Coring with a gun-drill with inserts

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have bumped in to a supplier of gun-shot drill with inserts at it's end. Since we earlier have discussed turning work with inserts for Alu I thought that I should ask if any one have tried this earlier ?

The reseller which I talked to (he was showing me the QCTP discussed in my other thread) said that doing work in a lathe with Alu inserts on Wood/Pom (Delrin) would not wear out the inserts in a looooong time, so I got the idea that a "Shark-drill" with a insert to cut Alu at the end would be a good thing.

The cool thing is that we could then core with different diameters depending on the wood without having to buy a new drill.

One I looked at had a diameter which could be in the range of 11,1-12,95mm and a max length of 290mm

Air cooling would of course be supplied.

Any thought on this?

Kent
 
Newton said:
I have bumped in to a supplier of gun-shot drill with inserts at it's end. Since we earlier have discussed turning work with inserts for Alu I thought that I should ask if any one have tried this earlier ?

The reseller which I talked to (he was showing me the QCTP discussed in my other thread) said that doing work in a lathe with Alu inserts on Wood/Pom (Delrin) would not wear out the inserts in a looooong time, so I got the idea that a "Shark-drill" with a insert to cut Alu at the end would be a good thing.

The cool thing is that we could then core with different diameters depending on the wood without having to buy a new drill.

One I looked at had a diameter which could be in the range of 11,1-12,95mm and a max length of 290mm

Air cooling would of course be supplied.

Any thought on this?

Kent
Click to expand...

I really am having trouble conceiving just what this drill would loo like and how it would work. A gun drill works so well because it is a type of spade drill so that there is a large open area for shavings removal. Shavings are the main reason that most bits do not drill straight. The oil, or in our case, air, blows the shavings back out through this large cavity. The drills head is slightly over half the circumference of the bore and is what guides the drill. The actual front of the drill does the boring. I can't in my mind, see the concept of this drill to be able to drill different sizes and still fit the bored hole so that it runs straight and true. I would love to see a picture so that I could understand the principle better.

When I ordered my gun drill they said that they would shape the carbide at the proper angle to cut would rather than metal and it makes a very clean hole. I've bored hundreds of holes and have never sent back for resharpening. It may need sharpening but I can't tell.

By the way, those aluminum cutting inserts are the nut. Wood just peels off in ribbons and leaves a very smooth surface, especially when facing.

Dick
 
Last edited:
rhncue said:
By the way, those aluminum cutting inserts are the nut. Wood just peels off in ribbons and leaves a very smooth surface, especially when facing.

Dick
Click to expand...
K, I'll bite Dick.
Where do you get them?:)
 
Sorry late reply here..

I did of course leave the thick catalog at work but thank's to John we have it online :thumbup:

Yupp, these are the ones I found and they look like any normal gun-drill but has inserts which could be changed according to the material we like to use them for.

As I stated in the first post, the range of diameters is limited and we do not speak about large differences but my point was that we could at least change the inserts do some tweaking. And then I don't need to buy a diamond wheel or anything to keep them sharp.

EDIT: Page 17 is the one I looked at :)
Thank's RocketQ.

What do you think, any good?

I'm able to have these customized and they are German "fainsmeckers" if I'm not mistaking.

Kent
 
Last edited:
They would work the same, as I have used then alot in the past on steel, the big diff is you are going to have to have the cardide inserts custom ground, as they will not have the correct geometry on them
 
almarktool said:
They would work the same, as I have used then alot in the past on steel, the big diff is you are going to have to have the cardide inserts custom ground, as they will not have the correct geometry on them
Click to expand...

I do understand that the carbide insert would be hard to use on wood (hence custom ground) but how about the polished inserts which is ultra sharp used for aluminum?

I have talked to several end mill manufacturers (well, resellers locally) which says that endmills made for Alu would work fine on wood since they are sharp and has the correct angle? Could be just a "sales man - push goods" type of advice :confused:

Kent
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top