clean shaft and ferrule

That is great if you have access to a lathe.

pooldogue said:
Silly me, all this time ive been letting Mike Webb clean my pool cue shaft for me !!!!!!!!!! What im trying to say is i just have them cleaned professionally, that way there are no problems that usually cost more money in the long run......................

Not everyone does though - and slip-stic works great for those that don't.
The first time I used slip-stic, I took it to Jim Buss (Pres of the cuemakers assoc). He was afraid to try it in his shop for fear it had some silicone in it. He checked it out first and was satisfied. Naturally anything done to any cue is best done on a lathe. Maybe you might want to have Mike Webb try some on your cue.

TY & GL, OHB
 
OldHasBeen said:
Not everyone does though - and slip-stic works great for those that don't.
The first time I used slip-stic, I took it to Jim Buss (Pres of the cuemakers assoc). He was afraid to try it in his shop for fear it had some silicone in it. He checked it out first and was satisfied. Naturally anything done to any cue is best done on a lathe. Maybe you might want to have Mike Webb try some on your cue.

TY & GL, OHB

Mike was actually one of the first people to showcase this product here i beleive.........
 
Even if you use no water what-so-ever with Comet or other dry cleaners, they still pick it up moisture from your cue shaft, your hands and the air. It otherwise would not work, that is unless you are talking about abrasives, and they wear down the shaft. Cleaners that seem to be harmless at first actually get trapped in the wood and will weaken it.

If you used such a thing, no matter what brand including Magic Eraser, immediately clean with a solvent (not alcohol and not ammonia based products). Note : Mr. Clean Magic Erase is NOT recommended for bare wood, by the manufacturer.

Solvents will help wash away any chemicals left behind. On the other hand if you replace your cue shaft once a year or so, then it really does not matter. Remember it is the oils from your hands that strengthens the cue shaft, why remove them. After all a darken pool shaft from hand oils makes it look like a player owns the equipment.

Also, alcohol should not be used on cue shafts; It dries out the wood (tiny splintering) while sucking out the oils that protect the wood.

As posted here, lighter fluid is a good solvent though it is somewhat gritty (dirty) but it does work very well.
 
Has anyone else noticed how similar "Q-Clean" is to "Ajax", or "Comet"?
68 cents for Ajax in a 14oz can vs. Q-clean at $13.95 for an oz... Hmmmm...
I have switched from Q-clean to Slipstic products for my shafts.
 
How about Cuetec Cleaner and Armor All

Scottster said:
Has anyone else noticed how similar "Q-Clean" is to "Ajax", or "Comet"?
68 cents for Ajax in a 14oz can vs. Q-clean at $13.95 for an oz... Hmmmm...
I have switched from Q-clean to Slipstic products for my shafts.
How about Cuetec Cleaner and Armor All. They look and smell about the same. $4.00 for about 1oz of CueTec Cleaner or $4.00 for about 12oz of Armor All.
 
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