fine line paint retouch pen and just drip a few drops of black paint in where you have the chip, it won't look original, but it will look damn close. Next time buy a cue with actual points, preferably from a cuemaker 
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These were wake up calls.I have seen other cue makers say yes to refinishing these cues, only to find that points and logo is painted on.. The fact that Predator don't refinish their own products should be a clue. I would go to a store that sells automotive paint, get a small can of black and a fine line paint retouch pen and just drip s few drops of black paint in where you have the chip, it won't look original, but it will look damn close. Next time buy a cue with actual points, preferably from a cuemaker
You just never know today.
The black and white cue, literally got run over.
The full splice got chipped so bad that sanding all of it was the only option.
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snookered_again
Well-known member
so here is my suggestion.
- clean it well so stuff can stick, I'd use alcohol in the area.
- use masking tape and mask off everything in the area except the chip.
- mix 2 part epoxy and black pigment powder, You can get it from a wood finishing place.
-put a drop or so , of epoxy mixed with the black pigment. you dont need very much to fill the chip and you dont want a big mess of the stuff, just a drop will do.
- tape a piece of mylar over the repaired area. Just cut a scrap about an inch by 2 inches or so and tape it around the cue covering the damaged spot.
leave it over night and you can remove the mylar and masking tape. the repaired area will be just a teeny bit high, only by the thickness of the masking tape.. let it cure a few days to harden up.
the mylar will keep the surface smooth level and make it shiny. it wont stick to epoxy.
you can mask the area again and finish up with very fine wet or dry paper and a rubber block to level it and polish it, maybe try 320 , 400 , 600 etc then finer or use polish. or 800, 1200 id wet the paper with oil or water so it cuts better.
Its a very small repair area, do not let your repair get larger than needed. get a good light and reading glasses,careful when placing the tape so as not to expand the repair area at all. The adjacent area does not need a repair so keep the area as small as you can. protect it from sandpaper etc.
- clean it well so stuff can stick, I'd use alcohol in the area.
- use masking tape and mask off everything in the area except the chip.
- mix 2 part epoxy and black pigment powder, You can get it from a wood finishing place.
-put a drop or so , of epoxy mixed with the black pigment. you dont need very much to fill the chip and you dont want a big mess of the stuff, just a drop will do.
- tape a piece of mylar over the repaired area. Just cut a scrap about an inch by 2 inches or so and tape it around the cue covering the damaged spot.
leave it over night and you can remove the mylar and masking tape. the repaired area will be just a teeny bit high, only by the thickness of the masking tape.. let it cure a few days to harden up.
the mylar will keep the surface smooth level and make it shiny. it wont stick to epoxy.
you can mask the area again and finish up with very fine wet or dry paper and a rubber block to level it and polish it, maybe try 320 , 400 , 600 etc then finer or use polish. or 800, 1200 id wet the paper with oil or water so it cuts better.
Its a very small repair area, do not let your repair get larger than needed. get a good light and reading glasses,careful when placing the tape so as not to expand the repair area at all. The adjacent area does not need a repair so keep the area as small as you can. protect it from sandpaper etc.
I put the chip over the hole and put a piece of scotch tape on the end. I can very easily lift the untaped end and put a drop of super glue underneath the repair. My question is the "halo" going around the chip appears to be part of the clear finish that came off with the chipped piece. Is this going to be hard to sand off, and once it is off could I put a small amount of clear coat around the outer edge of the chip then sand/buff to a shine?
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Thanks everyone for your input. I trying to gather as many ideas as I can before I jump into this one. Some ideas that I have: Gloss black gel coat from the boating world.
Squaring up the damaged area and cutting a piece of electrical tape to fit, then clear coating the area.
Glueing the chip back in, sanding, clear coating then buffing to a gloss.
Squaring up the damaged area and cutting a piece of electrical tape to fit, then clear coating the area.
Glueing the chip back in, sanding, clear coating then buffing to a gloss.
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Among other reasons, it wouldn’t surprise me if the finish isn’t legal to use state side but there I go ASSuming again!
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
Keep chipping away. Might find a nice Budweiser cue under there.
Coffeyscueservice
New member
I know I'm new at this but I would clean the area and try to fill it in with black super glue using activator
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
That may be what they tell you. Printing a new sticker is a four minute job and they have the files. The problem is that it'd be all screwed when they try to put the sticker on. Again, the labor to properly repair costs then more than the cue costs them.
The long and short of it is you are going to have a repair that you will probably always be able to see if you look hard enough.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I don't like using activator in finishes, might work, just makes me nervous. I'd go with black epoxy if it were mine.