Cleaning Shafts?

The unique shaft cleaner works pretty good, but you will never be able to get all the dirt out of your shaft.
For really dirty shafts, I use industrial style citrus hand cleaner with pumice.
I was initially worried about the acidity affecting the shaft, but I have tried it on several shafts now and nothing bad has happened.
The pumice in those products is really fine, so the abrasiveness is minimal.
The one I use is called "fast orange" you can get it in most stores selling car equipment, I have even seen it at gas stations.
Maybe a little late now, but the best thing is to get you shaft properly sealed and burnished before you start playing with it. That will make the shaft more resistant to dirt and humidity.
 
timothysoong said:
Is there anyway to clean shafts without using abrasives?

I've searched throughout the forum(so don't tell me to use the search lol)

Some say use damp cloth. Q-Wiz. Magic Eraser. 600-1500 Grit Sandpaper.

How do u actually use a magic eraser? It's an abrasive, how do u make sure the shafts cleaned evenly? Do u put on a lathe?

Tim
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I have tried a lot of stuff made for shafts. I find that isopropyl alcohol works better than any I have tried. I also burnish with a leather pad made by Porper.
 
beneath_the_sur said:
So is it bad or not to use 600 or higher grit sandpaper and just gently sand by hand to get it a bit more smooth
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It's generally bad. The best way is to clean it as good as possible. Many repairmen use denatured alcohol and Mr Clean pads, which will usually open up the grain a bit, or feel rougher than you would like. Then the shaft needs to be resealed to close the grain back up basically. At this point you can sand the shaft to whatever grit you prefer. we all have different ideas on this, but I start with 600 and work my way up to at least 2k, depending on the shaft and just how it feels. Then a good waxing and burnishing is needed to really make it slick, and cleanable.

I know I answered more than you asked, point being, if you sand the shaft with 600 or even higher you are removing the protection that the builder sold it with. If the shaft is getting a lot of chalk and grime in the grain then that protection is already destroyed. A properly sealed shaft will clean very easily without sanding. If you feel it's bad enough to need sanding you should probably take it to a competent repairman and have it cleaned and sealed properly. It's usually a very low cost job and it'll make your shaft look and feel much better, and for much longer.
 
So what kind of wax, what burnishing tool and how do you use it
or will the shaft smoothing pad (an expensive piece of scotch brite) be enough for cleaning after daily practice
 
beneath_the_sur said:
So what kind of wax, what burnishing tool and how do you use it
or will the shaft smoothing pad (an expensive piece of scotch brite) be enough for cleaning after daily practice
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Not to be short with you pard, but this post is really why most people should support their local cue repair guy.
 
beneath_the_sur said:
So what kind of wax, what burnishing tool and how do you use it
or will the shaft smoothing pad (an expensive piece of scotch brite) be enough for cleaning after daily practice
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Please don't use sandpaper on your shaft!
And if you absolutely have to, use 2000 grit or higher.
You can buy products designed for the taskt. It's simple to use, apply - whipe off.
You can buy shaft sealer too or you can use products like cue silk. Buy a bar of carnauba wax and put some on your shaft. Burnish with paper or leather.
 
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Ok no sandpaper
I agree with leaving it to the pros I just wanna know what I need to do after daily use before it needs to visit the local cue guy
 
Ok no sandpaper
I agree with leaving it to the pros I just wanna know what I need to do after daily use before it needs to visit the local cue guy
 
I burnish the shaft with a twenty. I know a Grant or a Ben Franklin works best but no one in the pool room will let me use theirs. Mitch
 
timothysoong said:
I've read a lot about the QClean powder. Gonna buy a bottle to try out. Hope it doesnt work like most cleaning+conditioning, I've got one of those, it doesn't actually take the blue out of the shaft but burnish the shaft and makes the shaft feel very chafed.
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There was a similar thread not long ago. I've used that Q Clean powder and have had pretty good results with it. I believe there was a post where the poster said this was just bleach powder and was bad for your shaft. Personally I've never noticed any damage that might result from the Q Clean, but maybe thats just me
 
beneath_the_sur said:
So what kind of wax, what burnishing tool and how do you use it
or will the shaft smoothing pad (an expensive piece of scotch brite) be enough for cleaning after daily practice
Click to expand...

I made a blend of Bees Wax and Caranuba wax. I was really surprised at how hard Caranuba wax really is. I'll put the shaft on the lathe and run the wax cake up and down the shaft then buff with a paper towel to a nice shine, then apply a coat of bowling ally or mothers wax, and buff, burnish with a piece of scrap leather. This turns out pretty good
 
I use Pledge. **Gasp**

I spray it onto a paper towel, wipe the shaft down, then immediately use a dry paper towel. I know some are really against it, but it works well for me.
 
FrankieD said:
I use Pledge. **Gasp**

I spray it onto a paper towel, wipe the shaft down, then immediately use a dry paper towel. I know some are really against it, but it works well for me.
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That's as old school as it gets. Works for me till this day. I do use a leather burnish to finish up. Makes sure the moisture is gone.

 
Cleaning shafts

99% alcohol and a piece of Magic Eraser
I saw that same manning cues video also and wonder , is orange Gojo good for shafts?
 
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