Most everyone knows the halfball bank shown here with the cb and the 1 ball. Aim center cb to the left edge of the 1 and it'll bank into bottom right corner. Now check this out....
Straight across on the 2 ball is a 3/8 aim, or simply aim through ccb to line the right side of your ferrule to the left edge of the 2. The 3 ball is a 1/4 aim and the 4 is a 1/8, which I find easier to hit by aiming for a 1/4 but using outside spin. These all work best when the ob is froze to the rail. After about an inch of or two of separation the 1/8 per half diamond adjustment gets wacky.
Here is the coolest part.... These aim points work when the cb is straight across from the ob. When the cb is not straight across from the ball, every half diamond that it's off is a 1/8 aiming difference on the ob. In this diagram if you moved the cb toward the end rail so that the centerline between the balls lands half a diamond closer to the pocket, making it a backcut bank, the shot is a 3/8 aim (1/8 thinner than a halfball).
If you line the cb up for the 3 ball bank, making it so the centerline between the balls crosses over the side pocket, it'll be a 3/4 ball hit to make the bank, since the line is 2 diamonds off from being straight across from the 3. If the cb were straight across it would be a 1/4 ball shot. But with it lined 4 half diamonds away it would be four 1/8 aim points thicker than a 1/4 ball shot. That puts it at a 3/4 ball shot. Move the cb up table a little more, making the centerline between cb and 3 ball cross over the 1st diamond above that side pocket. From here it's a dead bank with a full ball hit, because we're 2 more half diamonds away, which is two more 1/8 aim intervals thicker.
This system works very well. And the more you do it the more you begin to just recognize where to aim these types of bank shots without having to think about it. NOTE: For the 1 ball halfball shot it must be struck firm enough to push the ob into the cushion enough to allow the cb time to avoid a double kiss. Once you get that speed down, the shot can't be missed unless the cushion is bad.
Straight across on the 2 ball is a 3/8 aim, or simply aim through ccb to line the right side of your ferrule to the left edge of the 2. The 3 ball is a 1/4 aim and the 4 is a 1/8, which I find easier to hit by aiming for a 1/4 but using outside spin. These all work best when the ob is froze to the rail. After about an inch of or two of separation the 1/8 per half diamond adjustment gets wacky.
Here is the coolest part.... These aim points work when the cb is straight across from the ob. When the cb is not straight across from the ball, every half diamond that it's off is a 1/8 aiming difference on the ob. In this diagram if you moved the cb toward the end rail so that the centerline between the balls lands half a diamond closer to the pocket, making it a backcut bank, the shot is a 3/8 aim (1/8 thinner than a halfball).
If you line the cb up for the 3 ball bank, making it so the centerline between the balls crosses over the side pocket, it'll be a 3/4 ball hit to make the bank, since the line is 2 diamonds off from being straight across from the 3. If the cb were straight across it would be a 1/4 ball shot. But with it lined 4 half diamonds away it would be four 1/8 aim points thicker than a 1/4 ball shot. That puts it at a 3/4 ball shot. Move the cb up table a little more, making the centerline between cb and 3 ball cross over the 1st diamond above that side pocket. From here it's a dead bank with a full ball hit, because we're 2 more half diamonds away, which is two more 1/8 aim intervals thicker.
This system works very well. And the more you do it the more you begin to just recognize where to aim these types of bank shots without having to think about it. NOTE: For the 1 ball halfball shot it must be struck firm enough to push the ob into the cushion enough to allow the cb time to avoid a double kiss. Once you get that speed down, the shot can't be missed unless the cushion is bad.
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