Contact point 2 contact point aiming.

[ENGLISH!]

Chalk!

I make sure my cue is chalked real well and try to keep a straight stroke. Depending upon how much your cue deflects will depend upon how far you can hit to the edge and have the ball come back online after the bit of deflection.

If I use my LD shaft, I can hit the ball VERY STRAIGHT even when using the very edge of the cue ball with my tip.

I too cue way farther out than many would consider doing. I've 'always' used soft Elk Master tips with a rather flat contour. Someone just asked me the other day why my tip was so flat. That's a whole other discussion that will 'flame'.

Just this last Wednesday I missed a couple of TOI shots by not getting enough total net squirt. (I'm in the humid New Orleans area) So I checked the amount of squirt I was getting with my OB Pro shaft & I was a bit surprised how really low it was. I even thought that I may need to go back to a regular maple if I'm going to use TOI as much I'm leaning to doing lately. I don;t really hit as firm as need be to keep out the swerve on some shots.

Just some thoughts along cueing far out & squirt. I was asking you about the alignment part.

Best 2 Ya,
Rick

 

[LAMas]

I too cue way farther out than many would consider doing. I've 'always' used soft Elk Master tips with a rather flat contour. Someone just asked me the other day why my tip was so flat. That's a whole other discussion that will 'flame'.

Just this last Wednesday I missed a couple of TOI shots by not getting enough total net squirt. (I'm in the humid New Orleans area) So I checked the amount of squirt I was getting with my OB Pro shaft & I was a bit surprised how really low it was. I even thought that I may need to go back to a regular maple if I'm going to use TOI as much I'm leaning to doing lately. I don;t really hit as firm as need be to keep out the swerve on some shots.

Just some thoughts along cueing far out & squirt. I was asking you about the alignment part.

Best 2 Ya,
Rick

Lil Al Romero a road player and now cue maker at the Hard Times advised that one should flatten the tip so that when hitting center CB, you won't hit with TOI or TOO.

He used to practice with Hawaiian Brian at the Gardena Bowl back in the day.

Be well.

 

[ENGLISH!]

Lil Al Romero a road player and now cue maker at the Hard Times advised that one should flatten the tip so that when hitting center CB, you won't hit with TOI or TOO.

He used to practice with Hawaiian Brian at the Gardena Bowl back in the day.

Be well.

Hi E,

Yes, that's a good 'tip':wink: IMO

As you may know, I am not a fan of trying to play by trying to hit the vertical axis of a 2 1/4 sphere with a 3 mm contact area of a 'standard' tip.

I had thought about what I'm going tell you now long ago but I never did it until recently. I've done it now because I'm now 61 & not the same player as when I was 21 or 31, etc. On my 'flat' tipped break shaft I've drilled a 'divot' into the center. That way, if when I'm trying to hit center with power & am off that tad bit say to the right side, the center of the tip is not there to hit the right side but the left edge just past the 'divot' is there to hit center. I've also only recently gone to a very hard tip on the break cue & have also gone to hitting center on the break more often than I've ever done. It's 'hell' getting old.

Now on my playing cue with a soft tip I have the center 'flat' & the 'edges' just rounded a bit. With the tip having an 'edge' I can be more precise with what part of the tip is going to hit where when using english. Also, I want more tip of the soft tip there to be able to compress without getting too 'hard' if that makes sense.

I think this will make sense to you & some others.

You Stay Well & Best 2 All,
Rick

 

[LAMas]

Rick,
A soft tip will compress more than a hard tip on impact, exposing more chalk/leather to the surface of the CB - more cushion for pushin.

Make's sense.
Be well.

 

[LAMas]

Hi E,

Yes, that's a good 'tip':wink: IMO

As you may know, I am not a fan of trying to play by trying to hit the vertical axis of a 2 1/4 sphere with a 3 mm contact area of a 'standard' tip.

I had thought about what I'm going tell you now long ago but I never did it until recently. I've done it now because I'm now 61 & not the same player as when I was 21 or 31, etc. On my 'flat' tipped break shaft I've drilled a 'divot' into the center. That way, if when I'm trying to hit center with power & am off that tad bit say to the right side, the center of the tip is not there to hit the right side but the left edge just past the 'divot' is there to hit center. I've also only recently gone to a very hard tip on the break cue & have also gone to hitting center on the break more often than I've ever done. It's 'hell' getting old.

Now on my playing cue with a soft tip I have the center 'flat' & the 'edges' just rounded a bit. With the tip having an 'edge' I can be more precise with what part of the tip is going to hit where when using english. Also, I want more tip of the soft tip there to be able to compress without getting too 'hard' if that makes sense.

I think this will make sense to you & some others.

You Stay Well & Best 2 All,
Rick

Rick,
Nice pun.
Put a divot on your player and TOI turns into TOO. That could get confusing.
Be well.

