Tons'O'fun
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"Cue Cube" vs. "Willard's Shaper"
- Thread starter Tons'O'fun
- Start date
I have the ultimate tip tool (of which the tip shaper is close to the configuration of the cube) which I think is a nice tool to use for tip shaping, and does the job faster compared to willard. I just use the willard when i forget to bring my tip tool. hope this helps.
Cue Cube
I think Cue Cube changed the way they glue the grit in. They wear out very fast. I think the best tool that will last the longest is a Brad. I have one that is about 10 years old and is still in the same shape as when I got it. It can be used to shape with or you can roll it across your tip to fluff it up. It is very rough so you will wear your tip out quickly if you shape with it alot. It is by far the best tool out there. Sell for about $12 to $15.
I think Cue Cube changed the way they glue the grit in. They wear out very fast. I think the best tool that will last the longest is a Brad. I have one that is about 10 years old and is still in the same shape as when I got it. It can be used to shape with or you can roll it across your tip to fluff it up. It is very rough so you will wear your tip out quickly if you shape with it alot. It is by far the best tool out there. Sell for about $12 to $15.
Tons'O'fun said:For maintaining my tips radius I've been using a Willard's nickel shaper. I've heard the "Cue Cube" works better, any thoughts from people who have owned/used both tools.
BTW - I install my own undomed tips and use the willard to create the radius. Just looking for a faster abbrasive type shaper since I don't like shapers with a blade.
Thanks for any input.
Neither, a piece of sand paper held in you hand and cupped with your thumb and fingers then gently shape the tip exactly the way you like it. Most of those tools to me are just silly. I should add, I like cloth backed sand paper (of course not really sand paper I guess) for tips.
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Yeah those things wear out quickly, especially trying to shape the entire tip in with them. I use to have a box with a bunch of both types that were burnt up like that. I still keep a willard around to use the radius gauge sometimes, but shape My tips on the lathe. The ultimate tool we had used paper inserts/refills I believe, We have an old one that never gets used anymore, even had someone give us a new one last x-mas, and I don't even think It's been out the package yet, so that's how little we use them now.
Sometimes you can kind of press a piece of paper in them when the grit wears out, and use them after if you have to, but I don't use them anymore. There's one with a razor in It also I believe, seems like My father liked that one when we still hand tipped cues. We also used a porper big shaver, when we hand tipped.
Greg
Sometimes you can kind of press a piece of paper in them when the grit wears out, and use them after if you have to, but I don't use them anymore. There's one with a razor in It also I believe, seems like My father liked that one when we still hand tipped cues. We also used a porper big shaver, when we hand tipped.
Greg
i sell both the williards and the cube as well as the brad and ultimate. the cube is horrible. it wears out way to quickly and doesn't do a great job even new.
i use the brad when i'm working on the lathe sometimes but for the most part use sand paper.
if you're looking for a shaper to carry with you rather than while doing cue work, i like both the williards and the ultimate. the williards is a little bit less expensive and i don't use half the features of the ultimate, so i'd say i prefer the williards. the brad is good to, but it is VERY rough and you have to eyeball the shape where the other two you can spin the cue and go.
hope that helps.
-chris
i use the brad when i'm working on the lathe sometimes but for the most part use sand paper.
if you're looking for a shaper to carry with you rather than while doing cue work, i like both the williards and the ultimate. the williards is a little bit less expensive and i don't use half the features of the ultimate, so i'd say i prefer the williards. the brad is good to, but it is VERY rough and you have to eyeball the shape where the other two you can spin the cue and go.
hope that helps.
-chris
rhncue said:
LOL, I'm with you there, would'nt have any work if it were'nt for those cue sharpeners. keeps em coming back.
