Cracked shaft repair question

[PDX]

I picked up an old Helmstetter(Julio Stamboulini) for cheap and in the dark, so I did not see the crack. I picked up some thin CA that I figure will wick in when the crack is opened up.

A)Should I use the screw to open the crack, if so, does it need some sort of protectant on the screw to keep the CA off of it?

B)Should I open the crack with leverage and let the CA wick in so nothing gets on the screw?

C) The CA, which is satellite city thin, will wick in the crack with out spreading it.


I realize I will need to tap the threads afterwards.

Thanks.

Pin not threaded in

Pin threaded in.

.

 

[Dave38]

I am assuming by the pictures you took the collar off? First, Ca is NOT the glue to use. a thin epoxy like west system is in order. Soak it thru the complete length of the crack, wait and soak it more.....as much as needed, then wipe the excess, then using a clamp, clamp down on the two sides of the crack and let sit for 24 hrs. Then drill, retap etc. After you put a collar back on. Should be good to go after that

 

[Ssonerai]

What Dave said.
You can use rubber to clamp it. Live rubber, surgical tube, strips cut from inner tubes (remember those??? ), strips from Yoga bands, etc.
There will be squeeze out all over to clean up later. If you actually use innertube, it will leave black all over, but that will clean up as the glue is scraped off.

The alternative is some wooden Vee blocks to clamp over with c-clamps Just put plastic sheet between the blocks and the cue so stray glue does not stick them on. That method makes it easier to control glue squeeze-out at the crack area. I personally want to see a thin ridge of squeeze-out, and leave it harden to be sure of full crack fill even after absorbtion during the setting period.

smt

 

[Michael Webb]

After it's epoxied, why not make an insert for it as added protection?