Capped or un-capped ferrule and why....?

Sheldon said:
The cue I've been using for over a year now does not have any ferrule at all.
(Bob Jewett style) <G> Just a fiber pad on the end of the shaft. I break with it as well.
Doesn't Bob Jewett have a patent on that one? ;)

Tracy
 
osage orange (bois d'arc) might make a good ferrule/tenon combination,,,sure is hard wood............
 
Jack Flanagan said:
osage orange (bois d'arc) might make a good ferrule/tenon combination,,,sure is hard wood............
Maybe locust, very hard stuff. I have seen it cut with a chainsaw, sparks fly.

Tracy
 
Cue Crazy said:
Sheldon, I'm curious, Have you ever used this method with any species of wood as your ferrule material? And do you know of any good methods of impregnating wood with an epoxy or such for simular high impact uses? Greg

When I read your post I went out to the shop and dug this up. I made it years ago for something I was doing. It is a small vacuum chamber to impregnate wood with resin. It is very simple, just a vacuum pump and a mason jar. You put in the resin and the piece of wood and pull a vacuum. It works good as soon as you pull the vacuum the wood begins to foam up as the air is removed and replaced by the resin. It is the same principal but used on a larger scale by the companies that sell stabilized wood. This though just as I have it would work fine for ferrules, joints or to stabilize some woods for inlay. A larger tank could be built using a proper vacuum pump, not the kind I used. I also added a shut off valve so the vacuum could be maintained. The pumps seem to leak down in a short time. Cue makers may find something like this useful for stabilizing woods in house and not depending on other people or trying to buy something that can be hard to find. Have fun. By the way, how do you make a picture appear in the post?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid161/p31861abe9c40b8a4ae5d71468b7a29b4/f4c0ae5d.jpg
 
Last edited:
macguy said:

Like this :D

f4c0ae5d.jpg


:p

Ok, look for the button to the left of the "Create List" button, and to the right of the "Insert Hyperlink" button.
Click it, and paste the link in there and you are set.
 
macguy said:
When I read your post I went out to the shop and dug this up. I made it years ago for something I was doing. It is a small vacuum chamber to impregnate wood with resin. It is very simple, just a vacuum pump and a mason jar. You put in the resin and the piece of wood and pull a vacuum. It works good as soon as you pull the vacuum the wood begins to foam up as the air is removed and replaced by the resin. It is the same principal but used on a larger scale by the companies that sell stabilized wood. This though just as I have it would work fine for ferrules, joints or to stabilize some woods for inlay. A larger tank could be built using a proper vacuum pump, not the kind I used. I also added a shut off valve so the vacuum could be maintained. The pumps seem to leak down in a short time. Cue makers may find something like this useful for stabilizing woods in house and not depending on other people or trying to buy something that can be hard to find. Have fun. By the way, how do you make a picture appear in the post?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid161/p31861abe9c40b8a4ae5d71468b7a29b4/f4c0ae5d.jpg


Yep, That's It. Thank you very much for the picture. I could barely remember seeing something simular that was used for something else, and thought It might be good for this as well. I would like to use it for some types of inlay material also, as you mentioned. I try to get most of My wood stablized and 6% when I can, but I have plenty of anchorseal, nelsonite and time for when I don't, so don't really need anything too large. That pump sure does resemble a keg tap to me :D

I have a electric vac pump that someone gave me, but need some kind of reverse popup pressure valve for it, and have no idea where to get such a thing. thought about trying to make a vac press for laminating veneers and such also. Need to look into some bags for that. Saw some you could buy by theirself somewhere.

Looks like a nice little compact unit, probably be perfect for what I had in mind for joint parts. Thanks Again, Greg


On the pictures, I just use the manage attatchments to load, and if there is only one picture, it will usually show in the thread automatically.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
You can measure as close as you want to but if the ferrule seats properly against the shaft's shoulder then the end of the tenon must clear the ferrule's cap. Your calipers just leave a smaller void.
If you leave about a 0.010 to 0.015 void between the tenon and the ferrule, the glue fills the rest. This practice is not too difficult.
 
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