Guess I'm lucky, I've been using the same tip for over a year and 1/2 on one of my personal shafts, and have'nt once hit the tip with anything but a tip-pik on a few occasions. Have'nt even had It on the lathe except to freshen up the shaft. They don't even play well, till they get shiny, and won't hold chalk. Especially the hard/quick moori I shoot with
But to be honest, there was a day when I sharpened a few tips on down, because I would miscue really bad if I did'nt. That's how I learned to put tips on in the beginning
. Could'nt afford to keep having new ones put on, at the rate I went through them. Plus I liked trying different tips out, before I settled with a few I liked.Greg
Tons'O'fun said:I don't "grind my tips away" thank-you very much. Maybe you should scroll back to the top and read my initial post.
As written above, I install all my own cuetips. The tips arrive with no radius, the Willard tip tool does a very good job applying this radius. Once I have installed, trimmed and shaped my tip, I leave it alone. On average, I get 1-2 years for each tip which I consider very respectable since I play 15+ hours a week.
So, what tip tool would you recommend to someone who doesn't own a lathe or have access to anyone with a lathe?. Why not offer an actual idea rather than trying to be cute and witty?.
We don't all live in major cities with a lathe around every corner. Some of us have to make do with what we have access to. Thanks for the valuable input though.
I don't believe that was directed toward you personally, always comes up when these tools are mentioned.
Your already using a couple of the tools that others have used. Just have to do the best with what you have, unless you want to spend more on a lathe or better hand tipping tools.
I mentioned before, that I used a porper big or little shaver (which ever it's called), a tenon grinding machine, and wood lathe, before obtaining a cue lathe, and others have mentioned using the other block type tip tool that cost alot more to purchase then Mine did. In addition I also used the tools mentioned here, and what ever I could get My hands on to do a better job.
I know of nothing I have bought that trimmed tips close enough to perfection for Me, without doing damage, except for a lathe and good ol utility knife, something I don't recomend because It can be dangerous. Maybe someone else has found something, but not me. Also Sanding them down will taper your ferrule over time if not carefull.
I hand tipped for years, and can honestly tell you, that from My experience, nothing has done the job I can do with what I use now. Just have to figure out what will get you by, and how to best use what you can aquire.
Wish I could be of more help, but I took the hard road Myself.
Greg
Tons'O'fun said:I don't "grind my tips away" thank-you very much. Maybe you should scroll back to the top and read my initial post.
As written above, I install all my own cuetips. The tips arrive with no radius, the Willard tip tool does a very good job applying this radius. Once I have installed, trimmed and shaped my tip, I leave it alone. On average, I get 1-2 years for each tip which I consider very respectable since I play 15+ hours a week.
So, what tip tool would you recommend to someone who doesn't own a lathe or have access to anyone with a lathe?. Why not offer an actual idea rather than trying to be cute and witty?.
We don't all live in major cities with a lathe around every corner. Some of us have to make do with what we have access to. Thanks for the valuable input though.
I did read your post, did you? You said you use a Willard to maintain your tip and your asking if a cube is faster. I stand by my reply. If you put on a good tip it never needs reshaped or maintaned. Other than using a tip pick, maybe once a month on the very outside perimeter of the tip and then very lightly, nothing touches my tip other than chalk. I've now had a Moori on for well over a year and still has life left. If your using undomed tips the initial shape can be formed using 120 grit stiff sandpaper rolled into a radius very quickly.
As far as no lathe, a variable speed 3/8 drill clamped to a table will work quite nicely but I'm sure you've thought of that.
Dick
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rhncue said:
I used My wood lathe, I put a 1MT arbor with a drill chuck mounted on it in the headstock to hold mandrels, used My hand as a steady rest ( another thing I don't recomend because it's dangerous if a shaft gets loose on you) and rounded with a piece of sanding belt or canvas backed paper. I still do that sometimes if My concave shines the tip up too much after cleaning & sealing the shaft, just to touch the glaze up. I don't like to stick the shaft back through the headstock after polishing the shaft. If someone had a steady rest for this and collets made to fit, then would make things nicer, and more precise, and could use many things for a drive. I've seen mandrels that fit directly on a motor (another dangerous senerio), drill motors, and wood lathes like that. Might even be able to use a blade to shape with the right setup, if the steady is nice and tight, and centers the shaft well.
Still no match for working a tip out of a headstock though. Alot easier to keep the runnout at a minimum.