Dots in butt on 2 sides only. Joint screw 5/16x18 brass
Any idea what this is?
Any idea what this is?
Interesting. What would it be doing in the blue book if it's an Asian import? Just wondering. Anything could be the case here, including a replacement shaft.Found a simular Forearm on page 26 of the 1st Edition blue book. I got all 3 books. The search is on.
This cues origin, definately has me stumped. As well as the people who have more knowledge than me. On here and off line too. But my policy is and always has been, try to find out the maker before I start to restore it and bring it up to date as far as certain construction techniques.Interesting. What would it be doing in the blue book if it's an Asian import? Just wondering. Anything could be the case here, including a replacement shaft.
Linen looks very good for an Asian import.
All the best,
WW
The points are pretty tight at the bottom.Hay Mike.
The space between the points seems too wide for old Helmstetters.
Your great,
Nick![]()
Agree with you, just based on pictures, which are often hard to tell. All those other aspects are consistent with an older cue, loose connections here and there.This cues origin, definitely has me stumped. As well as the people who have more knowledge than me. On here and off line too. But my policy is and always has been, try to find out the maker before I start to restore it and bring it up to date as far as certain construction techniques.
This was the bolt at the -A- joint. There was no tenon there, just a flat faced connection with the buzz and clicking that went with it. Not really uncommon for some older cues. With the customers permission, I went forward on it's repair. Loose joint and joint screw. Loose butt cap. Warped handle and butt bottom.
Fun stuff.
There's absolutely no space between the points at the base of the veneers. Not sure what you're looking at. The blank could have started out as a full splice and cut to make an A joint.Hay Mike.
The space between the points seems too wide for old Helmstetters.
Your great,
Nick![]()
I trashed the wrap. It was done by someone else. Lots of spaces.Agree with you, just based on pictures, which are often hard to tell. All those other aspects are consistent with an older cue, loose connections here and there.
If you're restoring it, the one thing I would not do is replace the linen. It looks very good, and I think some people may be fooled here. Although your customer may want it replaced.
All the best,
WW
I agree. I think it might have been a full splice too. To bad the center hole was off.There's absolutely no space between the points at the base of the veneers. Not sure what you're looking at. The blank could have started out as a full splice and cut to make an A joint.
Don't remember those cheap Asian cues with points so close at the wrap, probably full splice starts. Could be anything. If it's a cheap Asian cue, who would want it restored? Clues, clues...what did it look like under the bumper? I’m going with 80’s Taiwanese. The quality looks similar to old Orchid, Steve Mizerak, Cobra, etc…. Probably Kao-Kao.
Paging ChopDoc!!
Some do, some don’t.Don't remember those cheap Asian cues with points so close at the wrap, probably full splice starts. Could be anything. If it's a cheap Asian cue, who would want it restored? Clues, clues...
None of those look anything like the cue Michael Webb is restoring. No signature, wrong buttplate, wrong bumper, wrong points, wrong joint rings, wrong everything. I'm willing to bet these didn't come with a brass joint pin.Some do, some don’t.
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