Checklist for High Runs

[BeiberLvr]

My high run is only 36, but I'm constantly trying to get better at this game. I thought by making a checklist of some important things might help me as well as others who are trying to learn the game. I'll put down a few things that I think are important (feel free to let me know if they're not). Maybe others can do the same, and I'll update the OP as we go along.

These are numbered, but not in order of importance.

1. Once every ball has a pocket, try to avoid running into any of them unless absolutely necessary, i.e. to manufacture a break ball.

2. Don't take difficult shots unless shape on the next ball is easy to get.

3. Don't travel a long distance for position when short distance will suffice.

4. When not using a rail to play shape, try to stick with stop/stun shots.

5. Get rid of balls close to pockets early on to a clear a path for other balls.

6. Pocket balls on the rail early on (pattern dependent).

 

[measureman]

Let me add one
Get the balls on the rails off early-they are the hardest ones to play position from.

 

[TSW]

3. Avoid using multiple rails to play shape unless it's the only option.

I don't agree with this as a rule. Sometimes multi-rail position is the right play. I'd rephrase as: "don't travel a long distance for position when a short distance will suffice."

4. When not using a rail to play shape, try to stick with stop/stun shots.

Not sure I understand this - are you saying to not use follow/draw? What's the goal here?

 

[BeiberLvr]

I don't agree with this as a rule. Sometimes multi-rail position is the right play. I'd rephrase as: "don't travel a long distance for position when a short distance will suffice."



Not sure I understand this - are you saying to not use follow/draw? What's the goal here?

Your wording makes more sense, I'll rephrase.

I didn't mean to imply you should never use follow or draw. I was always under the impression that minimum CB movement is key in 14.1 Stop/Stun shots accomplish that. Let me know if you think there's a better way I could have worded that one.

 

[TSW]

Let me add one
Get the balls on the rails off early-they are the hardest ones to play position from.

On the other hand, a well-placed ball on the rail can make a pattern easier. It's easier to get straight-in position on a ball on the rail, which can be helpful on certain patterns.

 

[Gerry]

All good thoughts so far guys!

I try to keep things simple when running balls. Here's what I think about.

>Get to work on the problems NOW!.....meaning, clearing pocket lanes, rail balls, clusters, break ball, end rack etc.

>Keep an insurance ball when going into balls.....my biggest run killer!

>Identify the break ball sequence ASAP.....more then 1 is better.

>Try to play position on more then one ball at a time......options are good

These are in no particular order.....

have fun

G.

 

[krupa]

As TSW has indirectly pointed out, you should probably end with:

Know when (and be willing) to ignore all the previous items.

 

[TSW]

As TSW has indirectly pointed out, you should probably end with:

Know when (and be willing) to ignore all the previous items.

Haha, yes. The great thing about 14.1 is that there's always another pattern.

 

[RobMan]

How about George Fels W.P.'s

Took these from an old thread - http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=166805&page=3


Mastering Pool - great 14.1 section esp for new players to the game!

1. Whenever possible you don’t hit the cue ball hard when you can accomplish the same objectives hitting it soft.
2. Whenever possible don’t apply English to the cue ball when you can accomplish the same thing hitting center ball.
3. Whenever possible you don’t move a second object ball that is already pocketable, after sinking the one you called.
4. Whenever possible you don’t choose cue ball routes that require your driving or forcing the cue ball, as opposed to rolling it, some place.
5. Whenever possible you don’t drive the cue ball to a rail when you can get it to an advantageous place without using a rail.
6. Whenever possible you don’t employ two-rail routes when one-rail routes will get the job done.
7. Whenever possible you don’t employ three-rail routes when two-rail routes (or, sometimes, one-rail) routes will do.
8. Whenever possible you provide yourself with a second shot that you can count on as part of all your mid-rack break shots.
9. Whenever possible we position ourselves to shoot balls on or near the rails early in our sequence.

 

[TommyLee]

2 holds true if you can leave yourself the proper angle or tangent line to just bounce around for a while

 

[gerard soriano]

#6 IMO balls on the rail are the same as any other unless they block another ball.

 

[TSW]

5. Whenever possible you don’t drive the cue ball to a rail when you can get it to an advantageous place without using a rail.
6. Whenever possible you don’t employ two-rail routes when one-rail routes will get the job done.
7. Whenever possible you don’t employ three-rail routes when two-rail routes (or, sometimes, one-rail) routes will do.

