Clear coating shaft?

simmer1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey all, got a question.

On all or most shafts, you see a finish from the joint down about 3 to 4 inches. Why is the shaft not finshed all the way down to the ferrell? Would it hurt to put a clear coat all the way down to the ferrell? By doing so, would it make it more difficult to remove dings?

Reason I ask, is I have a Mustang Bullitt that I do not put wax on. Use a system called Zaino that puts a polymer coating on the car, after thorough cleaning of course. Used mostly for show cars. When I get done 'Zaino-ing' my car, you can lay a towel on the hood, which slants 'slightly', and it will slide the length of the hood and off onto the ground. I am considering doing this to one of my shafts just to see if it will create that kind of 'smoothness, slickness, feel' for my pool playing.

Any thoughts or suggestions on this?

Thanks,
Steve (simmer1)
 
Don't do it.

simmer1 said:
Hey all, got a question.

On all or most shafts, you see a finish from the joint down about 3 to 4 inches. Why is the shaft not finshed all the way down to the ferrell? Would it hurt to put a clear coat all the way down to the ferrell? By doing so, would it make it more difficult to remove dings?

Reason I ask, is I have a Mustang Bullitt that I do not put wax on. Use a system called Zaino that puts a polymer coating on the car, after thorough cleaning of course. Used mostly for show cars. When I get done 'Zaino-ing' my car, you can lay a towel on the hood, which slants 'slightly', and it will slide the length of the hood and off onto the ground. I am considering doing this to one of my shafts just to see if it will create that kind of 'smoothness, slickness, feel' for my pool playing.

Any thoughts or suggestions on this?

Thanks,
Steve (simmer1)


Well my first thoughts would be not to do that to your shaft, but I guess everyone else in here will let you know. I have heard the best thing to do if you want to seal the shaft to keep chalk and stuff out of the shaft is to use a light coat of sanding sealer. Then when your done doing that burnish the hell out of it. The Q-care stuff sold on seberts is basically the same thing, and it works great. I don't think I would use anything else. But that is just me. There are 100 different fixes for keeping your shafts clean and smooth.

However what your telling me about your Mustang, well that polymer your using is a wax. It is a polymer wax, and don't get me wrong there is nothing wrong with using it. If you like the way that the car looks after you use it then by all means use it. I love it when people tell me they don't use a wax. (I used to detail cars, and I used to detail cars for various car shows.) You may not use a paste wax (if that is what you consider wax.) But there are all forms of wax, like Carnuba, and polymers, and pastes, and liquids, etc.

My favorite is when someone tells me they got that paint sealant put on their car and they were told that they never have to wax their car ever!!

Well my answer is this, no one told you that you had to wax your car, but if you don't the paint is sure to show signs of fading due to the weather. So yea, you don't ever have to wax your car again, unless you want it to look good.

My company truck came from the factory with one of those paint sealants that is supposed to be good for the life of the car or whatever they claim. Well being the company truck, and I don't want to take the time to wax it by hand. I just go to the local car wash, and I use the liquid wax they have at the car wash. I always dry the truck off by hand though.

I have had a ton of people ask me how many coats of wax I have put on it cause it looks awesome everytime. I just laugh cause I haven't done anything to this truck. LOL
 
Last edited:
cueman said:
The reason the shaft is finished back there is to make the joint rings shiny like teh butt rings. The finish causes a sticky drag feel to the shaft if totally finished.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com

But 4 inches of overspray seems a little sloppy, Chris.

Two other theories I've heard:

1. the sticky finish on the shaft's last few inches makes it easier to grip when unscrewing.

2. it seals the endgrain against moisture.

A hard finish would be more difficult to repair if dinged. See the butt of a cue.
 
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