If I am writing a cue maker about a cue or assembling a pre made blank, what is the correct way to ask that the cue have a certain profile. Or does the cue get the profile the cue maker chooses?
Cue profile.
- Thread starter YubaCushion
- Start date
Some cuemakers, myself included, make their cues to their own profile, while others will make them to the customers specs. Depends on their setup, and what they feel is right for their cues. I myself, have a set taper for the butt, and a set taper for the shaft which I like, and don't like to move it, as I use a manual taper bar system. If and when I finally get my CNC machine going, then that will change, as then it's just a matter of calling up a program rather than a lot of time spent adjusting before and after for multiple cuts over a long period.
The best way is to just come out and ask them, "I would like the cue to be this at the joint, this at the butt, and these specs for the shaft, can you do that"?
Good Luc with the build,
Dave
The best way is to just come out and ask them, "I would like the cue to be this at the joint, this at the butt, and these specs for the shaft, can you do that"?
Good Luc with the build,
Dave
That's what I thought. But wasn't sure. I know cue makers are busy, so I keep things short and to the point when I write. I mentioned the make of cue instead of the dimensions and the emails stopped or they were to busy.
While on a certain level, Steve is correct in that "you should be able to get what ever you want,"
you won't get 'what ever you want' from every builder. There are 'builders' and there are 'CUSTOM builders'.
Typically, 'builders' build what they what. 'Custom-builders' build what YOU want. That's the definition of 'custom'.
Some builders, like myself, don't take orders to build cues (custom-built). I don't build 'custom'.
Others have built their practice on building 'what ever' the client wants. These are the CUSTOM CUE MAKERS.
You speak of wanting a certain or 'custom' profile on the cue. My first thoughts are that you mean 'taper'.
Most any builder can adjust a taper for you unless you want say, a 'compound-taper', ie, Southwest.
My suggestion is that you talk to a custom-builder and have your jnt & butt numbers at the ready.
Custom-builders are usually good listeners. The key is to know what you want, as close to exact as possible.
The middle of a build is not a good time to start guessing or changing your mind.
If I'm understanding correctly, you asked xyz cuemaker to build you a Southwest and the e-mails stopped. Understandably so
Some things are a matter of integrity even among custom builders. I would not do it.Mario
If I'm understanding correctly, you asked xyz cuemaker to build you a Southwest and the e-mails stopped. Understandably so
Mario
Not exactly. What I asked for was a shallow taper in the butt and handle section This design is not exclusive to Southwest. It's common in a number of cues, from house cues to older 20 oz cues from rRchard rlack and Joss west. Some older Schons have this style although they have a slim style handle. Mike Bender does and Jerry R. as well. The most commonly recognized name is Southwest and that's what I used as a reference to keep the email short.
Sounds easy enough. So long as it's not a curved taper.
The "shallowest" taper imo would. 010" per inch.
Get a caliper and caliper the handle you want replicated.
I checked on a cue I have and it was 1.25 at the but end and 3.75 up it was 1.19.
If it was slightly less it would be what I would want. So the .01 per inch is about right.
That would go to where the c ring would be. What is that area called on a full splice?
From there to a .830 joint.
That's actually a steep taper at .016" per inch.
The average or most popular taper is about .014" per inch from joint to the bottom.
C ring meaning the bottom of the handle?
The joint size really has very little to do with the handle taper unless the butt has one angle or has a curved taper.
Sounds like the handle you have is really a fat taper. It has mislead you for a long time somehow. If that is a SW, it has a curved taper . Thin at the joint, and relatively thin bottom but very fat in the middle. Kinda like Brutus.
A slim/shallow taper would be 1.250" at the bottom and 1.190" 5 inches up.
That's why I don't really take description from people. I tell them to use a caliper. Even the pro players have been shown to have a wrong impression about their cues' specs. That includes weight, taper and tip diameter.
That's actually a steep taper at .016" per inch.
The average or most popular taper is about .014" per inch from joint to the bottom.
C ring meaning the bottom of the handle?
The joint size really has very little to do with the handle taper unless the butt has one angle or has a curved taper.
Sounds like the handle you have is really a fat taper. It has mislead you for a long time somehow. If that is a SW, it has a curved taper . Thin at the joint, and relatively thin bottom but very fat in the middle. Kinda like Brutus.
A slim/shallow taper would be 1.250" at the bottom and 1.190" 5 inches up.
That's why I don't really take description from people. I tell them to use a caliper. Even the pro players have been shown to have a wrong impression about their cues' specs. That includes weight, taper and tip diameter.
That cue was a bad example. Your right, I need exact dimensions. not dimensions I think I want. I'll use those when asking. Thank you, that helped.
One taper from the joint to the front of the handle, and another from the front of the handle to the but. What would that taper be called?
Dual taper.