I don't agree with these. Maybe it's due to my background as a rotation player. The right position route is the one that gives you the biggest position zone. Sometimes that involves more rails rather than fewer.

In straight pool you are usually moving the cue ball a short distance and playing for a small position zone. That weighs in favor of using fewer rails. But that's not the same thing as saying that fewer rails is a virtue in and of itself.

This may be a nitpicky point, but I don't want a beginner to think that the "proper" way to play is to minimize the use of rails.

 

[sfleinen]

I don't agree with these. Maybe it's due to my background as a rotation player. The right position route is the one that gives you the biggest position zone. Sometimes that involves more rails rather than fewer.

In straight pool you are usually moving the cue ball a short distance and playing for a small position zone. That weighs in favor of using fewer rails. But that's not the same thing as saying that fewer rails is a virtue in and of itself.

This may be a nitpicky point, but I don't want a beginner to think that the "proper" way to play is to minimize the use of rails.

I think the issue here is that we have some old-schoolers among us, who played during the era of horse-blanket cloth and unreliable rubber in the cushions. In these days, if you drive the cue ball to the rail, you better do it firmly, otherwise it'd happened where the cue ball "settled" against the rail with a soft hit. And now you're in trouble if the next object ball you were trying to get position on is *also* against the rail!

So I agree with you that with today's equipment (i.e. worsted cloth and quality rubber in the cushions), you can "safely" use the rails to get position -- where the balls go after contact with a cushion is very predictable. While your rotation background DOES come in to play here (using multi-rail position is a key technique in rotation games to get position on targeted/specific object balls), I don't think that's the reason why you're seeing the "avoidance" for using the cushions.

There are plenty of circumstances where an e.g. "two rails and out" for position on the break ball is used, especially when the key ball is BEHIND the break ball. Some purists will shake their finger at you and shame you for being in the position where you have to use a multi-rail bounce of the cue ball to get position on the break ball, but sometimes you have no choice due to the lay of the balls.

-Sean

 

[RobMan]

I don't agree with these. Maybe it's due to my background as a rotation player. The right position route is the one that gives you the biggest position zone. Sometimes that involves more rails rather than fewer.

In straight pool you are usually moving the cue ball a short distance and playing for a small position zone. That weighs in favor of using fewer rails. But that's not the same thing as saying that fewer rails is a virtue in and of itself.

This may be a nitpicky point, but I don't want a beginner to think that the "proper" way to play is to minimize the use of rails.

I agree with ya! I am primarily a rotation player (heck I can't run fifty in 14.1 or haven't yet!).

Better coming into a line with two rails than crossing it with one.

And I think Sean's comment about the cloth and rails is spot on.

 

[TSW]

I think the issue here is that we have some old-schoolers among us, who played during the era of horse-blanket cloth and unreliable rubber in the cushions. In these days, if you drive the cue ball to the rail, you better do it firmly, otherwise it'd happened where the cue ball "settled" against the rail with a soft hit. And now you're in trouble if the next object ball you were trying to get position on is *also* against the rail!

So I agree with you that with today's equipment (i.e. worsted cloth and quality rubber in the cushions), you can "safely" use the rails to get position -- where the balls go after contact with a cushion is very predictable. While your rotation background DOES come in to play here (using multi-rail position is a key technique in rotation games to get position on targeted/specific object balls), I don't think that's the reason why you're seeing the "avoidance" for using the cushions.

There are plenty of circumstances where an e.g. "two rails and out" for position on the break ball is used, especially when the key ball is BEHIND the break ball. Some purists will shake their finger at you and shame you for being in the position where you have to use a multi-rail bounce of the cue ball to get position on the break ball, but sometimes you have no choice due to the lay of the balls.

-Sean

Excellent points. Thanks Sean. I see the benefit from an old schooler's perspective.

That's the great thing about pool: there are never any absolutes!

- Geoff

 

[TommyLee]

Excellent points. Thanks Sean. I see the benefit from an old schooler's perspective.

That's the great thing about pool: there are never any absolutes!

- Geoff

So not true, I'm absolutely the worst 14.1 player on the board!

 

[Drawback]

I've run 59 balls once and many times 50, even 55 a couple of times, but I tire easily and lose that all-important concentration.

I find that using CJ's TOI has helped me pocket balls more quickly and with being less fatigued and therefore I'm looking forward to breaking my record one of these old days.:smile: