Coring SP's

buddha162

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is the following doable/reasonable, or is it a ridiculous request?

Ebony into Maple SP

The ebony back cored with maple, the maple front cored with ebony. W2W piloted joint.

I want an ebony/maple SP with a forward balance, w/o using ss in the joint and weighing out around 19.5 oz at 59".

Just wanted some feedback before I piss off cuemakers with emails...it might be too late with one, lol.

-Roger
 
buddha162 said:
Is the following doable/reasonable, or is it a ridiculous request?

Ebony into Maple SP

The ebony back cored with maple, the maple front cored with ebony. W2W piloted joint.

I want an ebony/maple SP with a forward balance, w/o using ss in the joint and weighing out around 19.5 oz at 59".

Just wanted some feedback before I piss off cuemakers with emails...it might be too late with one, lol.

-Roger

If you do a 6-8" Maple core you should get what you want, without the Ebony in the front...JER
 
Is "SP" meaning full splice house cue appearance design?

My immediate thought is about the fact that an SP's hit is usually valued because of the full splice factor. They are also usually called SPs because they have the 4 point, house cue, full splice construction.

You would not (that I know of) be able to get that cored design together as described without it being a basic short splice construction, or very close to it.

So... what about the cue will make it an "SP" in your mind? Not challenging, just asking. Is it still intended to have a 4 point, low cut design? Do you want the woods cored, joined together, and THEN cut full splice style?

JWP
 
buddha162 said:
Is the following doable/reasonable, or is it a ridiculous request?

Ebony into Maple SP

The ebony back cored with maple, the maple front cored with ebony. W2W piloted joint.

I want an ebony/maple SP with a forward balance, w/o using ss in the joint and weighing out around 19.5 oz at 59".

Just wanted some feedback before I piss off cuemakers with emails...it might be too late with one, lol.

-Roger

I know Eric Crisp of Sugartree cue has done this on his sneaky conversion.
 
PetreeCues said:
Is "SP" meaning full splice house cue appearance design?

My immediate thought is about the fact that an SP's hit is usually valued because of the full splice factor. They are also usually called SPs because they have the 4 point, house cue, full splice construction.

You would not (that I know of) be able to get that cored design together as described without it being a basic short splice construction, or very close to it.

So... what about the cue will make it an "SP" in your mind? Not challenging, just asking. Is it still intended to have a 4 point, low cut design? Do you want the woods cored, joined together, and THEN cut full splice style?

JWP

I used to make my own full splice 4 point blanks, but now I buy them. When I have an Ebony/ Maple Q out of one of these, I core the bottom 6-8" of the Ebo with a Maple plug. It helps take weight out of the heaviest part & move the balance point forward. I think this is what he is asking for...JER
 
Thank you all for the advice...

Jerry, I know that plugging the back end with maple might be sufficient to move the balance forward enough, but since I like the hit/play of ebony I figure why not do it both ways.

JW, I should probably refer to it as a "plug" rather than a core, sorry for the confusion.

Mike, I'll stop by Bear's booth for sure. His cues always intrigued me...thanks.

Jazz, I saw a pic of a sugartree joint pin facing, and I thought I saw a black core material. And btw...I'm still waiting for mine.

-Roger
 
buddha162 said:
Thank you all for the advice...

Jerry, I know that plugging the back end with maple might be sufficient to move the balance forward enough, but since I like the hit/play of ebony I figure why not do it both ways.

JW, I should probably refer to it as a "plug" rather than a core, sorry for the confusion.

Mike, I'll stop by Bear's booth for sure. His cues always intrigued me...thanks.

Jazz, I saw a pic of a sugartree joint pin facing, and I thought I saw a black core material. And btw...I'm still waiting for mine.

-Roger

My personal playing Q has a 2 1/2" long, Cocobolo "plug", at the joint end. It gives a more solid hit than the Fiddleback Maple, that the forearm is made of. I think if you persue what you purpose, you will be pleased with the balance AND the hit...JER
 
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