 

[Mikjary]

The last couple of years, I switched from a soft tip to a hard tip. I bought into the short contact time the cue tip is on the cue ball and tried to tailor my game to thinking the tip wouldn't affect the outcome of my stroke.

The more I read from the posters and soft tip results, I think I may go back to a softer tip. The hard tip change was to eliminate unwanted spin, but that usually occurs from a poor alignment and steering the cue for me.

I went to several instructors and none of them picked up on the fact my head wasn't over the cue in the right place. After a 20 year layoff, I came back to the game and had a hard time pocketing balls. None even suggested it was a problem except for Gene with his Perfect Aim. I went from running three and stop, to getting out, again.

So, the next tip is going to be a soft one and not worrying about hitting center cue ball anymore. The stroke was never the problem, it was the eyes. :wink:

Best,
Mike

 

[ENGLISH!]

Rick,
A soft tip will compress more than a hard tip on impact, exposing more chalk/leather to the surface of the CB - more cushion for pushin.

Make's sense.
Be well.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Not so loud.

 

[Mikjary]

Rick,
A soft tip will compress more than a hard tip on impact, exposing more chalk/leather to the surface of the CB - more cushion for pushin.

Make's sense.
Be well.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Not so loud.

LAMas is hijacking his own thread and starting a flame war. He probably just wants this thread to get 3,000+ views. :wink:

Best,
Mike

 

[ENGLISH!]

The last couple of years, I switched from a soft tip to a hard tip. I bought into the short contact time the cue tip is on the cue ball and tried to tailor my game to thinking the tip wouldn't affect the outcome of my stroke.

The more I read from the posters and soft tip results, I think I may go back to a softer tip. The hard tip change was to eliminate unwanted spin, but that usually occurs from a poor alignment and steering the cue for me.

I went to several instructors and none of them picked up on the fact my head wasn't over the cue in the right place. After a 20 year layoff, I came back to the game and had a hard time pocketing balls. None even suggested it was a problem except for Gene with his Perfect Aim. I went from running three and stop, to getting out, again.

So, the next tip is going to be a soft one and not worrying about hitting center cue ball anymore. The stroke was never the problem, it was the eyes. :wink:

Best,
Mike

Yes Mike,

I'm very glad that Gene PMd me to call him after one of my posts.

Knowing what I've learned from Gene, I think everyone that is serious about their game should get Perfect Aim & then make the complimentary phone call to Gene before even looking at it & before they make any other investment of time or money in anything else.

There's that popular phrase here on AZB, 'You don't know what you don't know.'.

Well...You can't see straight until you know how to see straight.

I'm glad you somehow got with Gene as I am for myself. I think everyone should, if only to confirm that all is truly right.

Best 2 You...& All,
Rick

 

[LAMas]

RIck,
You "real eyes" that your concepts are bounded in science?
You also need a "perfect view" to make them work.
How long will the Elk Master hold it's shape...like my wife?



Be well.

 

[ENGLISH!]

RIck,
You "real eyes" that your concepts are bounded in science?
You also need a "perfect view" to make them work.
How long will the Elk Master hold it's shape...like my wife?

View attachment 377236

Be well.

Thanks for that E,

The thing is that my 'concepts' came from some common sense before I had any physics education.

As to the Elk Master holding shape, they did rather well for me as I was not pounding the middle but instead almost always hitting all around the 'edges' for english.

The thing that concerned me a bit was them getting compressed or wearing out along the edges & getting a bit too 'non-soft'. When that happened it was time to replace them. But to me, they lasted long enough, I guess because my style of play was always reshaping them through 'compression'. I also would push up on the edges with my thumb when I was not shooting to try to keep the 'edges' soft

You Stay Well & Thanks Again,
Rick

 

[LAMas]

I hit the contact point on the cue ball with my tip...I don't shift to center unless I need to. Even on the picture on the far right with the 90 degree cut...my tip is on the edge of the cue ball.

Hi HawaiianEye,

I read your thread CTP2CTP Aiming (post 1) and I started this thread for those that like to use center ball hit/s on the CB.

When I need to use inside English on a shot to get shape on the next ball, I, like you just shoot the contact point (CP) on the CB to the contact point on the OB without the parallel shift to center CB.

As you said in your thread, you aim at the line from the contact point on the OB to the CP on the CB, through the CB to the tip of the cue. This sends the CB center to the outside of the CP on the OB - to where the GB should be.

If I am on the game ball and shape doesn't matter I shoot CP2CP without shifting the cue to the center of the CB...as long as I won't scratch.

This is the easiest method of aiming for you and me for we can visualize the CP on the OB and the proportional CP on the CB.

I overcut the 90 degree cut angle if I get too close to the edge of the CB probably due to the deflection of the shaft, but at least when I do hit the edge of the OB with the edge of the CB, I don't miscue.

Thanks and be well.
.