Cracked OB ferrule an shaft
- Thread starter krlk
- Start date
Did you contact Shane? He responded to you earlier in the thread.
I asked that earlier and had no response. Dont think he even seen it.
First LD shaft that was developed from all I know about them was the Predator one in 1995.
It would be tough for the "legends before us" to use a non-existant product.
Besides, who would actually listn 2 smone that tipes lik dis? If you are trying to sell crack, it's a good thing, if you are trying to make an educated point about something, nope.
I have not received any response or contact from krlk at this time. With situations like this, all we can do is extend the olive branch, if someone chooses to not accept it then there is not much we can do unfortunately.
Not to derail the thread but OB has to have some of the best customer service in the industry. Thanks for hanging around here
From the looks of that tip and ferrule and shaft with the close up someone posted, looks like that shaft was hit pretty hard off center and just bent and cracked. I don't see this happening under normal use. Maybe if you hit as hard as you can for months and eventually miscue and smash the thing on the slate or something. I can see someone breaking with it, miscuing and forcing the shaft into the slate like Sigel liked to do (minus the miscue that is LOL).
I see this.
Miscue on a hard hit cracks the ferrule and gouges that chunk out of the tip (or maybe he hit the side of the table or something), follow through to table bends the shaft and cracks it in a different spot. Cracks do not align because they were caused by different forces not as one going through the ferrule to shaft.
Not to derail the thread but OB has to have some of the best customer service in the industry. Thanks for hanging around here
No apology necessary and thank you!
Several OB Team members are on AZ on a daily basis. Some post and some lurk. We see great value in the AZ community and appreciate the feedback (both positive and negative) that we receive on our products and our service. You guys are our customers and if we don't listen to you and communicate with you then how can we ever expect to get better?
Possible, but I think a simpler explanation is that glue is stronger than wood. You can experience that with something as simple as Elmer's Wood Glue: glue two pieces of wood together along their grain and then try to split them apart. The "split" will occur within one of the wood pieces, not at the glue joint.
Every piece of wood has areas that are stronger than weaker areas adjacent to them. The impact force will travel through the wood until it finds an area weak enough to split. But the glue joint is stronger than the wood's strongest area.
Yes, but not till next year. We will start offering them either at the Super Billiards Expo or the BCAPL event. It will most likely be one of those.
I'm thinking you're correct. If you look closely at the crack, you can see that forces opened the existing crack, and worked their way into the weakest part of the shaft behind the ferrule, which happened to be the wood between two glue lines. (I.e. glue being stronger than wood.)
You can see the corresponding "lifts" (distortions) in the ferrule in the pic below.
Good eye, hang-the-9.
-Sean
Attachments
Last edited:
I'm guessing the shaft was already cracked before the ferrule cracked, but dirt, chalk, etc.. filled the crack, making it unnoticeable. Then, when a decent force, off-center hit was applied, one side of the shaft 'held', and the other 'gave way', resulting in the ferrule cracking off-center to the crack in the shaft. Once that hit happemed, the crack in the shaft widened enough to be more pronounced and visible.
take that ferrule off, put some glue in the crack and compress it. Put a new ferrule on and sand off the excess glue. I bet the shaft plays as good as new and no one knows the difference.
with today's adhesives the bond is probably going to be stronger than the fibers are naturally.
John:
The problem (challenge?) with this is how to get glue precisely into that crack. Dale (pdcue) mentioned using a needle (hypodermic), and the challenge will be to get that glue all the way into the bottom of that crack (even to parts that have separated, but the gap isn't large enough for you to see). The glue would have to be motile (runny), but you don't want the glue to run inside the hollow portion of the OB Classic shaft. (If that excess glue were to break away, you'd have little bits shaking around inside the hollow, giving a really odd sound during the hit.)
And even if the crack were glued, the problem is then the fact that the wood surrounding the crack has been stressed (to the point of fracture), and you have an additional glue line there that wasn't part of the original design. So you'd have a weak/strong/weak sandwich.
I would think the hit of that cue would never be the same. Don't get me wrong; I'm crazy enough to try something like this, but I wouldn't have high expectations either. If it were me, I'd work with OB to get a replacement, if that were an option.
-Sean